Author |
Message |
zombiescustoms Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 88 Location: MD
|
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: Zombie's Customs 4" beam build |
|
|
I know this has been covered a lot but I wanted to do a step by step description of building a narrowed, lowered beam, with some tweeks from the standard off the shelf narrowed beams.
here we go:
beginning, bone stock, 5.5 inch chromies and 205/60 15 rears and 175/55 fronts
your standard 1964 king and link pin beam
wire wheeled to remove crud
marking for cuts to be made, I'll be cutting 4" but off set from the center
removing uprights
going under the blade
I'm not using the tubes supplied with the sway away style adjusters in stead I cut the beam off set from center and notched it using a 1/2" end mill
Notice how much longer I made the slot as compared to the off the shelf adjuster, this will give you more range of adjustment
adjuster pieces rotated to allow more drop
here is what the car look like all the way down with no dropped spindles
and yes it is just about on the buckets, spindles on the way!
I will have more pics of the beam once I take it out to do the shock towers
Last edited by zombiescustoms on Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jgowin Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2008 Posts: 289 Location: North GA
|
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Good ideal, I like the ideal of only cutting the beam once.
Last edited by Jgowin on Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
spectre6000 Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2009 Posts: 2014 Location: Broomfield, CO
|
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I think there might be a step or two missing for those of us who are new to the idea of beam narrowing. Why did you remove the part that goes between the beams and attaches to the frame head? Why remove the 4" off center? Are the adjustable parts sold separately? I've only ever seen them on finished beams. How did you narrow the torsion bars themselves? Sorry if any of these questions are beyond naivete, I've never seen this done before. _________________ Jason Hopper
-'58 German Market Deluxe Beetle (in progress)
-'84 M1009 CUCV
-'81 K10
"Buy the best, cry once." -Gene Berg
"A cheap man will always buy the cheapest thing available, and then buys another one hoping for a better result, and then spends the rest of his life in misery complaining about it. A thrifty man will buy a good part once and never think about it again." -RockCrusher
"Don't feed the Shitty Parts Monster!" -Me |
|
Back to top |
|
|
59eurobug Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2009 Posts: 316 Location: TX
|
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
spectre6000 wrote: |
I think there might be a step or two missing for those of us who are new to the idea of beam narrowing. Why did you remove the part that goes between the beams and attaches to the frame head? Why remove the 4" off center? Are the adjustable parts sold separately? I've only ever seen them on finished beams. How did you narrow the torsion bars themselves? Sorry if any of these questions are beyond naivete, I've never seen this done before. |
He removed the beam uprights, or framehead mounts so he could place them at the correct distance seeing that he narrowed the beam 4 inches, so then they'd be 4 inches closer to each other.
He removed the 4 inches off center so that when he welds it back together the weld is not right in the center of the beam where the adjuster is going to be. a weld there would not let the adjuster turn nor fit.
The adjusters are sold by themselves, look up "beam adjuster" on the classifieds here.
He didn't say how he narrowed the torsion springs but wht i do is zip tie them together and cut off half of my total narrow width from each end, then redimple them with a 90 degree bit 5/8" from the new end after i weld the springs together on the ends. _________________ May '58 Deluxe Beetle
March '59 Euro Beetle
May '99 Passat 1.8T
DRK |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiescustoms Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 88 Location: MD
|
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
59eurobug covered most of your questions, the adjuster parts are not sold separately, i just cut up a set with a cut off wheel, as for cutting the torsions, rap with duct tape or a zip tie and use a cut off wheel here too, I narrowed 4" so I took 2" off each end, another tip is to install the leaves in the beam before cutting them, they seem to slide in the arms better than they slide in the adjuster center after they are cut.
The reason the beam is cut off center is that I used the beam tube to mount the adjuster as opposed to the thinner (probably crap) tube that comes with the adjuster, this way there is only one seam to weld and it is all original German metal. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
iaccy Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2007 Posts: 1378 Location: CT
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jerry Hundley Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2006 Posts: 1181 Location: Chester, Va
|
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I really like the way you did the adjusters. The next one I do will be that way. Very cool _________________ Jerry Hundley (AKA Slammed 66)
Because Stock Sucks!!!!
70 baywindow deluxe
65 slammed bug
69 bug
64 drag buggy |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiescustoms Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 88 Location: MD
|
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
iaccy wrote: |
Are you still running shocks? did you have to modify the shock mounts to fit without hacking the body? And what about the steering gear box? How did you know where to weld that back on? Sorry to bombard you with questions. |
I just got some 1/4" cold rolled to make the shock towers, I'll take some pics tonight as I continue the build, i took careful measurements of all the component locations, steering box tabs, stabilizer mounts etc., to make sure they go back on in the correct locations, I'll be mounting the box and shortening the tie rods tonight also. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiescustoms Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 88 Location: MD
|
Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I was up till 1am working last night on tie rods and torsion dimples, the beam ended up in and out of the car twice and now just needs shock towers.
here are some pics:
I used the old sway bar to insert inside of the tie rods for strength
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
mdnick Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2006 Posts: 136 Location: Maryland
|
Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice work... you get worried about welding tie rod ends at all? _________________ -nick-
purists seem to think everyone should conform to their standards. i seem to remember a certain historical figure that believed the same thing. yet we called him a lunatic? weird. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ottvw Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2006 Posts: 928 Location: Auburn,WA
|
Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When doing the tie rods it's easier to cut off 4" off one side then retap the side you cut off. _________________ Save a tree eat a beaver |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
|
Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ottvw wrote: |
When doing the tie rods it's easier to cut off 4" off one side then retap the side you cut off. |
How is that easier then just taking a few inches out of the center and welding the ends back together? _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiescustoms Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 88 Location: MD
|
Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
Unless you have a 14mmx1.5 tap laying around, it is way easier to cut and weld, takes like 10 minutes, and its free, and the sway bar makes it more than strong enough. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5366 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
|
Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
67dub wrote: |
Good ideal, I like the ideal of only cutting the beam once. |
I agree.
Nice work! Nice car too.
I narrow my tie rods the same way as you did using a piece of sway bar as reinforcement.
_________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
LUNATIK Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2005 Posts: 309 Location: California
|
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
I'm going to tackle narrowing the beam of one of my VW's this weekend, I have never done this job before but it look very straight forward, but the only thing that I will need for someone to explain to me is the reposition of the damper; does you move the damper back or buy a short type steering damper?
Regards _________________ You cannot fight with STUPID people; becasue you have to get down to their level and they will beat you up with experience.
vwracerdave wrote: |
Be careful what you brag about because it may bite your ass in the end. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiescustoms Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 88 Location: MD
|
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
LUNATIK wrote: |
I'm going to tackle narrowing the beam of one of my VW's this weekend, I have never done this job before but it look very straight forward, but the only thing that I will need for someone to explain to me is the reposition of the damper; does you move the damper back or buy a short type steering damper?
Regards |
move the mount over half the amount narrowed, and remember measure everything before you start cutting or removing stuff, it makes it go much smoother! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
50ate Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2007 Posts: 1171 Location: Rainier/Olympia Washington
|
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ottvw wrote: |
When doing the tie rods it's easier to cut off 4" off one side then retap the side you cut off. |
NO way is it easier then cutting and welding them up |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|