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Flexible LED lights for interior van lighting
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climberjohn
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy,

Crafty tip on the long zip ties as a wire snake; that's a good trick.

May I ask why you went with blue?

I can see the blue for some indirect mood lighting.

But such an oft-used area like over the flip-up cabinets and stove/sink seems to require more "normal" white lighting.

What happens when you drop some blueberries or Viagra pills? You'll have a really hard time finding them!

But, to each his own, and I hope it works for you.

Cheers,
CJ
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

climberjohn wrote:
Timwhy,

Crafty tip on the long zip ties as a wire snake; that's a good trick.

May I ask why you went with blue?

I can see the blue for some indirect mood lighting.

But such an oft-used area like over the flip-up cabinets and stove/sink seems to require more "normal" white lighting.

What happens when you drop some blueberries or Viagra pills? You'll have a really hard time finding them!

But, to each his own, and I hope it works for you.

Cheers,
CJ

With the stock Kitchen lamp lit up there's enough "white" light to see bye.
The blue is for mood as well as being able to see what's there. Besides I don't use
the stove for anything more than coffee and maybe toast. I do all the cooking out
side of the van.
My stock KL isn't really stock either. The PO had replaced the Flouresant light with
three individual LEDs with their own switches inside the stock unit.
One brighter than the next, so I think I have enough White Light.
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climberjohn
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha.

I did not see the stock white light in your photos, maybe I missed it. Nice work, I do like the alternate colors for mood lighting.

-CJ
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rockfish
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other nice thing about a blue, red or orange night light is that the passenger's can turn that light on while you're driving and it won't be as much of a distraction. Not so much to read by - but if they're trying to find something in a bag, etc.
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question, I see in one picture that a C-channel peice of metal was used then another an angle one....my question is.

the c-channel would hide everything better but will this cut down my reflective area? I don't want the light directed in one spot (this is going over the cabinets.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

purplepeopleeater wrote:
Question, I see in one picture that a C-channel peice of metal was used then another an angle one....my question is.

the c-channel would hide everything better but will this cut down my reflective area? I don't want the light directed in one spot (this is going over the cabinets.
. I used that c channel and it works as you'd like it too.
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climberjohn
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

purplepeopleeater wrote:
Question, I see in one picture that a C-channel peice of metal was used then another an angle one....my question is.

the c-channel would hide everything better but will this cut down my reflective area? I don't want the light directed in one spot (this is going over the cabinets.


On p 2 of this thread, heliodon cleverly used an "L" to mount lights over the sink/stove, and a "C" to mount lights over the bench seat. This appears to be a great approach, as each shape directs lights to the proper spot. (i.e., For over the cabinets, the L shape seems a better choice.)

I recently bought from a hardware store a 4 foot strip of black C shaped aluminum, intended for track shelves, that I hope to use over the bench seat in the same manner as heliodon. I will post back here once it's up.

-CJ
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

climberjohn wrote:
purplepeopleeater wrote:
Question, I see in one picture that a C-channel peice of metal was used then another an angle one....my question is.

the c-channel would hide everything better but will this cut down my reflective area? I don't want the light directed in one spot (this is going over the cabinets.


On p 2 of this thread, heliodon cleverly used an "L" to mount lights over the sink/stove, and a "C" to mount lights over the bench seat. This appears to be a great approach, as each shape directs lights to the proper spot. (i.e., For over the cabinets, the L shape seems a better choice.)

I recently bought from a hardware store a 4 foot strip of black C shaped aluminum, intended for track shelves, that I hope to use over the bench seat in the same manner as heliodon. I will post back here once it's up.

-CJ


I think this is how i'll do it, L above the sink/stove and C over the bench.

I want to put micro switches on these however, radio shack sells really small push button ones that you can solder in...I should draw up a wiring diagram first as I want to have these come on when the doors open. and have a switch that they can be manually turned on.
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heliodon
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The aluminum sections I used to mount my Oznium linear LED strips serve two purposes: 1) they neaten up the installation and 2) they shield the bright LED light sources from the direct view of our Westies’ occupants. The trimming function is pretty subjective so we can all do that to taste. The shielding function is a more quantitative geometry / finish properties exercise. The idea would be to prevent line of sight to the LEDs (or their bright reflection) from any common, nearby point of view while minimizing obstruction to the useful flow of light.

Since the LED strip over the side counter is only viewed from one side, an L-shaped angle section is sufficient to shield the strip. The light over the rear seat can be seen from the front and the back so a C-channel used there shields the strip from both points of view. One thing I noticed while putting my installation together was that the inside surface of my clear anodized aluminum channel did an excellent job of reflecting the bright LEDs. This is good for getting light out of the “fixture” but bad from a glare perspective since the reflection was almost as bright as the carefully shielded LEDs. I worked around this by covering the offending surface with black tape (in my case leftover Velcro.) Climberjohn’s C-channel with a black finish should be a good approach – I am interested to see how it turns out.

