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Ultimate Westy Shower?
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Home Team Van
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oc2bc wrote:
How about replacing the standard faucet with something like this:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/sh...Mixer+Unit

And hanging the faucet out the side window. I'm planning on putting 160W solar on the Westy, which should have ample power for the 12V fridge and an onboard water heater.

Thoughts?


The reviews on the faucet weren't exactly raving. The faucet part could be pulled out and left in the sink so the lid can close. How tall are the knobs?
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wolfsburg4x4
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Energy Concepts wrote:


Warm water?
Why???


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You're right, I guess i'll scrap my plan to run copper tubing in the floor , who needs a radiant heated floor anyway ..
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

> who needs a radiant heated floor anyway

I would want one Smile, sounds perfect for apres ski and surf

I really like your marine hot storage tank too. Gets my vote for Ultimate shower.

It would work when I finish surfing, 2-4 hours after the motor of the van was turned off.

Solar showers dont work in the winter, nor in fog. On demand coolant heat exchangers dont work when the vehicle is not running. And boiling water to put in a bottle, is not an option when youre standing in a dripping wetsuit.

Here is my current shower setup, 2.5 gallon jug, hose reaches a gas station sink, to fill the jug with hot water.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

No batteries required. Stays warm for 4 hours wrapped in a towerl or wetsuit. When I get out from surfing, 50F water, hands numb, dumping hot water on my head makes me smile.
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oc2bc
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea about the height of the handles, it was just a quick Google search for combination marine shower faucet. There are a few options, it seems. I think the big question for me is power consumption for the water heater. One thing at a time...
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wolfsburg4x4
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oc2bc wrote:
No idea about the height of the handles, it was just a quick Google search for combination marine shower faucet. There are a few options, it seems. I think the big question for me is power consumption for the water heater. One thing at a time...


I think finding a water heater that doesn't require a ton of electricity will be next to impossible. Since you will need a storage tank to keep the hot water anyway, you might want to go with the coolant heated version and just run the motor for a brief period if you aren't driving to get somewhere anyway.

I might have gone with the smaller 1.6 gallon one if it was available at the time, but hey I've got enough hot water for at least 4 showers, so if I'm in the hood, feel free to stop by for a hot shower Smile

If you really want to go solar, then the roof mounted water panel could work, they are waaay more efficient at capturing solar energy than electric panels, if there is sun..but discreet plumbing could be difficult for a poptop

I like the idea of capturing free energy from the motor for showers etc, but I guess it can take away from the "get away from it all" aspect of travelling in a westy, so it's not for everyone
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To me, ultimate means fairly simple, inexpensive and small, with no setup time, and reasonably effective.

Using the on-board water, the stove to heat the water, and the existing pump to divert water out to a shower head would be pretty ideal. If there was a heat exchanger similar to but maybe better than the Zodi that you could place on the stove and divert your tank water to a shower head, that would be cool.
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J Charlton Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:47 pm    Post subject: on demand Reply with quote

I'm a fan of "on demand"
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=2300B700
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vanis13
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reviewing that link, incl the shower head attachment, I'm a fan too. Pretty cool
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

compare features

coleman on demand, 5 gallon, about $250
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

1. uses 1lb propane bottle, good for 40 gallons of water
2. hand fill the 5 gallon plastic reservoir, weight is 40 lbs
3. you need to store the unit somewhere, it weighs 25 pounds empty, 75 pounds full. Can be moved outside the vehicle, if you can lift it.

isotemp marine hot water system, 4 gallon, about $700
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

1. hardwired into vehicle coolant system, no propane
2. hardwired into vehicle water supply
3. mounted on vehicle, weighs 23 lbs empty, 55 lbs full, not portable.

==
additional issues with the isotemp instal, filling, pumping, and delivering the hot water.. Ultimate complexity.. see wolfsburg4x4 page 3, the following is heavily edited
> I fill this tank through a fill port where the 2wd fuel filler is located
> a variable speed high flow on demand pump located in the battery cavity under the driver seat.
> to a dedicated 4 gallon heat exchange tank ( heated by engine coolant ) which is mounted where the spare tire used to be and then is then returned the sink cabinet area.

please post pictures of spare tire mounted isotemp if possible Smile

==
Here is the poor mans isotemp, about $200. I nominate it for the Ultimate diy Shower
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

see davevickery page 2 for details

==
and the zodi extreme about $160
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cwphoto
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:25 am    Post subject: Another Eco-temp set-up Reply with quote

Hi Folks:

Some great ideas here. I'm posting a link of my own setup which uses the eco-temp. I think the pictures are pretty much self-explanatory, but if anyone has questions just give a shout.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9769028@N07/

Troy
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cwphoto
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:36 am    Post subject: Add'l comment... Reply with quote

I just wanted to add a little bit to my response yesterday. I have tried the Zodi units as also own a Coleman hot water on demand. The Zodi's are a joke. The pumps are weak, and once you turn the pump off the heater keeps going. So, next time you turn it on you get scalding hot water. Just what you want with a face full of shampoo! They only have about a 30° rise, so one has to recirculate the water to get it hot enough. Overall, a joke. Never used the pressure tank one, but looks kind of big? The concept is simple and simple is good! No pump to break or fancy pressure regulators. Will have to try one as it looks interesting.

