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Steering question
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:30 pm    Post subject: Steering question Reply with quote

I recently got my 66 bus running and driving. the steering was loose so i replaced the draglink and the steering feels good. I was driving it into my backyard today to remove the carb for a rebuild as it was having issues. I noticed as i was turning the steering wheel it would keep turning as long as i was turning it Shocked hadnt noticed this before the draglink swap but i had not driven it much.

I was looking under the bus as my son was turning the steering wheel and didnt see anything wierd with the draglink but he could keep turning the wheel as long as he wanted to. steering wheel is stock. any ideas?
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mintonman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the wheels themselves stop turning and the steering wheel continues to turn?
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes,
i am going to pop the steering wheel off tomorrow and see if the splines on the column are stripped Confused
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Jake Martinez
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it should be keyed
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

should is the key word here. hoping thats all that is wrong with it.
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

woodruff key was not in there Confused went to the local hardware store and 95 cents later all seems good.
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///Mink
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you've been driving it around without a woodruf key??!? Shocked Shocked
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

///Mink wrote:
So you've been driving it around without a woodruf key??!? Shocked Shocked


Could have been worse! I've had a steering shaft break on me at a street corner... while on my way to go off roading! Shocked



Well, more like
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

///Mink wrote:
So you've been driving it around without a woodruf key??!? Shocked Shocked


i guess so Laughing i first noticed the steering wheel turning a little more than it should on the way home from your house. glad i didnt take it to red barn Cool
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patayres
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently picked up a '65 singlecab and the steering wheel arms are at 1:00 & 7:00 with the bus moving down a straight road. It isn't pulling... tracks nice and straight when I let go of the wheel. Is this just an issue of pulling off the wheel and setting it back up with the arms @ 3 & 9? Sorry for the thread hijack...
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

patayres wrote:
I recently picked up a '65 singlecab and the steering wheel arms are at 1:00 & 7:00 with the bus moving down a straight road. It isn't pulling... tracks nice and straight when I let go of the wheel. Is this just an issue of pulling off the wheel and setting it back up with the arms @ 3 & 9? Sorry for the thread hijack...



No. The steering wheel is keyed, not splined.
To adjust the centering of the steering wheel, you have to change the length of the drag link. You do this by removing one end of it from the steering box pitman arm, rotating it to lengthen it or shorten it as appropriate, and then reinstalling it. You will need a balljoint popper tool to make this a less unpleasant task.

This is the time to get an alignment, if the bus may need it, because when you adjust the toe-in, only one tie rod is adjustable. This affects the center position of the steering wheel. Adjusting the drag link and then getting an alignment later is going to cause remorse.
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patayres
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roger, Major... l suspected it might not be that easy. Thanks for the explanation. I'll add an alignment to the list.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure before you pay for an alignment that your center pin is tight in its bushings with NO (and I mean NO) play, that your link pins are adjusted correctly with fresh grease, that your wheel bearings are adjusted correctly with fresh grease, and that there is no play in your tie rod ends (they are replaceable and cheap) or drag link (unit is replaced entirely when worn). Once all the play has been removed from those mechanisms, then you are ready for an alignment and drag link adjustment to center your steering wheel.
Once all of that has been completed, adjust your steering box according to the procedure in the Bentley manual. There is a slotted screw and a jam nut on it. It should be adjusted so the steering wheel moves smoothly from lock to lock with a slight rub/lumpy resistance at center (wheels off the ground). Do not do this until the steering wheel has been centered by the alignment shop, or you may not be able to tell know exactly where center is.
Depending on the year of your bus, the box either has gear oil or grease in it. You should consider changing that lube, as it is likely well past its intended service life. Search other threads for further discussion on the subject of steering box lube. Warning--cleaning the steering box interior thoroughly is a disgusting task.

If the bus wanders or seems unstable on the road, the likely culprit is a worn out steering box, incorrect shocks, passenger car rated tires, failed steering dampener (if your bus had one) a combination of the above, or collision damage to the trailing arms.
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JohnnyBfromPeoria
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any reason why you can't put an adjustable tied rod assembly on BOTH sides? Seems to me that the only difference is that one side adjusts and the other side doesn't. Would make centering the wheel and adjusting toe-in/out that much simpler, I would think.

John B.
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Culito
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JohnnyBfromPeoria wrote:
Is there any reason why you can't put an adjustable tied rod assembly on BOTH sides? Seems to me that the only difference is that one side adjusts and the other side doesn't. Would make centering the wheel and adjusting toe-in/out that much simpler, I would think.

John B.

Adjust toe, pop draglink, center steering wheel.
Seems simple enough.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JohnnyBfromPeoria wrote:
Is there any reason why you can't put an adjustable tied rod assembly on BOTH sides? Seems to me that the only difference is that one side adjusts and the other side doesn't. Would make centering the wheel and adjusting toe-in/out that much simpler, I would think.

John B.

I actually have both sides adjustable on my bus. The beam came to me that way(1969 ball joint front beam.)
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ToolBox
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JohnnyBfromPeoria wrote:
Is there any reason why you can't put an adjustable tied rod assembly on BOTH sides? Seems to me that the only difference is that one side adjusts and the other side doesn't. Would make centering the wheel and adjusting toe-in/out that much simpler, I would think.

John B.


As long as the adjustable tie rod was set at the same length as the fixed rod. If not you steering geometery will be jacked.
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