#2 side 300 degrees

[storm]

Ok guys and gals, I have a unsual problem I have never had before. I.ve build many engines from stock to 2017. I am at your mercy. Here it is, A 2017 engine 78.4x90.5, 110 cam 1to1 ratio arms, svda dist with pertronics set static 10 degrees. dual dual 44 webers 55 idles, 130 main, 190air. comprssion ratio 7.5 to 1.00.
runs still a little wooley/ from idle to say 3000rpm pulls grate connected to a 3.88 r&p freewayflyer in a 66 bus. I have temp sensors under each spark plug connected to a vdo head temp gauage. I do this so I can fine tune each carb. Number 1,3,4 running temps say idle to 40 mph I get 230 to 240 degrees. oil temp (sensor located after the stock cooler) 180 t0 190 on a 75 degree day. Number 2 head temp is 300 to 340 degrees. Cooling flaps are permatly open. have extra air entering cooling fan thru front breast plate near the starter. I've taken to 1#2 carb apart check float levels cleaned all jets and passageways, still unable to get a smooth idle from #2side. Idle screw out 1 turn. plug color light tan. This engine has only 450 miles. Any other options left would be apprecatated George.
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always ready to learn and give advice

[Vee Dub Nut]

[jfats808]

What plugs are u using and what's your gaps at? Does petronix recommend a certain gap ? On the NGK sparkplug site what number are u? Your mains are too small imo.145 or 150 depending on your vent size.7.5 should not be running super hot. Timing ok? Verify your sensors are calibrated.
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[DarthWeber]

What catches my eye is that your mixture screw is only one turn out. You did mean mix and not idle screw right? Is this for all four screws or just #2 screw? If that's the only cylinder that's really running hot I'd say it's got a bit of dirt in the circuit there somewhere.
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[Eaallred]

Try moving the gauge and sender to see if it follows the gauge or it is actually that cylinder.

If it is that cylinder i'd start checking for plugged jets or ciircut in the carb body.
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Eric Allred

You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn.

[volksterii]

[storm]

After getting feedback from 5 people. Vee Dub Nut, Idid check guage by using a lasor gun pointed next to sparkplug, hard to do in a bus but thats what our hobby is about. got 297 degrees. Ifats 808 plug using NGK bkur6et-10 gapped 25 thou. Darth Weber say dirt- read on. Eaallred says plug jets-read on. So today I got to think more. Other volume screws #1,3,4, are 1 1/2 to 1 13/4 open. go richer tems got worse. Went back to oringinal jet sizes like the other cylinders. Volume screw on #2 is 1 turn out, turn more? no change. went back to 1turn and opened air bleed screw and faintly a slight increase in rpm and smoothness. umm go leaner? or the air jet systems are dirty. Took carb and manifoid off head and notice a darker color on #2 than #1.. Well I opt to clean clean with soft brass wire and a pipe cleaner dip in carb cleaner. Stay tune to see what happens. Thanks every one so far. George
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always ready to learn and give advice

[storm]

After a through cleaning of Weber carb, got better readings - 255 degrees. I used a shopvac as a vacuum with the snail sync on top sealed good. throttles open and closed to regulate the sucktion. Used carb cleaner too. I put a coffee filter on the shopvac hose to catch any materal. Some stickie dirt was deposited. I now use prefilters on the air cleaners. george
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always ready to learn and give advice

[storm]

Well, after 5 months stored for the winter in a heated garage, now the problem is back but its 325 degrees. As with other post you guys did help me get the temp down to the other head temps of 250degrees. Idle circuit running rich had to go down from 55 to 45 to clean up the richness. the bus idles and drives strong. To refresh your memory 2017cc,110 cam, 44IDFs 190airs, 130main 45 idle just on #2side. Other the same air and main, but 55idles. Cleanning the carb again. no change. I hate to change to another carb set up just for one cylinder only. I do have a pair of 40 idfs, to make sure there is anything other that I miss on cylinder 2. Goerge
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always ready to learn and give advice

[Jody '71]

Storm,

Since you say this is a '66 Bus, you may want to go over to the Split or Bay forums regarding CHT's if you haven't already. I'm sure you have however. IMO your CHT's are too low, except for the 325 reading. That sounds just about right when cruising, expect it to go higher when driving uphill or into the wind like when you're on an interstate highway. If you start to approach 400 you're beginning to overheat. I drive a '71 Westy, 1776, with dual Kadrons and an 019 distb. Although not as fancy of an engine as yours, I have the terminal on my # 3 plug with a Dakota Digital gauge. The engine is full flowed, stock doghouse cooler with the Hoover Bit and functional flaps and thermostat. I may hit 375 on the highway, my Bus has never gone beyond 380. Normally a bad ring terminal will give you higher CHT's. The VDO gauges are well known to be not as reliable as the DD's as far as accuratley monitoring CHT's.
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'66 Beetle
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

[storm]

Thanks Jody 71. I guess my temps are not as bad as others say. I built this engine with lots of attention to detail. Not a pretty engine, just a function of facts that it runs effiency and is dependable. I will check the plug color and valves. Also I will check the sender and guage in boilling water. Thanks again. Goerge Also I have a 71 westy with the same engine compo but with 44 kadrons, with no coolings issues at all. 185oil and 275 hts 5w30 oil Gene Burg relief oil punp and cover.
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always ready to learn and give advice

[storm]

Took #2 spark plug out and the color was light black- sooty.Clean spark plug and change main air jet to 200. Engine runs not as smooth as with 190 main air jet. Head temp no change. With a 45idle jet mixture screw out 3 turns. thinking of taking carb apart again to check float level on #2carb. something about to high of fuel level in bowl. All other carbs have 190 airs, 130 mains, and 55idles with a light brown plug color. idle mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out :roll:Goerge
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always ready to learn and give advice

[storm]

Well, took bus out on a 30minute drive at 60mph at 3200rpm. Shut engine off and coasted to a rest stop.outside temp 76degrees. Let the engine cool down while we ate some lunch... Now for the fun stuff. Took out all spark plugs- they were clean eggwhite color, mains to lean. Swich to a 140main jet from a 130 with a 190air. Drove her again at the same speed and time coasted to a stop let her cool and check p;ugs- some improvement, very light tan- getting there. Again change to 150mains and plugs darker tan with darkercolor deeper inside spark plug. temps lower. The main jet circuit seem to be better. Its the idle circuit on #2 side not working. Mixture screw out 1/4 turn from bottom. has 55idle jet. air idle system proplembly plug up. Looks like I found the cultprit. I have clean this carb many times. I found another carb to switch on 1&2side. and see what happends so stay tune Goerge
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always ready to learn and give advice

[storm]

Purchase another carb, 44Weber from Spain from AirCool.net. for cylinders 1#2 side to lower head temps. The old carb is pluged in its idle air system causing a very lean condition in 2 head 350 degrees. The old carb has some blockage that I can't seem to get rid of. Will this new carb have any problems working with a HMPX carb? of the same size? I think not. George
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always ready to learn and give advice