I used a Coleman unit for several years, and it worked out fairly well. I put a quick connect on my surflow faucet (the type they use in Eurovan's) and that way did not have to use the 5 gallon bladder style tank. The unit was a little bit finicky about consistent pressure, burner lighting consistently, etc. I liked the fact you could take the unit over to a stream and put the pump in the water and have hot water for dishes etc. without using the onboard water system. It has its merits.

The eco-temp is 37,000 BTU and is the best by far I have owned. The on-demand pressure pump was the key to making this work, but it works extremely well, and great water pressure. 5 secs for 120 water. See my previous post on how I set things up. I like David's idea as well, but like to take showers in the morning and don't like the fact you have to warm up the van to get water.

All kinds of great ideals here! What a great thread.

Troy
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


63L tank under the right side.Immersed pump.
outlet from a hose hook up from which I removed the check valve.A switch with a toogle boot.

PVC fittings ,hose,shower head.

That's cold water for now,but later when I'll put it on the syncro,I'll use the 2WD gas filler to fill it,the coolant lines will go through the tank with a built in exhanger+solar exchanger+on demand if needed gasoline eberspacher heater,smaller than a shoe box Cool

For now that's enough for after surfing ,it's not cold here,3 years that I'm taking cold showers almost everyday at the beach as I live in my van.

Bye!
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cwphoto
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Jon_slider"]compare features

coleman on demand, 5 gallon, about $250
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

1. uses 1lb propane bottle, good for 40 gallons of water
2. hand fill the 5 gallon plastic reservoir, weight is 40 lbs
3. you need to store the unit somewhere, it weighs 25 pounds empty, 75 pounds full. Can be moved outside the vehicle, if you can lift it.

Here's another perspective:

I own a Coleman unit; it does not weigh 75 pounds! Good grief. I would say the unit weighs more like 15 pounds. I used a quick connect on my sur-flow faucet that eliminated the bag altogether for inside van use. The bag is a collapsible 5 gallon type, and yes it's no fun to lug around. You can take the Coleman and put the inlet in a steam or other water source for dishes and such or use a smaller water source size. It doesn't need to be a collapsible 5 gallon type.

Before I switched over to the Eco-temp, (see my post about my install above) I used this unit for several years. I still have it and it does have it's place. It's very nice for quick water use inside the van, particularly when hooked directly to the faucet. A $10 quick connect from Home Depot and some 3/8" tubing is all that is needed for the conversion. Naturally, for indoor use you want to keep the interior ventilated.
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

> I own a Coleman unit; it does not weigh 75 pounds! Good grief.

my apologies

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Water-Demand-Portable-Heater/dp/B0009PURE0
Product Details

* Product Dimensions: 20 x 20 x 13 inches ; 29 pounds
* Shipping Weight: 25.7 pounds

5 gallons of water weighs 40 lbs

40+25=65, not 75 pounds, my mistake Smile

Thanks for the great first hand review of the Coleman On Demand, and the ecotemp.. very nice work.
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syncroserge
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Webasto has what they call the DualTop in diesel only..

Hot air and water in one unit...a ton of money though..

http://www.webasto-outdoors.com/heating/dual-top/application-example.html
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cwphoto
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider wrote:
> I own a Coleman unit; it does not weigh 75 pounds! Good grief.

my apologies

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Water-Demand-Portable-Heater/dp/B0009PURE0
Product Details

* Product Dimensions: 20 x 20 x 13 inches ; 29 pounds
* Shipping Weight: 25.7 pounds

5 gallons of water weighs 40 lbs

40+25=65, not 75 pounds, my mistake Smile

Thanks for the great first hand review of the Coleman On Demand, and the ecotemp.. very nice work.



My point as well is you are not picking up both of these at one time or as a unit. Again, you do not have to use the 5 gallon collapsible bag, you can use any water source as long as the pump is immersed. Anyone owning a Westy can use a quick connect on their faucet and eliminate the hassle of the bag. From there one could run the shower wand out the window or sliding door for showers. Considering it's basically a turnkey system it does have merit. When I used mine, I routinely used it at rest stops to heat up some quick water for tea. It can produce something like 150° water from tap water. Flow goes way down at those temperatures, but it's pretty versatile.

The eco-temp overall is just a much better product, but it does have set-up time involved. There have been a number of occasions for me where it just stays in the box as I don't want to bother to set it up. It probably only takes about a minute and a half to do, but it does have various hoses and so forth to put away after the fact. Not exactly practical at a rest stop...Great for overnight use. Not sure how it holds up to the weather either, wind can sometimes be a problem for propane.

