New rear drums...rear shoes...the works. Adjustment question

[Jtast17]

So, I did it all. Replaced the westy's brake system in the rear end almost in its entirety. The p side brakes were complete toast, wheel cylinder shot, etc. Due to a number of reasons I imagine. The backing plates on both sides of the rear were rusting on the "outer lip"...the p side lacking it altogether. So did the works...

-new backing plates
-new drums (p side was FAR outside wear limit)
-new shoes
-all new hardware
-new rear rubber lines and replace p side hardline from T to rubber line.
-both e brake cables...

Anyways...my question comes with the brake adjustment on "all new" components. My star adjusters are moving great and such and I know I'll need to make adjustments to the brakes before i do the ebrake.

Bled system out tonight...

when I go to make the brake shoe adjustments tomorrow using the star wheels...anyone have a rough idea of how many turns out I might be on new drums w/ new shoes? Only reason I ask is "fully backed off" (star wheels) as I installed them...with the the drums on the P side seems to roll a bit more smooth (no shoe drag) right from the get go vs. the d side...which seems like the shoes are already making contact in some way already just slightly. Or...does it not really make much of a difference (i.e. possibly slght difference in spring tension for return springs or possibly even just overall structure). Just want them to be in the best shape possible as I go ahead and make the adjustments. Ok for the adjustment to be slighty different between the two sides (p side vs. d side). Just thought i'd ask as I've always adjusted her brakes with the "older" stuff...never have had a complete new setup on the bay.

Shouldn't need to rebleed after the adjustment either...do you think?

Joe
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1972 VW Westfailia
1966 Corvair Monza
2001 Audi TT 225Q Roadster
2009 VW Tiguan SE

[VDubTech]

You shouldn't have to rebleed the system just because of adjusting it as long as it was properly bled the first time. As for adjustment, it isn't so much a question of how many turns.....that's really irrelevant. What you want is a slight drag on the drum where the shoes are just contacting the drum. Each side isn't going to be the same.....adjust them up, hit the brake a couple times to make sure the shoes are centered in the drums, pull the e brake a couple times and release it and recheck your adjustment. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes. Nothin better in the world than all new brakes lemme tell ya.
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First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=

[SGKent]

adjust the stars an equal number of turns. Do say 3 serrations each until there is a little drag. Then the other wheel. Then step on the brake, do it again say 3 each. Step on the brakes again. When the drag is even on both sides and the wheel has noticeble friction, back off evenly on each until it turns freely. Bentley has the process and also the e-brake process. We recently discovered that even the new best shoes aren't arc's as well as they used to be so they don't fit quite as well until they are broken in. If you feel one side isn't right, stop and pull the drum, look things over carefully. The rubbing can be the e-brake on the hub.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Jtast17]

Didn't think so on the rebleed.

I'll go out and follow that slightly more descriptive adjustment today. Def. ready for good...solid brakes. and tired of crawling around on the garage floor as well!

I had backed off the adjusters all the way as well of course on the reinstall.

Joe
_________________
1972 VW Westfailia
1966 Corvair Monza
2001 Audi TT 225Q Roadster
2009 VW Tiguan SE