Rebuilding your 56 to 61 fuel reserve tap.

[duginabug]

I was given this old skanky fuel valve that "appeared" to be beyond hope. It was frozen tight with gunk and yuck and looked like a good candidate for the s#!t can (didn't take any pics though). BUT...I thought I'd give it a try anyway - and I'm glad I did. I soaked it in a cup of Break-Free for two days and scrubbed all the nasty off and I'll be damned if it didn't clean-up pretty good.
So here's the quick and dirty on rebuilding a fuel valve. It's pretty straight forward but hopefully someone will find it useful. I'm not well versed on all the spiffy terminology for the parts and pieces, but I'm sure you'll get the idea.

I bought the rebuild kit from WW.

Disassemble.

Reassembly.

Here's a picture from WW with the wire on the rubber boot. This would be a wise idea to do.

Not a big deal, just useful info.

Good luck.
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1960 Sedan. L349 Jade Green.

[Helfen]

Nice post, While I did mine a few years back on my 65, I wish I had that close-up of the snap ring because there was so much crud on mine you couldn't see it! It looked like part of the main body, finally after soaking in carb cleaner and then 3hrs in Zep I was able to see and get it apart. Great pictures, I'm sure you've saved someone some grief.

Don

[asad1432]

Wow!

Useful info???? Im ready to subscribe to your fan list

Thanks a lot for the nice step by step pictorial tutorial. Have bookmarked this thread as it would be invaluable for me as I rebuild my 59 ragtop.

[Eric&Barb]

Very nice, but if you do not apply a mixture of graphite and grease to the inner valve seal will most likely not last long. So nice to be able to switch it to "Off" position when replacing fuel lines or removing the engine and not having the fuel leaking out.

Good to also remove or just cut off the shorter reserve pipe. That was little to no water can be trapped in the tank to rust it out.
Way easier to just drain the carb if need be.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[SOWEGA]

Thank you. I believe this is the second step by step I have read that you have authored. If only the majority of the posts were like this...interesting and informative. Unfortunately, most are ridiculous and frustrating.
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Danny

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

I have aquestion about these. I just removed my 61 fuel tap, to clean and repair.

Are the tubes replaceable, mine have cracks.

I will probably repair and solder
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[bill may]

is the rebuild the same for a 1962-1967 Standard beetle fuel reserve valve?
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Admin note: Bill Passed away - July, 2017

1965 panel bus-Kermit
"Camping is cheaper than therapy"
www.sv2s.com
www.steeringboxscrapers.net
SBS #100
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453617

[Bart Dunn]

[duginabug]

[Eric&Barb]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_chalk
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[downsbs]

I rebuilt one over ten years ago using graphite grease and it is still going strong.
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1956 Rag W/ Semaphores

[Loren]

I just rebuilt a fuel tap and this post was a great help. I did come across a few issues that were not covered, so I thought I would add them.

Unfortunately both of the brass tubes were broken off the end of the tap. The first thing I did was file the area flat and used a counter sink to ream out the holes (this will also help in centering the drill bit later on).

With the holes cleaned up the next step was to insert a 7/64" bit into one of the holes. You might need to use a hand drill to coax the bit into the hole, you want a nice tight fit. Push the bit in as far as it will go and chuck it into the drill press.

Now lower the bit with the fuel tap and carefully clamp the fuel tap in a vice. This will help insure you drill straight into the original holes. You don't want to drill the holes out at an angle. Raise the chuck on the drill and remove the 7/64" drill bit.

Now put a 5/32" drill bit in the chuck and either put a piece of tape 3/8" from the tip of the bit or set the drill stop to extend the bit 3/8" into the end of the tap.

Drill out both holes to a depth of 3/8"

Next I went to my local hobby store and bought some 5/32" O.D. brass tubing to replace the missing tubing on the tap. Luckily, I had another tap on hand to measure the length of the tubing. The long piece was 3 7/16" long and the short piece was 7/8" long. Adding 3/8" to each piece to account for the depth of the holes I drilled, I cut two pieces of tubing measuring 1 1/4" and 3 13/16". I used a cut off wheel on the dremel to cut the tubing. Once they were cut I filed the ends flat, used the counter sink to clean up the ends and used sand paper to taper the outside edges and remove any burrs. I put a bend in the long piece about 2 1/4" from one end to match the other tap I had. This allows the fuel screen to fit over the two tubes.

Finally install the two tubes in the correct holes and solder them in place.

After a little clean up here is the final result.

With the tap fixed it was time to put it back together. I noticed some pitting on the under side of the selector valve.

I put some wet/dry sand paper on the kitchen counter (you want a flat surface to put the sand paper on. A piece of tile or a piece of glass work well too) added a little water and sanded it until all of the marks were gone. I sanded the edges a little too, just to take down the sharp edge.

With the valve selector flat and smooth I added a thin coat of moly graphite assembly lube to the bottom of the valve selector and the top of the position selector.

With the fuel tap all back together it was time to add the wire on the boot. I used some thin galvanized wire I found at the hobby store.

I tightened it with a pair of needle nose pliers, cut off the excess wire and bent the twisted part back.

All finished and ready to install!

[bill may]

extremely helpful pictures and repair writeup.
_________________
Admin note: Bill Passed away - July, 2017

1965 panel bus-Kermit
"Camping is cheaper than therapy"
www.sv2s.com
www.steeringboxscrapers.net
SBS #100
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453617

[duginabug]

Holy crap Loren! I just noticed your addition to this post. Nicely done. Thanks
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1960 Sedan. L349 Jade Green.

[jt69bug]

I discovered this tonight while I was working on my 59. I cleaned it up and used the kit from WW (their instructions are horrible). This was a WONDERFUL help to me.

I couldn't help but notice that in the above images, the gentleman put some lube directly on the rubber piece. I didn't do that and felt the gasoline would lube it up enough. I was also worried about the grease stopping up the fuel line. I did however lube up the part up top where it was metal to metal.

Do you think it's okay to lube up the rubber part?

[my59]

Fixing the brass tubes is a nice addition to the thread. Now I know what to do with the original tap that I replaced becuase the brass pipes were cracked right at the tap surface.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[Eric&Barb]

[Boom]

nice thread, but I recently built a 61 and was able to buy a new unit for 50 bucks just incase you tear yours up they are available.
mine even has vw stamped into the body
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Ovals are Overrated.....Click to view image

67 Chubby White Chic

Düg Büg

dLk

[Eric&Barb]

[jt69bug]

I did not grease the above the rubber seal; it seems to be working just fine though... Should I remove and grease up to prevent some sort of failure?