In the mood to get my Thing lifted.

[mikeyj007]

I'm just about ready to get my Thing lifted. I'm interested in a moderate 2" to 4" suspension lift. I'm not sure exactly where to get the parts. I read through the forum to find as much information as I could. I know there's a bit of debate on the topic but was hoping to get a few opinions and hopefully a few up to date links on the parts to order. If it's possible to get them all from one company that would be even better.

I'm thinking weld in adjusters for the front.
For the rear 2 notches on the outer spline with 1" longer trailing arms and KYB GR2 shocks.

Anyone had any luck keeping the stock CVs or will I need to spend the big bucks for 930 or 944 CVs? I don't plan to offroad it, just prefer the look of a lifted Thing.

Are these the ones to get?
http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=15378
http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1451/AC530012-E/


Right now I'm running a 1641, double barrel weber, stock tranny, 15"x7" rims, 205/75R15 tires, with front disc brakes.

Previous discussions on this topic: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...mp;start=0
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...mp;start=0

[bomberbaja]

Well for the front you could get a nice set of lift spindles from tweeds designs

[It's a play thing]

I think you have a good plan. 1" over rear arms work and fit great. and you should be able to get a little more height by cutting and turning the front end. Iam not sure about the CV stuff , mine was all shot ,so when I replaced them I went with 930 stuff.
_________________
It's not the size of your shop, it's what comes out of it that counts.

I've been playing with my thing ever since I got it...

[mikeyj007]

Thanks for the tip on the spindles. A 3" lift would be great and it looks like they can make them work with the speedo and disc brakes. If I'm replacing the spindles then I might as well go through the steering components since they're on the to do list as well. What all parts do I need to get it back to "new" condition? Any reason to replace or beef up the stabilizer bar? I don't plan to do any off roading.

Left and right tie rods, steering damper, bushings, shocks, steering box and?

http://www.thethingshop.com/prodinfo.asp?number=181415802
http://www.thethingshop.com/prodinfo.asp?number=131415801F
http://www.thethingshop.com/prodinfo.asp?number=113425021
http://www.thethingshop.com/prodinfo.asp?number=181%20KF-KYB
http://www.thethingshop.com/prodinfo.asp?number=181498101
http://www.thethingshop.com/prodinfo.asp?number=113415061C


http://www.tweedsdesigns.com/img/pages/spindles/spindles_AS-thing.html

[dells68]

You're on the right track, but I would check to see which parts are the same as a standard beetle. Most of the parts you listed are interchangeable with a beetle with the exception of the long tie rod, as it is a little heavier on the thing (stronger). If your tie rods are in good shape, I'd just go with new ends. Check out CIP1 or other suppliers as these generic parts are usually much cheaper through them.

Dell

[uberautowerks]

Here's a small novel for ya Mikey....

Weld in adjusters on the front of a Thing will get you about 2" before the ball joints bind up at full extension.

The 1" longer arm from Moore is a nice piece. But... it has no provisions for mounting shocks.

Shock mounts can be welded on, but NOT in the stock location for either upper or lower mount

2 OUTER notches on the rear will get you about 3" of lift. It's also all the stock CV's are good for AND you'll need to notch the spring plate for "Droop" or down travel clearance or it will ride REALLY REALLY bad.

Standard Beetle Tie rods ('69 and later) are a perfect fit.

Your stock anti-sway bar will work just fine. If you do feel the need to beef up the front anti-sway bar you MUST add a rear bar to maintain balanced handling.

Lastly... Stock size KYB GR2's would be near perfect, maybe a bit rough. I prefer these front and rear, but they are a bit pricy ($35 each), especially when you add in the required front mounting kit ($26 each).
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-413-031-E

Questions?
_________________
--- The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair.
- Douglas Adams -
---
'74 Thing (White)
'71 Single cab (White too)
'70 Weekender (White three)
'05 Evolution VIII (White also!!!)
'68 F-250 (White over black)

[surfarii]

If you use longer boxed in arms your emergency break cables are not going to be long enough.
I cut a piece of 1"x .120 tubung and welded it through the arm to accomadate mine. I made bolt on shock mounts and bump stops.

The bigger CV's are too heavy on bearings in a stock trannyI was told . I went through all of the trouble to put 930 cv's on mine . A week later I talked to the guys at Rancho and they said to take them off . To get the max amount of drop with stock CV"s without the CV's pulling on the axle clips I machined a an 1/8" spacer to go between the stub axle and CV. It has worked for me.

Let me know if you want pics

John

[cecil]

If you want to talk to some one who has "been there, done that, and broken this" with a 2 1/2" lift, try Sam. You can find him in this forum, last spotted at the "going to Bug o rama " site. The guy drives like he has a death wish.

[mikeyj007]

Thanks for all the info. Does anyone make trailing arms that don't need the shock mounts added on? I'm always a big fan of pictures if you have them available.

[Crazy Coop]

[saddlesore1]

Love it!!!! Another one headed down the same path. I have the up Yer Bug 3" Body Lift, Cut, turend and adjusters in the front, Mckenzies 1" longer by stock. I changed the tortion bars to stronger ones for the addional weight of roll cage and kids/people in the back on big woops. Mckenzies has 2 shock mounts standard. Spend the extra 75 buck and get 930 CV. Cost minus selling yours to someone else. Yes you do have to leghthen the tubes out of the rear end of the chassie for the E brake then Lengthen the cable at the ebrake handle with a long nut and bolt. I would avoid the longer spindles. Not as strong as the other methods. If you have any questons let me know. I have gone through the gammit of surprises and have over com'ed them all.

[mikeyj007]

I seem to be stuck at the same spot. After checking with McKenzies and Avery's Air Cooled, nobody makes 1" longer trailing arms that allow you to use the current shock location. They both require you to add shock mounts for the bottom and make your own for the top. Rather disappointing especially considering the steep $640 price tag for McKenzies. Avery's suggested I build a full cage to attach the upper shock mount to. I'm not a welder or fabricator that's trying to build an off road monster. I'd just like to give my Thing a modest lift. Are there any other options out there?

[uberautowerks]

Why are you so stuck on 1" longer arms?

When a simple 2 spline adjustment will get 3" out of the rear with the stock arms, stock CV's and stock shocks.
_________________
--- The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair.
- Douglas Adams -
---
'74 Thing (White)
'71 Single cab (White too)
'70 Weekender (White three)
'05 Evolution VIII (White also!!!)
'68 F-250 (White over black)