I think David's idea has a lot of merit as well. I could see where a person could take this a step further, insulated the tank and add a cold water inlet and mixing valve and basically make it a hot water heater. The temperature could then be increased 180° and it would extend the water usage considerably. Then, even with the engine being off for some time (overnight) you would still have warm water. With his current setup I would think the temps would drop pretty quickly. 45mins sounds like a long time to heat water too. A copper coil I would think would offer greater heat transfer. Still, another ingenious design. I'm totally impressed with what people come up with!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Parts Listing for the Aqua-tainer shower setup Reply with quote

davevickery wrote:
So the parts for this setup include: Total about $185 + shipping
1. 4 gallon water tank, “Aqua-tainer” from Sportsman’s warehouse - $10. I used an Atwood “gas scan” boat tank on my first one, 6 gallons with pickup built in.
2. 12V Solenoid Valve, normally closed, ¾” output. P/N 2W200-20-12VDC. Found on Amazon.com for 35.50+ shipping
3. Two brass fittings to fit the solenoid valve. ¾” MPT to 5/8 Barb. From Ace hardware $6.99/ea.
4. 1 Brass 5/8” barb connector or could use a coolant barb connector from autoparts store. $3
5. 120 degree thermostat (limit switch) opens 120, closes 110, cuts off power to the solenoid when it hits 120 - $19.95+ shipping from mwands.com. There are lots of other places to get these but finding this temp was a little harder. I also found a 90-130 adjustable limit switch somewhere. Siloconed it to bottom of tank.
6. 1 GPM Shurflo Nautilus pump - $46.36 Found on Amazon.com
7. 8’ of 5/8” heater hose from any autoparts store - $10
8. Two 5/8” coolant elbows from autoparts store. $3/ea. Don’t use landscaping parts from Home Depot for coolant system parts, they melt eventually.
9. Two PCV grommets to seal the heater hose openings on the tank. Dorman Part # 42344, $3/ea. Found at autoparts store. This was tricky finding the exact size grommet. Holes in the tank drilled to 1 3/8” for this grommet (I had a step drill bit that was that size)
10. Hose clamps, red and black wire, on/off switch for pump from autoparts store. – Total $20
11. 10’ of 3/8” clear plastic hose to connect to pump and shower head, from Home Depot - $4
12. Shower head. Tub showerhead adapter, $8 at Walmart has shower head hose and end that goes over a tub spout that you cut off. It is simple and cheap. Something to hang it off the door.

The solenoid valve supposedly gets hot when energized for long periods (it does). I may add a cover over it. Will have to see how hot it gets (as high as 220-230). If you want to keep your rear heater, you would need 2 tees instead of the one barb connector. Pex ¾” tees are the right size and you can get them at Lowes. If you do that, you need and extra on/off switch for the solenoid since you won’t be able to use the rear heater switch. I used 6’ of hose inside the tank and that loops around the bottom of the tank 1 full wrap then again up and out each hole. That seems to be the right amount of hose. I’ll test the effect on the engine temps (no effect on stock engine) and see how quickly it heats up the water (45 minutes for 4 gallons of cold tap water 55 to get to 110 degrees). In a Subaru-vanagon, I had to add a bypass to keep the flow rate low enough not to cause the engine to get hotter than normal. This Aqua-tainer doesn’ t have built in pickup, so when you feed the 3/8” hose into the tank, you try to lodge it under the coolant hoses so it is on the bottom of the tank.






Hi,

Ive been inspired by this shower set up and starting working on my own. Im curious as to why you installed your solenoid valve in the location you did. The upper hose is the return and lower is the supply , right? Or is your hose setup reversed for some reason?
It just seems to me that even when you aren't powering the solenoid the bottom supply hose and the tank hose will be heated, thus still heating the water. Wouldn't the solenoid valve need to be connected to the supply line? Any help understanding this a bit more would greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I was cutting it off at the inlet. But I guess if this is backwards it doesn't make much difference because it worked great. It definitely doesn't continue to heat up after it reaches it's set point.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cwphoto wrote:
................. A copper coil I would think would offer greater heat transfer. Still, another ingenious design. I'm totally impressed with what people come up with!


Ummmm..... NO!

You need to recognize that COPPER (your proposed heat transfer coil) and ALUMINUM (a good portion of your engine and cooling system) HATE each other and seek to destroy!

If you pursue this, use aluminum or Stainless steel for your transfer coil and other bits. Do not go introducing copper into an already trouble prone cooling system.

Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:57 pm    Post subject: hot water Reply with quote

Blue Bay Bus Coleman on demand, 5 gallon, about $250 . I use one of these, they are great. Tired a Zodi yes a joke, well it will take cold water and make it almost room temp. And a Bus Depot add a room. Can set up the Coleman in less then 2 min. The add a room in 3 min. And if you are at a mountain stream with no people around you can just throw the pump in the water and take a shower for 20 min. Used at BBB with 100's of people around no one knew I was in there! Very Happy
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