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clutch no disengaging even after adjustment...
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Ratt
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Joined: April 15, 2003
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Location: Puyallup, Wa
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:59 pm    Post subject: clutch no disengaging even after adjustment... Reply with quote

So after finally adjusting the carbs and getting the motor running smooth, I find my clutch won't fully disengage. I crawl underneath and turn and turn till the hoobidoobie (wing nut) stops. Try it again and still slightly engaged.

I replaced the clutch when I swapped motors. The new motor has a 4-puck disk. and a KEP pressuer plate. I used the old throw out bearing because the one that was with the new motor was destroyed.

So what throw-out bearing should I have used, and do you all think my clutch cable is stretched out and should be replaced?
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sixty9fasty
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had an issue quite the same. But it was a different disc and plate. The issue was the plate and disc interfered. It was a sprung disc with I believe a 3finger pressure plate.
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Ratt
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think that's the issue. The plate and clutch came off the same motor, the one that's now in the car.
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Ratt
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so after playing around, it seems to me that there is not enough pedal travel to disengage the clutch. I stacked washers between the wingnut and arm to simulate shortening the cable. There is no free play in the pedal and it still is slightly engaged. So I noticed there is the tab on the pedal to limit the downward travel, can/should I bend it to get the extra motion? Anyone running the KEP pressure plate know what throw-out bearing I need?
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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few things to mention here

1. on the pan, front driver's side, in front of the clutch and brake pedals there is an adjustment plate that bolts to the pan. It is the clutch and brake pedal adjustment plate. It is designed to with a slot to allow it to be adjusted to make the pedals stop in the correct spot.

2. IF your clutch cable has stretched beyond normal adjustment, spacers such as washers may be used to bring the clutch assembly into usable operation.

3. Sachs or Luk German throw-out bearing works great with all the various performance Clutch assemblies
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Ratt
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: issue resolved! Turns out I didn't change the clutch disk. And its not a 4-puck disk. Instead the disk that was in there destroyed its self. Luckily the fly wheel is ok! I just need a new clutch disk and we will be good to go.
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, let me know when you're ready for a shakedown cruise.
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