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hiram6 Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006 Posts: 1880 Location: Beautiful South
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:26 am Post subject: Replacing Battery Cables |
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I did a search, but I could not find a direct answer to my question. I'm considering replacing all of the battery cables on my 85 Westy. I have an ongoing starting/charging issue that is getting me to the point of just "starting over".
So, how many feet of what gauge do i need to connect up the following:
a) starting battery in traditional spot under passenger seat
b) house battery under driver seat
c) battery isolator under driver seat
Looking to run new cable from the engine compartment up to the battery locations, and then also route cabling over to house battery and isolator.
I've found a site that will sell me 6 gauge at $1.76/ft or 4 gauge at $2.14/ft
What gauge do I need? 4? 6? Something else? _________________ 1985 Westy, 1.9L automatic (Daisy)
1996 Mazda Miata
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
You can't lie around on the beach and drink rum all day.................unless you start first thing in the morning. |
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PDXWesty Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 6246 Location: Portland OR
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:34 am Post subject: |
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I believe the main battery cable from the starting battery to the starter is 1/0 or 2/0 (1 ought) not 4 gauge. 6ga will do for the rest of it like the alternator to the starter and aux. battery. The crimp connections on the main cable are very important too. Your best bet it to take the cable out and have a shop make a duplicate with the correct length and ends. You can also order them on line from many places.
I think you'll find a lot better prices here: http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/index.php?mai...af98eab7b8 _________________ 89 Westy 2.1 Auto |
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hiram6 Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006 Posts: 1880 Location: Beautiful South
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:42 am Post subject: |
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1/0 is $4.55 per foot
2/0 is $5.39 per foot
So. yeah, your link has better prices. Thanks!!
The site I'm looking at also offers "finished" cables with choice of terminals on each end, so I'd probably order them with terminals in place.
I'm thinking of going all out with new stuff, cleaning grounds like a madman, etc. _________________ 1985 Westy, 1.9L automatic (Daisy)
1996 Mazda Miata
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
You can't lie around on the beach and drink rum all day.................unless you start first thing in the morning. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50347
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Alaric.H Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2009 Posts: 2529 Location: Sandy Springs GA
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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If it is a camper 86-91 =4/0 might as well upgrade to this. |
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78BayDriver Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007 Posts: 247
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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I am a public safety upfitter, i.e. firetrucks, police cars, ambulances etc. Any power that I run for a new vehicle, I use #4. I usually get Stinger #4 Red and Black for the work. An adequate power wire to run to the Aux battery would be #4 for charging, and good enough to use when you have to make a jump to start. Your not starting a V8 diesel, so #4 is good between batteries. I would say #2 for running to the battery from the starter at MINIMUM. 1/0 is what I would highly recomend, and a fine strand also. I do this for a living, and I plan on running new power wire in my '87, so I have done a little research. I also plan on using a remote battery selector like in a fire truck that can turn off the batteris, use one battery, or both, and select between the two if needed, that way I can charge the Aux battery seperatly from the main, so that it charges faster, use both to start (jump), or use both in an emergency for power in the van. Your choice on what you want to do with your new setup. PM me if you have any questions. You also have to remember that the wire made in the '80's was not manufactured as well as wire now. So there are going to be benefits of using modern wire than going by charts from other sources. 4/0 I think is overkill, but you'll have no resistance to read in the 8-10 feet run from the starter/altenator to the battery, and if you can find a lug connector small enough to fit on the battery/altenator for 4/0, go for it. I can never argue with over kill...
Michael _________________ 1987 Vanagon GL 2.1 Flat Stanley (present)
1991 Golf GTi Forest Green
1981 Vanagon L 1.6 Diesel
1978 BayWindow Bus
1974 Bus
1990 Jetta
1979 Dasher Wagon
1972 Beetle |
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RCB Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2005 Posts: 4143 Location: San Francisco-Bay Area
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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Real nice write up Michael...you gotta stop by more often. |
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78BayDriver Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007 Posts: 247
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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I'll try... as long as you guys answer my stupid Vanagon questions....lol When it comes to 12-24v systems, I love to figure soemthing out. Got to take pictures of my van at night when I finish the rest of the lighting. Here are some of the pics of the last power mode I just did over the weekend...
_________________ 1987 Vanagon GL 2.1 Flat Stanley (present)
1991 Golf GTi Forest Green
1981 Vanagon L 1.6 Diesel
1978 BayWindow Bus
1974 Bus
1990 Jetta
1979 Dasher Wagon
1972 Beetle
Last edited by 78BayDriver on Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:20 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50347
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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A late Bay Window bus had a 25mm battery cable that worked out to about a #4 wire and I think the starter draw is about 2/3rds of what a late Vanagon starter draws. Yes the Bay wire was shorter than a Vanagon wire, but going to 4/0 would be overkill. When I replace Bay Window cables I have not problems with upping the size to a #1, but I see no reason to up the size of an already large 2/0 Vanagon cable.
If you check the voltage on the Vanagon between the + terminal on the battery and the + terminal on the start during a cold start I would bet the value is already very low, less than 0.5 Volts. |
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87Enterprise Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2009 Posts: 134 Location: sodak
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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A good NAPA store will make up any cable you want and at the prices on this page they would be your best bet. I had mine made up and with copper cables and copper ends and shrink to fit wrap so no corrosion will every be in side of the cable. |
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hiram6 Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006 Posts: 1880 Location: Beautiful South
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:01 am Post subject: |
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Okay, some good info on here, I'm learning lots!
I'll check with my local NAPA locations and see if they do this, I must admit to not being overly impressed with the NAPA store in my neck of the woods, they seem to be more like an Advance Auto or other retail only type place.
Still, one question remains. Does anyone know the length of the starting battery to starter cable? Or am I going to have to pull mine off and have it "made to match"? _________________ 1985 Westy, 1.9L automatic (Daisy)
1996 Mazda Miata
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
You can't lie around on the beach and drink rum all day.................unless you start first thing in the morning. |
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Alaric.H Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2009 Posts: 2529 Location: Sandy Springs GA
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:31 am Post subject: |
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I cut my cable and put a stud post near the starter and run a few accessories off it including the starter. I would say you need 13-14feet from the passenger side to the starter. Measure twice cut once will apply
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Zero419 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 2160 Location: PA
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:34 am Post subject: |
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If you have the ends put on before you pull the wire, will you be able to fit it through all the holes? _________________ 1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50347
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:10 am Post subject: |
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Have you checked with VW on the price of a new cable? Most times VW prices are through the roof while occasionally they have the best price around. |
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