anyone running an unpressurized system?

duderanchero

so, my '91 carat is still running, but still leaking coolant along the passenger-side head gasket. i've got some subaru conditioner in there, and it seems to have helped somewhat (even though it's not supposed to actually repair existing cracks...). i'd like to replace the gaskets, but i'd rather do it when i have a month to screw around, as i don't really know what i'm doing.

i had thought before about running a no-pressure system, per morymob's descriptions, and i'm wondering how it would hold up in the western states (extreme temps, high passes, and so on). i'm not sure i fully understand the procedure either--drill 1/16 hole through blue plastic, fill/bleed system as usual? i guess the deadly bubbles will work their way out through the res cap?

i'm also wondering why my low-speed fan doesn't seem to come on, despite having replaced the switch...

thanks for any input. without these forums, she would just be a little maroon cabin in the woods.

james

Ahwahnee · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:47 pm Post subject:

If you wanted to experiment with this I wouldn't think any drilling is necessary -- I'm thinking the pressure valve/check valve in the (usually blue) cap on the pressure tank can be carefully disasssembled and the inner bits (spring & valve seat?) set aside. If you're careful and keep notes the hack would be reversible.

I have not tried running w/o pressure (though I have taken a cap apart and reassembled it) -- wonder if it would cause the van to run strangely?

morymob · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:10 pm Post subject:

Only since '92 and on my 5th WBX. Got rid of all the pesky leaks,split hoses etc and if cooling sys is cooling properly you can't tell it's been done. In your situation should cut down on most or all your leak until until u get repaired . Gotta jump in my hole now as the 'flakkers' are coming out.By the way i've been only in temps of 106with humidity so don't speak for the desert but if it's cooling and temp not rising just what is the degree level??? Also pressure is for all purposes -zero as it bleeds out and coolant returns from o'flo normally.

duderanchero · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:11 pm Post subject:

that's a thought. but would pressure escape readily, or do you think it would just build up and release? i guess there's one way to find out. but i do also have an extra pressure cap, so i wouldn't mind drilling it out.

duderanchero · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:13 pm Post subject:

ah, morymob! thanks for popping out for a visit. i think i'm gonna do it!

presslab · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:37 pm Post subject:

Use an 80% antifreeze mix. It will boil at a higher temperature than 50/50. You're close to the boiling point because you're not running additional pressure over atmospheric.
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duderanchero · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:41 pm Post subject:

that is probably sound advice on the 80/20 mixture, but i cannot bring myself to buy any more coolant. it's $20/gal for sierra, and i just poured a couple gallons of it all over west texas. at least i won't kill any kittens! well, not with antifreeze anyhow...

r.e.wing_fc3s · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:58 pm Post subject:

ive read that coolant is less efficient at cooling an engine.= higher temps. thats why many high performance engines recommend 60% h20 40% coolant. if you want to go no pressure i would switch up to evans npg.

presslab · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:06 pm Post subject:

duderanchero · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:30 pm Post subject:

reading through some past threads, i just want to make sure i have it right. i'm supposed to drill all the way through the pressure cap, right? like through the blue plastic and the thingamajob beneath it? the whole idea is the exact opposite of everything i thought i knew about how the cooling system works, so i want to double-check before i do something stupider than usual.

Ahwahnee · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:24 am Post subject:

Well I'll stand by my prior comment that you can just 'gut' the thing of its innards and get where you're going -- but if you want to drill somewhere I don't think you want it all the way thru the cap.

You want to just open a passage to the hose to the expansion tank so coolant can still overflow and be drawm back in without (much) loss. Otherwise you'll have a mini geyser back there as the engine heats up (and you'll be topping up the coolant daily.

morymob · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:36 am Post subject:

Only thru the metal round disc , somewhere towards center.

IdahoDoug · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:44 am Post subject:

FYI, before you go to much trouble, I used two containers of the Subaru conditioner due to the larger system capacity. Both HG were leaking and it stopped them completely. I intended to drive it for a week or so since I know nothing about what else might need attention, then tear into it. Worked perfectly. I plan a double flush, then replace the coolant after a month afterwards. So it you put only one in, consider another before messing about.

DougM
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

bluebus86 · Banned Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075

better have a tow company number handy and a cell phone, you might eliminate the pressure, but if the leak returns the water will still spill out and you might over heat the engine, making matters worse, use extreme care, good luck

Zeitgeist 13 · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 10:38 am Post subject:

I assume folks around here have gotten into heated arguments before about Evans Coolant.
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presslab · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:08 pm Post subject:

Ahwahnee · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:47 pm Post subject:

They also state that it was developed for racing -- seems unlikely to me that any sanctioning body would allow anti-freeze on the track.

Nothing to do with cooling, eveything to do with spilled antifreeze being slicker than snot on a glass door knob.

duderanchero · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:29 pm Post subject:

idahodoug, i think the subie stuff may be helping (i used two bottles, and i have a third), but i like the idea of taking pressure off the gaskets anyhow. i know the increased pressure raises the boiling point, but when it does boil over, it's a real disaster. i have the system drained now, so i suppose i could test out the unpressurized system with straight water first to make sure no immediate catastrophe occurs.

Captain Pike · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 3:41 pm Post subject:

Stop with the stop leak, you may clog an old rad that way. Perf the cap,get a new one when you fix the head gaskets. Don't procrastinate all summer and think this is an OK fix, it only buys time to get to the parts store to fix it properly. Better carry LOTSA water(3 gallons) in case "she blows".
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IdahoDoug · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 3:59 pm Post subject:

Don't run straight water more than an hour while you're doing cooling stuff. Anything needing rust or corrosion protection may suffer faster than you realize - bearings need lube in the water pump, etc.

DougM
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader


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