I think C-channel would work fine over the side counter, especially if you do something to tone down the back reflection from the inside surface, but an L-shape section is better.

BTW, I recently checked the Oznium WWW site and they have a new wireless remote for the LEDs with eight-step dimming. The system appears to have two circuits but, sadly, they are only used for flashing back and forth for a "wig-wag" effect. What I would really like is a remote that controls on/off and dimming individually on two (or more) circuits.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

purplepeopleeater wrote:


I think this is how i'll do it, L above the sink/stove and C over the bench.

I want to put micro switches on these however, radio shack sells really small push button ones that you can solder in...I should draw up a wiring diagram first as I want to have these come on when the doors open. and have a switch that they can be manually turned on.



You can probably tap into the power at the drivers' side map light and run the wires back
to the shelf and then onto the rear bench. There's a constant power from this location
and putting in a switch is easy to do, but will the switch be controlling both sets of lights?
Or will you need two switches? The mirco switches that RS sells are rated for AC not DC
for the most part. They will work for what you are doing, so don't let that throw you off.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ClimberJohn you got me thinking Mood/Work light so here's my compromise.

Mood Only
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Mood with work
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Only Work
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Work plus Stock
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The Whole ShaaaaaaaaaaaBang!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'll clean up the wiring after work tomorrow and add another switch to the Kitchen panel
for the new Work light.
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'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
What the Westy wants the Westy GETS


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?search_author=Timwhy&show_results=summary

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climberjohn
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schweeeeet, I like it!

I tell ya, these Alpina lights are pretty addictive. I just want to add more and more and . . .

CJ
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markz2004
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Tim,

I like the cutting board you have over your sink. Any info on this little gem?

Mark
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

markz2004 wrote:
Timwhy wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Tim,

I like the cutting board you have over your sink. Any info on this little gem?

Mark


Not my idea Mark, but I too like it for cutting up Oranges for the Blue Moon!
I can't remember which Samba member posted the pics of their cutting board but
I too liked it.
My cutting board is Bamboo and is the perfect width of the sink, I did have to cut
the length down and cut a notch in it to keep it somewhat in place. Also there is
a notch taken out for the faucet. I think the origainal poster of the idea put
bumpers on the bottom of the cutting board to line up with the sink well for more stability.
It may have been from the What Have You Done Thread, sorry can't remember.
I'm sure some bright individual will speak up and take credit. Any way if you need
close up pics let me know?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
What the Westy wants the Westy GETS


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populuxe59
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the lights. I've seen the strip type on dealextreme for awhile but haven't tried any. Do these lights (Alpeen) handle the higher charging voltage, or do you have to add a resistor?

The blue lighting--very cool. A military guy I know told me the U.S. uses blue in it's armored fighting vehicles for night time use, while most the Europeans use red. The German tankers favor complete interior black-out, figuring that you shall know where everything is and must be able to operate in total darkness.
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started my LED conversion today, I opted for a 4ft light above the sink/stove, I ran out of LED's and need to add another in the middle and finish my wiring. I believe i'll add a dimmer in an easy to reach area.

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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.superbrightleds.com has this stuff way cheaper....however, i'm kinda of an LED newb and most of the ones on superbright look like they need power supplies. Question


http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index...xible.html
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found one more spot to put the extra string of LEDs.Tied it into my dome lights' power,
but not controlled by the door switch. I added a switch for off/on and I think it's
the right amount of indirect light on that side of the bed/back. The pic makes it look
much brighter than it actually is.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
What the Westy wants the Westy GETS


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Jake59
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was down at IKEA a saw this for $15. It is nice and clean comes with a mounting bracket that alows the bar to rotate the light 10-15 degrees. The plan is to mount it to the pop-up bar to get some light up stairs. May also get another for between the rear door and cabinet for the downstairs BR

I did checked the transformer and output is 12vdc .5 amp max, tested it from the lighter socket and it works great.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60180767
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heliodon
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I continue to work on my Westie’s lighting, albeit slowly. Back during the holidays I installed one of Oznium’s bright little 2W warm white LED floodlights over the engine bay.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This little puppy does a fine job of lighting the engine but is definitely too bright for someone using the lower bunk. So, I milled some scrap ¼” tk. diffuse acrylic to make a little diffuser for the fixture.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The diffuser is made from three circles, all 2” in diameter held together with three 6-32 stainless steel machine screws. The upper circle has an inner cutout to press fit on the outside diameter of the Oznium light’s aluminum housing / heat sink. The middle circle is just a thin ring while the lowest circle is solid. I did mill the center of the bottom diffuser to 0.10” tk. to allow more light transmission. I have been very happy with the way this works. It slips on and off easily and makes the light quite comfortable to the eye.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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