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Cracked cylinder. Is there any way to save this?
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it is on the side. I'm familiar with drilling to stop a crack; I've done that to cymbals before. Jimmy has spare new ones, so he'll send me one, but I'm still waiting to hear back from him.
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morymob
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamestwo wrote:
Run it!!!I have a cylinder that had the exact same crack. I cut the crack out with a die grinder. The motor turned 7200 rpm, ran 13's, and i drove it about 5k. never a problem.

If you cut the crack out, there is nothing to go wrong. drilling is another option, but you still have to try and straighten the area around the crack.

Just cut it out, Drill the bottom of the crack before you cut would be a good idea to keep it from spreading while you cut.

You will be ok as long as you have some of machined area left to seal the case. Also, check to make sure the skirt of the piston is supported all during the stroke, but your crack looks to be on the side of the cylinder, so that shouldn't be a problem. Why cut out a big ugly section?? not needed if drilled to stop crack,metal around crack area not going anywhere, waste of time.

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miniman82
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 103mm cylinder for my T4 engine with a crack in exactly the same spot, the machine shop drilled a small hole to arrest it's propogation. I have to doubt it will work just fine.
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Glenn wrote:
satterley_sr wrote:

I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy.


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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because the area is bent. You can straighten it, but how you going to make perfectly round.....not that it matters because the piston in most cases will not even travel down that far, butif it's bent it will make it hard to assemble.

As far as being ugly, no one see's it.


morymob wrote:
jamestwo wrote:
Run it!!!I have a cylinder that had the exact same crack. I cut the crack out with a die grinder. The motor turned 7200 rpm, ran 13's, and i drove it about 5k. never a problem.

If you cut the crack out, there is nothing to go wrong. drilling is another option, but you still have to try and straighten the area around the crack.

Just cut it out, Drill the bottom of the crack before you cut would be a good idea to keep it from spreading while you cut.

You will be ok as long as you have some of machined area left to seal the case. Also, check to make sure the skirt of the piston is supported all during the stroke, but your crack looks to be on the side of the cylinder, so that shouldn't be a problem. Why cut out a big ugly section?? not needed if drilled to stop crack,metal around crack area not going anywhere, waste of time.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mentioned they were machined. Did the machinist clamp the lathe jaws a little to tight on the ID spreading the spigot and cracking it?? Just a thought.

Brian
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, they weren't cracked when I got them back.
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jeff denham
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i agree with jamestwo. grind it out and run it. just champher cartrige roll the edge. and repower hone that cly. JD .
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

YOu don't need to gouge it out that big to clear the crack.

A small fine wheel from your Dremel will be enough and save more material. Just run the wheel right in the crack. You will end up w/ a smal slit. The cut is so small that it will get rid of the burr and keep all the material in place. This will make more sense than taking out that much.
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I talked to Jimmy last night and he is sending out one of his spares on Monday. I don't argue that grinding the area doesn't work; I'm just not sure I trust myself to do it, or do it effectively. I get free machine work from our local guy, so I can't argue with that either. Wink

vwracerdave wrote:
Replace it. Don't jeopardize a $5000 engine...


Staple a few more bills onto that and then we'll talk.
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually screwed mine up while fixing it. Very Happy

Your right, just remove the damage.

BTW, if i could gotten a new one cheap, i would have done that...plus I didn't want to wait.

nsracing wrote:
YOu don't need to gouge it out that big to clear the crack.

A small fine wheel from your Dremel will be enough and save more material. Just run the wheel right in the crack. You will end up w/ a smal slit. The cut is so small that it will get rid of the burr and keep all the material in place. This will make more sense than taking out that much.

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jeff denham
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the pictures shows an obvies crack straite down AND BUCKELD but i bet if you got the magnifying glass out there will be the crack alot smaller making a turn and i dont think just the slice would help that. if your on a shoe string bugget you know what to do. but if you wipe your a?? with hundreds well i would hope you would know what to do as well. JD .
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