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Where to get protective sheath for accelerator cable?
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

campingbox wrote:


I usually squirt some spray lube in there and uncrimp them with some pliers.....squeezing and turning to remove it. Cut the cable to size, reshape the end and install it. Recrimp it with some pliers. It's a piece of cake.


i will bring one to havasu. please demonstrate.
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campingbox Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
campingbox wrote:


I usually squirt some spray lube in there and uncrimp them with some pliers.....squeezing and turning to remove it. Cut the cable to size, reshape the end and install it. Recrimp it with some pliers. It's a piece of cake.


i will bring one to havasu. please demonstrate.


I'll stop by your place on my way South.
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also used a piece of fuel line. Did not know there was an actual tube for that. I am glad I put one on there, as the cable was already starting to saw into the case.

By the way, your freshly painted bus looks great!
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Stanagon
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the wire guide loop bolted to the tranny on my Nov. 1960 Mango. It looks original. There was no tube around the accelerator cable above the transmission. From what Lind posted, it sounds like the tube replaced the guide loop in 2/61, correct?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

arthurnugen wrote:
I also used a piece of fuel line. Did not know there was an actual tube for that. I am glad I put one on there, as the cable was already starting to saw into the case.

By the way, your freshly painted bus looks great!


Thank you. I need to take a few more pictures, especially of the long wall. It did turn out nice. Now every single chip and scuff in the original paint interior stands out like a sore thumb. I will touch it up.

I have gotten a couple pms from people who had late split buses who also had the plastic tube, not the bowden tube kind with metal ends. So I guess VW either used both types or moved from one type to the other. I would think that anything which protects the cable and the trans would work correctly in this application.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have both plastic and metal sheaths: same principal. The first 400k miles my tranny had no loop or sheath and eventually carved a slot into the innards. Being scared on my next case I got the loop off my '57 for the '65.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


During the last 300k miles I found an og one on a '65 and added it but tywrapped it to the loop. I know it's not supposed to be used together but the tyewraps keep it from coming off when I pull the engine and from sagging.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I like the metal ferrule type as they are like a fighter jet mid-air refueling reciever thing and they self guide onto the accelerator pipe at the shroud.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks for the photos.
Hey, is your clutch arm mounted wrong-way round?
Looks like the oblong area for the self locking adjuster wingnut is facing frontwards.
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bill may
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.pickens wrote:
BarryL wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks for the photos.
Hey, is your clutch arm mounted wrong-way round?
Looks like the oblong area for the self locking adjuster wingnut is facing frontwards.


yes it is backwards.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

with how annoying it is to change that arm and the dammed spring!!!!
Ugh I hate doing that repair. (trans throwout arm bushing/spring/c-clips, etc) grrrr.
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the engine bolt backwards as well? I see a half moon shape. That one's always a bear to get to. Is it easier to have the not on the engine side?
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cdennisg wrote:
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ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke!
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.pickens:
Quote:
Hey, is your clutch arm mounted wrong-way round?
Looks like the oblong area for the self locking adjuster wingnut is facing frontwards


bill may:
Quote:
yes it is backwards.


Dang, I feel a huge argument coming on and I just got over the flu; no, it's not on backwards. The other side has the detents, also, for the adjuster. The larger of the chamfered sides goes facing the bowden so the threaded rod has ample clearance for alignment when swinging. The smaller chamfer side allows less fulrum surface for a frictionless pivot. Both are necessary for long cable life.

arthurnugen:
Quote:
Is the engine bolt backwards as well? I see a half moon shape. That one's always a bear to get to. Is it easier to have the not on the engine side?


That's the way I do that one. Tape it to the bell housing, push in the engine carefully, gently thread on the nut and bing-bang-boom.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:

Dang, I feel a huge argument coming on and I just got over the flu; no, it's not on backwards. The other side has the detents, also, for the adjuster. The larger of the chamfered sides goes facing the bowden so the threaded rod has ample clearance for alignment when swinging. The smaller chamfer side allows less fulrum surface for a frictionless pivot. Both are necessary for long cable life.


No argument here. I was just asking. Your excellent photo allowed me to see that piece clearer than I can see it in my bus whilst installed. My Bentley mentions the "newfangled" auto locking wingnut, but only has photos of the old style jam nut design. Of course, the tranny in my bus is newer, so I'm out of luck, diagram-wise. Anyone wanna confirm the two-sided nature of this arm so I'll know when I have to put my next tranny in? (Just ordered a '67 bus tranny from Ronnie at Oldvolks).
Thanks,
J.
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all! Cool
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incynr8
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry is correct, the 'later' part has chamfers on both sides. The early ones kinda sweep inward, the newer ones swing kinda outward. My 66 and 67s had the arrangement like BarryL's pic, and the 59 has the arm sweeping in with jam nuts.

I was just venting how much I hate changing that part!
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I'll confess I was starting a s*%t storm. It is on backwards but that is how I run those. The jam nut style need the clearance on the bowden tube side and the later ones (wingnut) work better with the same clearance area. the return spring lasts longer for me with it backwards also (something about less binding). The thing is that the wingnuts are not as perfect as in the og days. Most of them jam in the chamfer, even with grease, and bend the threaded rod a scosch each depress. I always file the wingnut smooth and look for the least surface area contact hence the reversed arm. There are about 3 wingnuts, I've found, but the best are the VW drop forged ones that ring when dropped on cement.
I've flipped the arm in situ before and it can be done but is delicado getting the external snapring back on. Make a coat hanger looong hook to pull the spring back.
The way to tell if you got the lever on the official correct way is the spring keeper land goes toward the bell housing.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geez, BarryL, make it difficult, why doncha'?
Thanks for the clarification.
I agree that the replacement wingnuts, and even OG worn ones work like crap. I have been known to put a jam nut on the locking wingnut when they wear out.
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all! Cool
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you live near a marine supply store there's a black plastic tubing used for throttles and shifters on yachts that is perfect for the cable sleeve. It's made by Hynautics and West Marine, among others sells it.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
If you live near a marine supply store there's a black plastic tubing used for throttles and shifters on yachts that is perfect for the cable sleeve. It's made by Hynautics and West Marine, among others sells it.


That sounds like the best idea yet. Probably designed with resistance to wear through, unlike regular plastic tubing.
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i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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elise111
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't find the bus version of this bowden tube, and the good idea of the marine throttle tubing at West Marine was a dead end at two different stores that I tried. I was reluctant to use old rubber fuel line since I figured rubber would increase friction on the cable. Maybe those Toyota reports of sticking throttles got to me.

So, I gave the beetle version (131 721 551) a try and instead of being too short, it was too long! I trimmed mine from 610mm to 585mm and it fits well.

This part is about $10 at IPC / JBugs.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that measurement. Since my last blabber-mouthing I've found that those Beetle ones are now re-available, too. I wriggle off the forward ferrule, cut the cable, file the burr, trim the vinyl, and re-wriggle the ferule back on. They work great.

Found this, although the stuff is still around in the stores I frequent:

"The manufacturer (Teleflex) is discontinuing all the Hynautic steering systems and replacing them with the SeaStar line of hydraulic steering systems. There are still many units available and of course we will be repairing and rebuilding units for many years to come."

The Hynautic tubing is about the same as 1/4" opaque or black water line as in icemaker/refridgerator.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe you are looking for this,no picture,but a part number:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211129891
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