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Torque converter and plate rotates 1 inch before engine rota
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kbatson
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:41 am    Post subject: Torque converter and plate rotates 1 inch before engine rota Reply with quote

How can it be that I can rotate my torque converter and plate 10-15 degrees before the engine begins to rotate? is it not fastened to the end of the crank? The only thing i can think of is that all 5 crancshaft bolt are broken? unlikely as it seems???? WTF? that is my noise that has been perplexing me... ideas?
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you're saying that if you rotate the engine at, say, the main pulley - the torque converter/flex plate does not move correspondingly?
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GeeZ12
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked to make sure all torque converter bolts are intact? They can shear if you use the wrong bolts or torque values. If they are indeed intact then you probably lost your flex plate. They can crack. Also, rotate the engine and see if the flex plate follows.
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kbatson
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: flex plate Reply with quote

Flex plate is rotating, at least in the bolt access hole, with the converter. this is freaking me out.
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kbatson
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:42 am    Post subject: flexplate Reply with quote

i am at work so my 36 and breakover are at home. i did stick a screwdriver into the torque converter cooling vanes and can move the plate and converter waaaaayyy too much before the engine starts to want to turn. converter to flexplate bolts checke yesterday and all was well... i have been chasing this rattle for weeks. this flexplate came off of my engine that threw a rod. i did not notice any cracking or sheared rivets, however i did not look specifically either. i installed this onto a former clutched engine, rattle was there right off the bat. at first i though it was the classic lifter pumping up noise, but i know that language, this is different.
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mainevan
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know it isn't a vanagon, but I just got done replacing the flex plate on a GM 3800, the flex plate had cracked in the center, all the way around, where it mates up to the output/crank shaft. So this made it 2 pieces, one inner piece connected to the crank, the other piece connected to the torque converter. It would move either way a little bit, not in sync with the crank, but would stay engaged with the rest of the plate just enough for the driver to get where he was going for a few weeks until the clicking/hammering noise and vibration made him want to fix it. My money would be on this as your issue.

Only way to find out it pull the engine and check it. You have something in there that needs replacing regardless
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kbatson
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:13 pm    Post subject: thanks Reply with quote

oh she's coming back out. it's my fault for being in a hurry and not looking. i have been in quality assurance and inspection for over 20 years. if i worked for myself, i would have to fire me.

Thanks folks.
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:08 pm    Post subject: Re: thanks Reply with quote

kbatson wrote:
oh she's coming back out.

What's coming out of where?
EDIT: Okay. Engine is coming out of the van.

I got a new flex plate at GoWesty for 99 bucks. Combine that with a new mainseal and you'll be good to go.
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Last edited by deprivation on Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know which is easier, but you can pull either the transmission or the engine. If it is not the flex plate, then it may be the crank, in which case having the engine out would be a head start. You don't specify the year, but an air cooled might be easier to pull than the transmission. The watercooled, I think I would pull the automatic first. I hate laying in coolant.
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GeeZ12
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget to check and adjust your crankshaft end play when you change out your seals and flex plate.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:16 pm    Post subject: Re: thanks Reply with quote

mainevan wrote:
I know it isn't a vanagon, but I just got done replacing the flex plate on a GM 3800, the flex plate had cracked in the center, all the way around, where it mates up to the output/crank shaft. So this made it 2 pieces, one inner piece connected to the crank, the other piece connected to the torque converter. It would move either way a little bit, not in sync with the crank, but would stay engaged with the rest of the plate just enough for the driver to get where he was going for a few weeks until the clicking/hammering noise and vibration made him want to fix it. My money would be on this as your issue.

Only way to find out it pull the engine and check it. You have something in there that needs replacing regardless


Haven't seen it happen on a wbx yet, but that's a common failure mode, and often the cars can be driven. Maybe it's helped by the TC damping torque. I wouldn't be at all surprised to find out that's what happened.



deprivation wrote:


I got a new flex plate at GoWesty for 99 bucks. Combine that with a new mainseal and you'll be good to go.
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Polish that paint off that hub first, son!
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:01 am    Post subject: Re: thanks Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Polish that paint off that hub first, son!

Oh, I did. A little Scotchbrite and Brakleen and maybe a few other misspelled products. No leaks! Yay!
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kbatson
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject: thanks all Reply with quote

after 4 ghias, countless beetles, 3 round vans and 7 vanagons, i remain but a student... lesson learned: do what bob said and recess the main seal, especially with the automatic/flex plate. the rivets don't dig all the friction of rubbing on the seal. it makes things go badly. shoulda coulda woulda looked but didn't... all is well and thanks to the dude in portland for overnight shipping, even if we had to do it twice. cheers mates.
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you're back on the road? Awesome.
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kbatson
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back on the road. Happy to be able to hear all the other noises I need to address!
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm curious - did you pull the engine or the transmission?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i intended to just pull the trans, but ended up just pulling the engine (40 minutes) as I wanted full quality access to ensure the endplay was correct and that my main seal was intalled the way it should be. not to bad as i have done it four times in the last 2 months with my engine swap... i got my groove back!
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kbatson wrote:
i have done it four times in the last 2 months ...i got my groove back!

I'll bet.
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Morris_82
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

removing the flex plate...you all make it sound so eeeeaaaaasssssyyyy.

I'm struggling with mine right now. For instance, what size are the five double hex bolts? 9mm is a wee too small, and 10mm a wee too big.

Surely VW didn't use SAE bolts to stick the TC drive plate to the crankshaft.
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GeeZ12
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try an 8 point - 8mm or 5/16" socket.
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