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have microswitch for full enrichment - but don't use it?
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1975 Kombi wrote:
Do you have two loose wires that should connect to the microswitch. They should be there and not wired together.


the microswitch is in good working order now. the wires were there, but the old switch wasn't working properly. I think we posted at the same time. Very Happy
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

was the old switch electrically open or electrically shorted when it wasn't pushed?
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my original reply about the switch got buried on page one...



Quote:
I tested my spare switch and it worked fine, so that was swapped in.
The 'light' test in the Bentley still doesn't work, but I can see 12 volts on one side of the switch (passenger side spade) so im not sure why the light doesn't turn on.
I then adjusted the switch position so it comes on ever so slightly before WOT (because I rarely floor it, it's adjusted for MY top end throttle position.)


I believe it was electrically open, as the original failed the continuity test once I pulled it and tested it on the bench. The spare I had was really nice and clean looking, so I was happy to swap it out. Even if I didn't yet track down my MPG woe's, at least im forcing myself to clean up some of the parts and wiring back there. Razz
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:
my original reply about the switch got buried on page one...



Quote:
I tested my spare switch and it worked fine, so that was swapped in.
The 'light' test in the Bentley still doesn't work, but I can see 12 volts on one side of the switch (passenger side spade) so im not sure why the light doesn't turn on.
I then adjusted the switch position so it comes on ever so slightly before WOT (because I rarely floor it, it's adjusted for MY top end throttle position.)


I believe it was electrically open, as the original failed the continuity test once I pulled it and tested it on the bench. The spare I had was really nice and clean looking, so I was happy to swap it out. Even if I didn't yet track down my MPG woe's, at least im forcing myself to clean up some of the parts and wiring back there. Razz


if it was electically open, then it never closed which means it never richened the mixture so your bus would look lean and get better mileage.

You might try finding a used (or new) straight pipe to replace the catalytic and then running it a few weeks to see if that resolves the issue. If it does then Emico sells new catalytics that are CARB certified and EMICO will sell to you direct very reasonable. Since you have tested compression, afm and most other things, the only reason I can think it would be rich is either a defective ECU (unlikely), bad TSII (possible if 1979 has them) or a restricted catalytic or exhaust. It is hard to believe that the gas mileage could suffer that bad for other reasons as you would see the effects. One thing that has concerned me on my bus as to gas mileage is I have no clue how I will be able to fill up to the same spot to measure mileage. My bus will accept only a dribble from some gas stations and none from others now with these new nozzles. I am thinking of taking pictures of the problem and dropping them off at Mary Nichols office since she is in the same building.
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