horn operation

[radioman]

My horn sometimes blows but sometimes won't. I know the problem is with the thin brass(?) ring on the column. Mine is rather cheezy. Is there a way to improve this point of contact? Can that ring be replaced? What is the safest way to get the plastic horn piece loose so one can get to the horn contact? Do you just pry it loose and hope it doesn't break?
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It's a Southern Thing, 73, stock.
Bill

[radioman]

HELLO! I need some help here. Somebody must have a thought about this...or is my horn the only one gimpy? My parts book shows the brass? ring as a sepearate piece (at least I think it does). Can that piece be bought??? Can I solder on it?
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It's a Southern Thing, 73, stock.
Bill

[bljones]

sorry for not replying sooner, radioman, I've been asleep at the switch.
wrap a couple of wraps of duct tape around the blade of a one inch wide putty knife, and gently pry the steering wheel center cover off, at all four corners. once the cover is off you will have to remove the wheel- now you will see that that copper ring on the column switch assembly is not really a ring, but basically a circular leaf spring. gently pry the leaf spring portion toward you (sounds a little weird, but once you take the wheel off you will see what i mean) so that it makes constant contact with the copper ring on the steering wheel. give it a good clean with some sandpaper or steel wool while you are at it, to make sure you get good contact. This should solve your problem. yes, the rign part of the wheel is available as a separate part, but usually it is the column switch side of the assembly that is the problem.
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OG JHC
Author of Original Rant #1
"It stingd itself to dead... now that is control on you"

2%

[radioman]

blj: Dismanteled wheel as your instructions. The thin round ring on the wheel proper is merely a fragment of its earlier glory. Only about one inch of it is still in a condition to make contact. The rest is worn off so that as you look at it, most of it is only a very thin edge nestled in the plastic holding grove. Also, the springy ears (one at 12 oclock and one at 6 oclock) are there but each contact point has a hole apparently worn through when the ring gave up bits and pieces. I might be able to rebend these ears away from the holes (unless the are supposed to be there, but am not sure I wouldn't break them. Still I would have the problem with the ring. Suggestions? Part numbers? Supplier?
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It's a Southern Thing, 73, stock.
Bill

[Buckly]

I just had my wheel off the other day to replace the column bearing. I think I understand what your saying. If you think you need a new ring, yours is to broken up to be serviceable get a new or used one. I get alot of parts form mike at Things Unlimted. He knows the cars like the back of his hand and has many used parts. Bucky

[radioman]

Buckly: Took the wheel off again and studied it (John Muir always said SEE what you are looking at). The brass ring in the wheel proper is held with little bendable tabs. Took the ring out and made a new ring from a circle(soldered together) of 14 gauge copper solid wire and a second ring of 12 guage because the two together seemed the correct height to fill the grove. I bent the 12 ga into the wheel wire access hole so that I could hook up the horn wire. Soldered the two together which made the assembly extend just above the grove. Glued the two pieces (on top of each other) into the ring in the wheel with JB Weld. Repaired the holes worn in the "fingers" with 12 ga solid copper wire pounded into a very thing strip which was soldered OVER the holes in the ears. Cleaned everthing with lac thinner. I NOW HAVE HORN!!! Copper wire is soft I know but I suspect that this fix will be fine for many years. If it fails, I'll do it again. Cost: zero. Beep, Beep.
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It's a Southern Thing, 73, stock.
Bill

[Buckly]

Sounds like it will last longer than the og ring. Good show. Bucky
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Cool runnins,
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Bucky