How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions

zao · Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:41 am Post subject:

Only way to do it is properly and safely. Removing leafs is not the proper way nor the safest.
It all depends on how low you want to go. Smaller tires will drop it some. Flipped spindles will drop it more, but to go low you need an adjustable beam, low profile tires, straight axle/IRS and cutting the rear spring plates so that you can index them lower. You can get by without cutting the spring plates, but you can't get too low and you can also flip the RGB's like stated before with sealed bearings. But if you will be driving it a lot, I would look into doing the whole thing correctly to avoid as much wear as possible.

Really no way around it.
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-Kevin

SoCal Chuck · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:22 pm Post subject:

Here is my 67 Westy that I owned when I was 18 years old, dont mind the blanket as I was hiding a hit and run accident. I lowered this bus the poor mans way and yes it has RGB's. For the front I chopped the ends off the torsion bars making stacks for them to still attach to the trailing arms. All were chopped except 2 largs ones. It slammed really low with no flipped spindles and no adjustable beam...and it rode nice on air shocks. The rear I notched the spring plates and set them in a lowered position. It drove great on the fwy but I had a major camber. Very ghetto and unsafe but at the time it was the way to go.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Just Cruzin VW Club~Est. 1998

SoCal Chuck · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:30 pm Post subject:

Now that I am almost 28 years old I have slammed my 64 Bus in what some people might say, the right way...which is spending a lot of $$$. Front end is a KCW 4.5" narrowed adjustable beam with Bubbas flipped spindles from Florida and 165/45/15 Federal low profile tires. The rear is a type 3 freway flyer trans with straight axles, notched spring plates in a lowered position. Cool thing is, I could go way lower...as soon as I get a steering box raise done and air ride suspension. Soon to come. This bus is my daily driver and is on the freeway everyday.

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Just Cruzin VW Club~Est. 1998

mastajusty · Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:48 am Post subject:

Ok, i know that this has been discussed in length but i am having problems finding the correct measurements for modifying my stock bus spring plated to accept lengthen long axle tubes for a straight axle conversion. I borrowed an existing picture from but changed how the modifications were to be measured... I am under the impression that the stock bus spring plate is to be cut at, or just behind the inside edge of the three bolt holes? the rest is a bit unclear and i would like to have by ducks in a row before i take a saw to anything! hope the picture isn't to fuzzy...
thanks for the help

SoCal Chuck · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:58 am Post subject:

Save yourself the headaches, buy some straight axle spring plates and then sell your stock ones. I found these notched straight axle plates for a real good price. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=928522 if you dont wanna buy some, your diagram looks very acurate and should be fine.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=928522 These were just listed recently and are the exact same ones Im running.
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Just Cruzin VW Club~Est. 1998

mastajusty · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:52 pm Post subject:

thanks for the link, that is a good price for the plates already modified! I still would like to know how they measure out though... there has got to be a few folks here interested in making their own and someone with a set laying around that would not mind taking a few measurements... However i will defiantly agree it would be easier to buy a set.

cdennisg · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 2:51 pm Post subject:

Courtesy of Jeremyrockjock and the samba gallery
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nothing

mastajusty · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 3:39 pm Post subject:

I have those printed out and have traced the measurements out on a spring plate, however im not sure what to make of the measurements of the bolt holes.... is that suggesting that you drill two holes (for instance one centered at 7/8 and one at 1 5/64th creating an oval hole?)

if that is the case then the existing bolt holes and the new ones overlap which does not seem correct. i found the following picture on the SBS site which looks correct but lacks measurements.

WideFive · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:15 pm Post subject:

The measurements are there, the Bug pattern just needs moved forward as shown in the revised pic.
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Aaron D. Badertscher
Click here for ALL my links.

mastajusty · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:43 pm Post subject:

Ok, so use the same measurements for the plates, just move the holes back, let's say 1/4 inch (so the holes don't overlap) for lengthen axle tubes?

also... Thanks guys!

WideFive · Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:08 pm Post subject:

mastajusty · Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:21 am Post subject:

sounds good, thanks WideFive

classictint · Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:49 pm Post subject:

Can I use 68' bug long axle/ long spline on my 67' bug trans? If so do i need custom axle tubes or will the stock 67' long tubes be alright?
Thanks

Gord240 · Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:09 pm Post subject: 1957 bus I.R.S

Hey Guys,
Need a little advice. Putting and IRS conversion in my '57 Dormobile. I puchased an adapter plate from CSP that will allow a later tunnel trans to go into an early bus. I have installed a later split bus nose cone and hockey stick in my new IRS trans. Two problems, this adapter only allows for a solid (no rubber) mount to the chassis. Has anyone used this? Is it noisy? Do you break nose cones with a bigger that stock motor using this? Second problem, there is zero clearance for a reverse light switch. I'm getting the feeling I will have to cut the original front mount out a weld in a mount from a donor bus of go back to the drawing board for an adapter. Any ideas? Confused

cdennisg · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:23 am Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:29 am Post subject: Re: 1957 bus I.R.S

Gord240 · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:44 pm Post subject: Thanks

Great info! I really appreciate it! Looks like a partial mod is the strongest, quietest and best option. Cutting the lower half of the OG mount and welding in a plate for a later rubber trans mount to bolt to seems to be the right solution.

Thanks again,
Gord.

ukdj · Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:07 pm Post subject:

I have a 68 type 3 tranny with 4 lug drums to wide 5 adapters and 15" bus rims with 195 65 15's They are really close to the springplate like 1/4" its not very low just one spline .Is the wide 5 type 3 drum wider or the thing drum?I just wanted to be a little further away from the springplate thanks Craig oh they are connected to Womacks plates if that makes any difference.
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driving down the road of life at 60 mph

cdennisg · Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:18 pm Post subject:

Does anyone have a diagram of the dimensions for the e-brake cable adapter tube? I want to make a handful for some future projects. I know they can be made from a piece of tie rod, I just need the overall length and the diameter of the skinny end. I now I have seen a CAD drawing posted somewhere before.

I searched the gallery with every description I could think of, but no dice.
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nothing


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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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