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Am I anal retentive or what?
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MargaritaVillain
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:20 am    Post subject: Am I anal retentive or what? Reply with quote

Ok, so I am correcting the interior on my Oval and have ordered the plastic parts like collars and knobs of all kinds from different places. I got some from Brezelwerks and some from WW and some from random sellers here on the Samba. My problem is this, the ivory on each one is a little different in shade between the different knobs. Some match, like the ones ones I bought from the same source. Mostly though, they don't match the others from other suppliers. So, were the knobs originally different shades of ivory, or were they all the same? Is there a source to get all the knobs (dash, seats etc.) that the coloring is the same or is there a way to paint them so they all match? I thought about a plastic adhering rattle can paint but I want them to look right and not peel. Any suggestions?
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understand WW sells rattlecan versions of the original colors. Rough them up a bit with sandpaper, use a plastic friendly primer, then go to town. I'm almost through restoring my steering wheel, but it will stay in primer until the rest of the car goes to paint, at which point all interior goodies will be given a healthy dose of the same color/brand/type of paint so that everything looks correct and matches. It sounds like you might be in a similar situation.
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Russ
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

your not crazy.
i had mine all sprayed to match in the end because most were different colours
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rkilbury
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: Am I anal retentive or what? Reply with quote

MargaritaVillain wrote:
Ok, so I am correcting the interior on my Oval and have ordered the plastic parts like collars and knobs of all kinds from different places. I got some from Brezelwerks and some from WW and some from random sellers here on the Samba. My problem is this, the ivory on each one is a little different in shade between the different knobs. Some match, like the ones ones I bought from the same source. Mostly though, they don't match the others from other suppliers. So, were the knobs originally different shades of ivory, or were they all the same? Is there a source to get all the knobs (dash, seats etc.) that the coloring is the same or is there a way to paint them so they all match? I thought about a plastic adhering rattle can paint but I want them to look right and not peel. Any suggestions?
i matched my 54 vert ivory color and had a paint shop put it in spray cans for me. i painted my seat frames very carefully and my steering colum, ebrake, and a few small parts. i matched it from an o. g. knob. i may still have a few cans left. it is good quality acrylic enamel. i sold a few cans for $25 each. if interested email or call 954 3479648 rick
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Alika
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have them all sprayed professionaly. It's a night and day difference from rattle can.
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Soul Built
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alika wrote:
Have them all sprayed professionaly. It's a night and day difference from rattle can.


Whats the difference if it is done right?
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johnshenry Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are differences in shade between original ivory parts. I have a whole bag of original collars and you can see the difference. And of course some change shade with wear, UV exposure, etc.

Rattle can jobs work good for things that don't get touched. But knobs, and even collars, you don't want to do that. If you are going to spray, best to get those sprayed with a primer and a good urethane paint.

Me, I'd just keep fishing for original ones in good shape that aren't too far off from each other. "Same door" items should be matched, dash to door, you won't notice as much.

And yes, you are anal retentive.............. Laughing
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Yustrn
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Krylon Almond= Show Quality!

Cool
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Alika
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Consistency / Gloss level.
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Anchovy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
There are differences in shade between original ivory parts. I have a whole bag of original collars and you can see the difference. And of course some change shade with wear, UV exposure, etc.

Rattle can jobs work good for things that don't get touched. But knobs, and even collars, you don't want to do that. If you are going to spray, best to get those sprayed with a primer and a good urethane paint.

Me, I'd just keep fishing for original ones in good shape that aren't too far off from each other. "Same door" items should be matched, dash to door, you won't notice as much.

And yes, you are anal retentive.............. Laughing


Go with johnshenry's advice. Use the reproductions to fill the gap while you look for originals. Paint the reproductions for now if you just can't stand it.
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Brezelwerks
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually do offer every oval era knob that was ever available, just not all of them are advertised. I usually produce them by request for the higher end restos that desire matching factory quality or better finish.

The WW asian made variety quality varies alot, some are incorrect, and not all of what were originally used are available. Painting is an option but that tends to make knobs look bloated (whether it be urethane or enamel), usually way too much detail gets lost even when painted by the best. Hunting down all matching color originals works on paper, but from experience seldom have I seen anyone collect them all that actually match, maybe just try to get as close as you can.

Probably just time I get these posted up, likely after we work through some backlog here after the new year, along with a number of new items that have been waiting to be posted. Those interested in ballpark pricing should see our 356 knobs ad, prices should parallel those pretty well for similar applications.
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MODIFIER
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you use a mr clean magic eraser on those knobs you will fall over at the difference it will make.
They will turn out beautiful as long as the plastc hasn started layering.
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1low55vw
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a buffing wheel on a grinder or buffing motor and carefully buff them with aluminum or finer buffing compound.
I did all of mine and they all turned out very nice. All the same color.

Just an idea Idea
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aa390392
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

since no 1 answered you ..yea your Anal! Laughing
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MargaritaVillain
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aa390392 wrote:
since no 1 answered you ..yea your Anal! Laughing


I think John beat you to that answer on here and my wife beat all of you guys to it years ago. At least I can see I am not the only one who would be bothered by nonmatching knobs. Wink
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johnshenry Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1low55vw wrote:
Put a buffing wheel on a grinder or buffing motor and carefully buff them with aluminum or finer buffing compound.
I did all of mine and they all turned out very nice. All the same color.

Just an idea Idea


Actually, that is good advice, and really should be tried first on original knobs. Very often the variances and shade differences are due to aging of the fine outer surfaces. I have seen old knobs come amazingly to life on a buffing wheel, a little windex afterward to clean off the buffing compound. Get yourself a nice long M5 bolt to spin them onto, for those that have threaded bosses.
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