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Changing heads
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damicotile
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:20 am    Post subject: Changing heads Reply with quote

I am changing heads to Tims Stage 2's.
My question is, is there a trick to locking down the cylinders while removing the old heads without disturbing the bases?
Resealing those are a pain.
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ALB
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guido! Good question. If you don't disturb the seal of the bases when you take the heads off, use some tubing (a little bigger than the studs and already cut to length) and the head nuts to keep the cylinders seated. 2 per cylinder will be enough to keep them secure. Of course, if at any time a cylinder comes loose the base will have to be cleaned and sealer reapplied. What did you seal the bases with?
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think he wants to know how to lock the cylinders in place before removing the heads so getting the heads loose won't disturb the cylinder to case seal. This is a crazy idea but if you can tie the cylinders on opposite sides together with rope or strapping?? Run it over the top fins of the cylinders and tighten it down so both sides stay firmly attached to the case. Oooh, cylinder bondage, I'm getting excited! Shocked
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol
oh jeez!
Cylinder bondage?
I don't know why but that's funny to me
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No tricks to this one. Just wiggle the heads to unseat it from the cylinders. Normally this doesnt disturb the seal when i do it. If it does, just reapply sealant. Happens to one on rare occasion.
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ALB
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darth! Shocked You have a very active imagination and way too much time on your hands! Get back in the garage! Laughing Wink
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Couldn't help it guys, it's Halloween time!!! Twisted Evil
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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damicotile
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using that Permatex hi-temp black silicon. No leaks but I have had to remove the heads twice, once cuz I ate a carb manifold washer at cam
break-in and once when I thought I had a head leak and both times the barrels came loose. I resealed them but what a pain. I was thinking that if the case was drilled and inserts put in (4) beside the barrel bases, a jig type clamp which would go into the fins and then bolted to those inserts it would lock the barrels in place so the head could be removed for anything from head changes to PR seal replacements without disturbing the seal.
Just a thought.
Resealing without completely removing the barrels suck.

If I did remove the barrel off the piston would the rings have to be replaced or could you just hone the barrels and use the same rings?
_________________
'73 SB
82x94
W-120 w/ CB light weight lifters
Silicon bronze sleeves
Scat 1.25:1
CB H-Beams
Straight cuts
42x37 Steve Tims
44 IDF's
9.2:1
A-1 Sidewinder coated

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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even if you have to remove the barrels you usually don't need to replace the rings or hone the barrels unless you have a fair amount of mileage on the motor or you were burning oil.

I think drilling extra holes in the case should be avoided if possible. My 2 cents.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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