Bostig conversion, Charcoal cannister. Anybody done this?

[Vsyevolod]

I'm just finishing up my Bostig conversion. I know that the TEC shop in Seattle has a 5 page PDF on hooking up the charcoal cannister to capture/recycle the gas fumes. Has anyone succeeded in doing this? The TEC shop PDF is rather vague.

TIA,

Stephen






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[climberjohn]

Does the Bostig conversion require that the charcoal cannister be moved from the stock location?

-CJ
_________________
'86 Westy, 2.5 Subaru power
Know your limits. Exceed them often.

[Vsyevolod]

No, the Bostig conversion currently ignores the whole thing. The TEC shop actually does something about it. I don't know enough to understand the why's and wherefore's so I was asking the esteemed community at large here. I'm guessing that it's not so much a big deal if Bostig can comfortably ignore it.

Stephen






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[thummmper]

I'll give you a little perspective.
the 2.2 subaru conversion uses the vanagon coalcan as well. the 5/8" bottom tube goes to the intake upstream of the throttle body and pcv. The white 6mm hard plastic line goes to the intake manifold for vacuum. [I tapped a 1/4" npt taper thread with an 1/4" icemaker ferrule into it and slipped the 6mm inside the 1/4" for a nice tight fit. the top 5/8 hose goes to the vanagon vacuum valve. the purple 4mm hard plastic goes to the throttle body small black rubber vacuum line system, teeing in.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/642456.jpg
see the vac valve in the right corner and the white plastic line on the right.
the purple line is visible in the foreground crossing the silver manifold.
the black hose at the bacl on the intake periscope is the bottom charcoal hose.
todd

[Vsyevolod]

So part of my question is: Can the two hard plastic tubes safely be ignored?

Another part of my question is trying to clear up some of the vagaries of the whole system that the cannister functions within. Go easy on me. Use small words...

Stephen






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[climberjohn]

The charcoal cannister is part of your emissions control system. It prevents gas vapors from going into the atmosphere, a significant source of air pollution. There is quite a lot written about it here. Tencent, as always, has posted some useful info. Try a search on <charcoal AND cannister>, and check these posts to get started:

Fuel Tank Vacuum
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=391727

EVAP system circumvention go or no go?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=222942

PS - Could you post a link to the vwtechshop .pdf file you mentioned? I'd be very curious to read this, as I am having issues with my cannister as well (a loud "bonk" sound from the gas tank.)

xo,
CJ
_________________
'86 Westy, 2.5 Subaru power
Know your limits. Exceed them often.

[Vanagon Nut]

[Williamtaylor33]

I havent done it. But if you want to connect the charcoal canister i think you can extend the vaccum hoses from the canister to one of the nipples on the intake.
You know....the ones that are usually broke off when you get your engine from the yard... Bostig supplies some rubber block offs for these.
_________________
89 Bostig powered syncro westy

[Vsyevolod]

You have to be a member of the Bostig Core Google Group to view this file. As this question is directed (in part) to people who might have already done this mod, here is the link.

http://bostig-core.googlegroups.com/web/EVAP_BOSTI...F-vtiGpWAA

If you aren't a member of this group, PM me with your email address and I can send you a copy.

Stephen






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[Christopher Schimke]

[Vanagon Nut]

[Vsyevolod]

Great, I'm starting to get a better sense of the whats and whyfors about this charcoal cannister stuff. (Thanks guys for all the internal and external links to reading material. I'd like to hook it all up, though have yet to find any simple instructions. Where exactly do I hook up the thin nylon lavender and white lines coming from the cannister that used to hook up somewhere to my 2.1 engine? Special parts needed? What are the specs on the nylon line as I'll need to pick up some more (mine was cut). Any pics available?

Stephen






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[Vsyevolod]

[Vsyevolod]

[Vsyevolod]

[Vsyevolod]

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Okay, this is what Bostig recommends me to do...

Take the nylon vacuum line coming out of the Charcoal Filter Valve and feed it back into itself. I'm doing this for now, though it seems like it would be nice for the gas vapour to reenter the fuel area and get recycled somehow. Is it possible that no Bostig converts reading this have done anything with their gas vapour lines?

I do realize that somehow one of the lines is supposed to enter the air line close to the throttle body and the other line is supposed to get hooked up to a vacuum line. Just don't have a clue how or where to do this.

Thanks everybody so far,

Stephen






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[tencentlife]

I guess that's Jim's idea of a joke. At least I think it's pretty funny.

You ought to set this system up to work instead of sidelining it like that. In order to work with the standard control valve, though, there has to be a throttle vacuum nipple on the engine's throttle body. That means a nipple where there is no vac at idle, but vac comes on as soon as the throttle tips in. It will be on the TB directly in line with the plane of the butterfly when closed. If there is no such thing on the Zetec TB then it will be harder to make work, but not impossible.

Once you find the throttle-vac nipple, connect the top of the EEC control valve to there. Connect the bottom fitting of the valve to intake manifold anywhere after the TB.

Before bothering with that, though, you should test the other parts of the system.

First test the tank venting system: remove the small fuel tank vent line from the top of the canister. Attach a piece of hose to it so you can blow into it, or better yet use a vacuum pump/gauge. Remove the fuel filler cap. You should be able to blow or suck air thru the vent line, or using the vac pump you should not be able to pull a vac on that line with the filler cap removed. With the filler cap replaced, you should not be able to blow air thru it, or using the vac pump you should be able to draw down some vac on it.

Then test the canister: fit your test hose to the open nipple on top of the canister where the vent line attached. You should be able to blow or suck air thru the canister. If you can't the canister is blocked and you'll need to replace it.

Replace the tank venting line to the top of the canister.

To test the control valve it really helps to have a vac pump/gauge. Connect it to the fitting on the top of the valve. Attach a hose to the bottom fitting. Try to suck air thru the bottom hose; you should not be able to. Now apply vacuum to the top fitting; as soon as you do, the valve should open and you can now suck air thru the valve from the bottom line.

If all that checks out, plumb the two vac lines as I described above and it will work. No, you won't notice any difference in how the engine runs one way or another.
_________________
Shop for unique Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/

Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Experience is kryptonite to doctrine.

[Christopher Schimke]

[Vanagon Nut]

[sanfordphoto]

Hey Stephen, did you ever get this figured out? I'm in the middle of my conversion and should be bolting up my tranny and Zetec Saturday.

Thanks, Sanford