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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:13 pm    Post subject: Too much thread Reply with quote

I searched, used different (this AND thats) but found nothing like this. I have too much thread between the rockers and valves. The scoop, new lifters,new pushrods,new adjusting screws,new heads from CBP. New Engle W100. 1600dp. I thought elephant foot or swivel foot adjusters may take up the slack. The local ACVW guru (whom I don't now well but comes very well recommended) said to just use lash caps. He's the Doc. and I'm looking for 2nd opinions.
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This is #4, I did #1 first and it looks the same. I did not adjust 2,3. And please no comments that the head/case bolt is touching the rocker. That situation has been rectified and was not cause of the issue at hand. Thanx for any input.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pushrods are to short.... Lash caps help but not real answer..... Who did valve train geometry check before deciding pushrod length?



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Jimmy111
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Dale said.
If all of them are like that it is definitly the pushrods are too short.
If only one or 2 valve problems.
If all short on one side, bad line bore or someone decked the case wrong.
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dan97019
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it were me I would put elephant foot adjusters in there and see how it works out providing you have the same clearance issue with all the valves anyway.
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No geometry check. ( I know, I've read the thread ) CBP said ( I know I ASSumed )they are stock this that and the other thing. It's not a HI,PO motor so I didn't want to mess with cutting pushrods to length.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you use a little thought and diligence there absolutely no reason to fear or worry about cutting pushrods to length...... Have done 6-7 sets and no issues ... It just takes diligence to get and keep length of all 8 correct during process.......

As someone else said "swivel" feet adjusters.....

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you get lashcaps, or put in courier/911 adjusters the PUSHRODS ARE STILL TOO SHORT.

It may not matter if it's a grenade engine, that would have blown up before the valve guides wore out (from bad geometry). But it's your engine.

A hack would put in lash caps/911/courier adjusters. A mechanic would put the correct length pushrods in, and MAYBE also put in the lash caps/911/courier adjusters.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonder what his deck height is and head CC's? I mean come on, longer pushrods aside what's the real deal???? Confused
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet; I did not write down the deck height. I have Tom Wilson's book. I measured the deck height per his instructions 3X. I used a medicine dropper with rubbing alchohol,3X. Using CBP's calculator I came up with 8.6:1 if I remember right. I put .030 shims? to bring down to 8.0:1+-. Someone I deal with said "cheap lifters, probably plunged to deep". I think I'll study the geometry thread and buy some cut-to-lenght push rods. My fear of those has been not being able to cut the ends perfectly square to fit the ends.I have very little spare time to make this build thus my poor memory.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

babysnakes wrote:
keifernet; I did not write down the deck height. I have Tom Wilson's book. I measured the deck height per his instructions 3X. I used a medicine dropper with rubbing alchohol,3X. Using CBP's calculator I came up with 8.6:1 if I remember right. I put .030 shims? to bring down to 8.0:1+-. Someone I deal with said "cheap lifters, probably plunged to deep". I think I'll study the geometry thread and buy some cut-to-lenght push rods. My fear of those has been not being able to cut the ends perfectly square to fit the ends.I have very little spare time to make this build thus my poor memory.


Okay, I am sure that correct length push rods will help, my concern was that you have way too LOW of compression due to using shims/thicker deck shims under the cyls than you really needed too is all...
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stealth67vw
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another must is using solid rocker shafts. An Engle W100 is fairly mild, but it will still break the wavy washers and spring clips on the stock rocker assemblies.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

why not take one of your pushrods and compare it to a stock pushrod length. Maybe the new pushrods all were built too short.

Was the cam a new cam or a reground cam?
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Allrighty then. I just ordered cut to length push rods.
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Merlin, you hit it on the nose.

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I set the #1 exhaust valve to 1/2 lift using an old pushrod.

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Looks pretty good now. Not exactly parallel but close.

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So wadda ya think? Is it a go if I get exactly same lenght new rods?
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Chris Vellat
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me thinks you may have gotten some "40hp" pushrods...
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I honestly would not know from 40hp. I spoke to the person @ CBP, This is what they sent. I'll bring an old pushrod to a local shop for comparison, and make a purchase. It's not worth the time or effort to complain or demand correction.

Still looking for a go/no go on the geometry. Anxious
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

About valve train geometry....

http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/

http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetrain/HowToVerifyValvetrainGeometry.aspx

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/art...ables.html

GOOGLE search will turn up about a dozen sites all saying similar thing....

Dale
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dale M., Lots of help. Very Happy I think I've got it.

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#1 exhaust. Foot print is to high. A little off center. So, if the push rod was a tad longer, and I backed off the adjusting screw a bit it should lower the foot print. I'm going to make an adjustable rod tomorrow and play with the length. I already have the "cut to size" rods. This is very interesting, and I'll be using this knowledge on a stroker in the future if I get this right.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget you can shim under rocker arm support to change shaft height to change geometry... IF you do not have any shims try thin washers to setup... BUT get regular shims if you need them, WASHERS ARE NOT the solution.......

Dale
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dale, I tried a thin washer with the stock rods and it threw it out big time. So I surmised a longer rod and then maybe a shim. I've had help building a few motors MANY years ago, this is my 1st solo.
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