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69calibug Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2004 Posts: 506 Location: Hamburg, NY
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:05 am Post subject: '68 Beetle- No Turn Signals, Brake Lights, or Horn |
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I'll start by saying I have no wiring knowledge at all. I really need to learn some simple skills. Going to go find a test light now. I'm in a time crunch to get this car ready for the weekend. It's been restored, and has been driven regularly for a while, and everything worked. There is definitely evidence that wiring work has been done though. Issues:
-No brake lights at all. I cleaned the contacts at the master. I'm stuck at that. If I have to replace either, I have a '69 I can rob parts from. There are 2 extra wires just chillin by the right switch. (Both are 2-prong). I have no idea why- maybe they just ran new wires and left them there.
-No turn signals. The flashers do work fine, but I have to jiggle the switch a bit at first. Does that eliminate the flasher relay as a possible problem?
-No horn. The least of my concerns, but it still needs to be fixed.
-Headlights, tail lights, markers, reverse lights all work fine. I can't see any evidence of chewed or burnt wires anywhere.
So basically, the car has just been sitting for a month of summer since the day I realized I had no brake lights. Suggestions? _________________ '69 Beetle, '69 Beetle Convertible |
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Dismas Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 184 Location: Reno, NV
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:18 am Post subject: |
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Do you have a multimeter?
If not, go to harbor freight and get a cheapiue so you can test continuity . .
Then, check the fuse, making sure you have 12v available to the switches at the master cylinder . . if the fuse is good, and you can find 12v at the m. cyinder, then you need toi have your kid step on the brake pedal while you test across the contacts on the m. cylinder . . when the pedal is pressed, you should get 12v on the other side of the switch . . if you are getting that, go downstream to the lights . . have the kid step on the pedal again, and see if you get 12v at the center terminal spot in the bulb mount . . if no, then the problem is between the switch and the light, if yes, then double check your bulbs . . if bulbs good and have 12v, then you need to ensure your ground is good. |
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Dismas Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 184 Location: Reno, NV
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:22 am Post subject: |
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for the turn signals, I have not done any hands on work on vw turn signals yet, so will defer that to someone else . .
for the horn, vw did a screwy method on their horn, to save the cost of a second slip ring . . they insulate, then energize the whole steering column, then after the switch, ground it down a wire near your steering coupler . . check for 12v from your steering column to any ground on the car that is NOT on the steering column . . if you have the 12v, then you need th chase the ground action thru the switch and down the cvolumn |
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69calibug Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2004 Posts: 506 Location: Hamburg, NY
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:30 am Post subject: |
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Thanks. I actually have a nice digital multimeter I've never used, with a complicated dial i don't understand. I just moved to the middle of nowhere by myself and have nobody to even step on the pedal. Tired of relying on the dozens of people that promise to help and don't come through. I actually have a mirror set up behind the car so I can see the tail lights from the driver seat. _________________ '69 Beetle, '69 Beetle Convertible |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26324 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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I really think you have a bad fuse. All those things run off the that first fuse on the left. Sometimes the metal tabs from the fusebox that hold the ceramic fuses in place cuts through the metal on the fuse and ends up riding on the cermamic - when that happens, the fuse still looks good but has a bad contact, so check for that too.
Just put your on 20VDC
-Andy |
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