getting dual webers in sync........

[nybugguy]

First timer with dual webers.There seems to be an occasional pop out the exhaust which could also be valve adjustment(right?) What would the vavle adjustment be on a 1973 1835cc super beetle motor?Also,what is the procedure in syncronizing the webers.Some think it is hard and others say they are quite easy.I just don't want to screw anything up since it is my first time.Any diagrams out there that will help me? Thanks everyone.

[Letterman7]

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/311.htm

That outlines basic balancing procedures, but that's only the beginning. You'll need a synchrometer of some sort to balance the carbs. What makes you think they are out of balance anyway? Are they new to the motor? Have you made any changes to them at all? Are they clean? Do they have the same jets? Etc... etc...
It isn't all that hard to sync carbs, but it does take a little more than that to get them to play nice with the engine. Since you don't even know what the valve adjustment should be (the same as any other Beetle engine), I wouldn't mess with the carbs. Popping through the exhaust might be the valves or it could just be a lean mixture on that side. A lean mixture could be caused by a blocked jet... or a simple adjustment is needed. Find someone who has experience with tuning aircooled motors and learn with them before you go diving into adjusting carbs - you might make matters worse if you stumble into it blindly.

[nybugguy]

I had already planned on someone else doing it.I might be dumb but I'm not stupid. I know the valve adjustment on a standard beetle motor, just wasn't sure if it was the same for a 1835. That's why I always check on here first before "diving" in. Thanks for your help....I really do appreciate it.

[Dale M.]

Some real basics is check valve adjustments.... If you have aluminum pushrods the accepted setting is .006 ... If you have chrome moly (steel-magnetic) the accepted setting is loose "zero" (.000+)...

Check idle sets on offending cylinder, its pretty easy, just take them out and sight through them at a bright light, you should see a "pinpoint" of light, if not clean them with fine copper wire and a little air pressure or carb spray...

If these things do not help, you may have deeper issues, check offending side for vacuum leaks at manifold "connections" to head and carb.... Also check air bypass screws, they should be closed!....

These are all things you can do with out upsetting the ying-yang of the VW engine universe....

Dale
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Letterman7]

Never implied you were stupid. Carbs can be finicky creatures if you don't know what you're doing. Dale has some good points to follow. The idle bypass screws have two schools of thought, depending on what you read. I've always set mine closed as mentioned.