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Removing Ignition Lock Cylinder '87 - Explained
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davideric9
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:10 pm    Post subject: Removing Ignition Lock Cylinder '87 - Explained Reply with quote

This is how I rekeyed my vans to match so that I can use one key for both vans. Here is the how-to on removing the ignition lock.

Moderator note: All these threads are related:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=553954
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=419907
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=553863


Rekeying this lock is another story. The tumblers are NOT the same as in the doors. My ignition has 10 tumblers. With another spare ignition, I was able to match up 9 of the tumbler to my other key. I just left the 10 spot blank.

Bentley 94.4 gives the location of the drill hole, just make a template.
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Align the template with the ignition housing (according to Bentley)
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Mark the housing with a sharpie or...
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a pin or scribe if you have one.
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Getting the drill in the correct spot is a bit tricky
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Then do the drilling, gently as the material is only about 1/8 inch thick

Link


If you are in the correct spot you can see the spring metal retainer
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Removing the lock cylinder housing

Link


Removing the lock cylinder

Link

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1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX
1987 Westfalia
1988 Wolfsburg GL


Last edited by davideric9 on Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Belladonna30c
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow. thank you for your contribution...just the kind of posts w/pics I like!

I am sure this will be helpful for someone who wishes to give this a try.
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strawhouse
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing Job! I was going to tackle this over the holidays, Im glad I watched that first. Thanks Again!
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davideric9
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished rekeying all six locks in the van so now both vans use one key. If you need advice with any other locks, including the syncro gas cap, I can post.

BTW, before I began the rekeying, I did get an original key made from the lock code. It did make the process a lot easier and I wanted the tumblers to be exact and not close and no dremeling the off pins.


Feels good to have this done and eliminate the extra keys.
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1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX
1987 Westfalia
1988 Wolfsburg GL


Last edited by davideric9 on Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:43 am; edited 2 times in total
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the vids. Why would you rather leave a tumbler out than grind it down to fit correctly?
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davideric9
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could have ground down the last pin. I didn't do that because I was thinking I would get another correct pin from a spare ignition. Now that you mention this, I should have just added the pin and ground it down. All the doors have seven pins and the ignition had 10, so I figured it was secure enough as it is. I'll add the pin next time I am in there. enough for now.
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davideric9
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The old copy of a copy of a copy... would no longer open the rear hatch.

Old key on top, new lock code generated key on bottom, same van!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

amazing work David
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought this thread might be a good spot to post these images I found on a German site (sorry for the lack of attribution, I can't recall where I found them).

Whilst not about ignition locks, the pics are a handy guide for door locks

alistair

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camerahunter
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is great information. Too bad I didn't bother to look it up before destroying my ignition buy pounding and prying it most of the way apart.
So, I went to the junk yard and got a different one. My Van is an 85 and the replacement came out of an 87. I have the tumbler part out of the original that has all the little pins. The key is still in it and all the pins are in place. Does anyone know if I can just swap out this piece to change the keying?
It seems like it would work fine but after my first attempt I thought it best to ask for help.

Thank you,

David
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erdonline
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:51 am    Post subject: ignition lock cylinder Reply with quote

Sure, as long as you're replacing whatever you destroyed- the ignition lock cylinder, with all the wafers there, and the key as well, you should be all set.

Ed
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ed,

By looking at the thing before starting it seemed the best way to get it apart was to pound out the square shaped part on the side by using a wood block and driving out the steering lock post. That didn't get it all the way out so more pounding on the bottom of the key portion and broke off the piece that couples the key to the ignition switch. Somewhere in there the whole key piece with the wafer part pulled right out so I thought I had it whipped until I noticed a few metal pieces broken on the square part I pried/pounded out and the coupling piece.

I'm going to remove the replacement tumbler and try it.

Thank you,

David
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't want to re-key my van, but think I do need to replace the ignition switch. It's taking a few tries to get it started lately. Is drilling it out the only way? In looking at my Bentley, it's all I'm finding. Is this a common repair?
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camerahunter
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ignition switch is a different topic. This is the lock cylinder which I just had to do because my return spring was toast.
To do the switch you still take off the whole part on the column to expose a screw that holds it in place. It is a white piece that is coupled to the lock cylinder.
Just remove the screw, take out the switch, put in the new switch, screw in it place and put it all back together.

Thank you,

David
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just in case you need a visual, here's Ben's thread about the part you need to change.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=375383&highlight=change+ignition+switch

Thank you,

David
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

camerahunter wrote:
Just in case you need a visual, here's Ben's thread about the part you need to change.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=375383&highlight=change+ignition+switch

Thank you,

David


Thanks David! That's just what I was looking for. I've got 2 spares, and will put one in my next day off. So glad I won't be drilling any holes!-Colin
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surfinwesty
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you David and all of you who contributed to this thread Very Happy

I was recently loading my surf boards up when I went in to grab another board from the house and some Berkeley hippies took off with my only set of keys (made the mistake of leaving keys in the doors). The lock smith wanted $200 to make an identical duplicate replacement; however, thanks to you guys, I got a whole new ignition with key and switch for less than a steak diner Razz

Now I just have to figure out how to re-key the rest of the bus -Thanks again!
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did some searching and this is the closest thread I can find to ask this question. Cliff notes: I bought an 81 Vanagon out of a barn where it had been parked 5 years ago by an elderly gentleman. He had forgotten where the keys were so to get it out of the barn before the barn was torn down, it appears that someone broke the lock cylinder off. A good amount of the top part was missing and it would not come out. I used the Bentley to drill the hole and hit the spring area just fine but the switch was already partially broken off behind the spring so the spring did not release anything.

The remainder has been coming out in pieces. I am down to the point shown in the photo, that remaining part will rotate and depress slightly but not come out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I can get needle nose pliers on it and pull but no luck. I don't see where anything in the rotating part of the innards will align with the keyways in the inside of the lock cylinder insert.

I see a small roll pin in the center that I've been trying to work out, but it hasn't come free with a screwdriver or vibration. I can probably modify a pick to push it out if it will help.

What holds the outer part of the lock cylinder in place? Meaning, the part with the keyways that is surrounding all the guts that are coming out in pieces? I would think that should come out of the housing somehow but it hasn't yet.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I've gotten everything else to the put that I'm ready for a test fire and this is standing in my way.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two suggestions. One, get a new lock assembly so you can examine it closely as to how it fits etc. Second, go ahead and remove the bearing lock housing as in the pictures above. There is a small Philips screw that holds the electrical switch. With that removed, you might be able to drive the lock tumbler housing out while depressing the retaining clip at the same time.
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
Two suggestions. One, get a new lock assembly so you can examine it closely as to how it fits etc. Second, go ahead and remove the bearing lock housing as in the pictures above. There is a small Philips screw that holds the electrical switch. With that removed, you might be able to drive the lock tumbler housing out while depressing the retaining clip at the same time.


Thanks for the reply, I do have a replacement switch in hand to look at.

The retaining clip came out with the other guts of the switch, what is left in the photo is below the level of the clip. It rotates inside the housing but will not come out.

I have been trying to get the outer lock cylinder housing to come out thinking it may pull the remaining bits out but it will not release from the main casting that holds the lock cylinder.

I can remove the electrical switch as suggested and see if that helps.
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