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Land speed car chassis design thoughts
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WickedWagens
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only thing bad about the 268mph record is that everything has to meet spec for 268 mph. Tires are going to be very expensive.
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WW
That's one of the things that worries me, I need to get the name of the tech inspector that Burly sent me, I forgot to write it down before I deleted it. I want to make sure they know that this car will be built for running in "The 1 Club" only and will only have a 36hp VW motor [for now] there is no way it will ever be capable of 268 mph and the tires I want to run are "Goodyear Drag fronts" which should handle any speed a 36hp should push the car.

Casey
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The guys name is Dan Wright, of the USFRA, he was more than helpful getting my buggy tech ready BEFORE I left on the 1400 mile trip to B-ville and answered all my questions no matter how trivial they were.

I got through tech with Goodyear front runners no problem. At $500 a piece LSR tires are a bit pricey Shocked

brad
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK
Got around to working on my front beam a little today, man it looks short, its not welded up yet just slide together...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Its only 16" over all, with the trailing arms and spindles it will have a track width of about 35", I'm going to make the coil over mount on the upper arm, it may even be done with push rods with the shocks parallel to the beam. It will bolt to the front of the frame so I can change it out if I have too. Now if I can figure out how to get the rear track the same.

Casey
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you going to build the caster angle into the chassis? Nice work on the end pieces!

brad
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Roadcow
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some nice work Casey! You have talent for sure!
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brad & Roadcow
I figured I would make it adjustable, What caster setting works best for a LS racer? I'm going to make 2 mounting plates with pivot holes at the bottom and the middle and top hole will be radius slots, and these will weld to the frame. Thanks about the end pieces, It comes in handy when you have access to a water jet machine.

Casey
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69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
https://time-zonelabs.blogspot.com/p/about-kelly.html
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

earthquake wrote:
Brad & Roadcow
I figured I would make it adjustable, What caster setting works best for a LS racer? I'm going to make 2 mounting plates with pivot holes at the bottom and the middle and top hole will be radius slots, and these will weld to the frame. Thanks about the end pieces, It comes in handy when you have access to a water jet machine.

Casey


Buddy, Pal, Amigo, access to a water jet huh???? Laughing Just joshin'

I think I ran about 5.5 degrees of caster. My beam is layed back 1/2 an inch and I ran 2 sets of caster wedges. my car had a pretty good rake to it but it handled like it was on rails. I momentaily let go of the wheel at the mile on my second run to see what it would do. It just kept going straight. I think some of the drag racers run about 10* so I'd say somewhere in between 5*-10*.

brad
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avus
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 10:57 am    Post subject: caster Reply with quote

http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,431.0.html
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36hplandspeedracer
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slalombuggy wrote:
The guys name is Dan Wright, of the USFRA, he was more than helpful getting my buggy tech ready BEFORE I left on the 1400 mile trip to B-ville and answered all my questions no matter how trivial they were.

I got through tech with Goodyear front runners no problem. At $500 a piece LSR tires are a bit pricey :shock:

brad


The new guy to contact about 36hp Challenge tech questions is BJ Burkdoll at the address below:

[email protected]

BJ will be one of the two 'dedicated' 130 Club and 36hp Challenge tech inspectors overseeing our entries so he will have the final say on what is acceptable and what is not. And 'he is a Volkswagen owner' ! ! ! ! How cool is that.

The beam is looking good! ! ! !

Burly
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK
Been doing some thinking about drive train lay out for this streamliner, I have acess to a 944 5 speed trans and torque tube. how would it be to mount the motor/motors in the front and use the 5 speed and shorten the torque tube and have the driver compartment in the rear?

Casey
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly I think it would be a waste of time with a 36er. Your losses through transmission of power through a torque tube and a big, heavy (WAY overbuilt for your purposes) gearbox would pretty much kill the motor. I'm sure HP losses through the Porsche box would be approaching the 20-25hp range

I think you'd be way better off using a VW transaxle, which is a pretty efficient piece of engineering as far as power transfer losses. The Porsche box is also geared for a car with around 200hp and good torque.

A 5-speed would be of little benefit unless you were headed for the big track. I was shifting into 4th at just past the 3/4 mile marker at 7200 rpm at 110mph

brad
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Roadcow
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with our friend from the frozen north. I think that if it were me I'd use an early split case trans, those in the know say that the splitcase has the least friction loss.
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea
You guys are right, I got to looking at a little better, the 944 trans-axle is pretty bulky and looks heavy. I am still thinking about the rear drivers compartment though, Is there a name for streamliners that are shaped like a rectangular box with a smooth nose?


Casey
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Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
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WickedWagens
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a vw 1500cc diesel. Pretty rectangular.
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G/CFALT 106.643 MPH
G/CGALT 113.131 MPH
G/CBGALT 134.606 MPH
G/CBFALT 146.715 MPH
G/CBGC 158.242 MPH
H/CPRO 93.383 MPH
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John Moxon Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an interesting aside to the discussion, have you seen this configuration: http://deltawingracing.com/

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Narrow front beam with stock width rear end. You could use an adapted, reinforced VW floorpan with irs drive-train and normal rear engine position. Good stability, weight over the driving wheels, with little need to reinvent the drive-train.

Of course the DeltaWing project is high cost, high tech but as a complete novice in all this a low cost version seems quite doable to me.
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Something with a nose like this?

brad
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Unkl Ian
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem with trying to use a convention VW or Porsche rear end is
the difficulty in changing drive ratios, and the range of available ratios.


As far as layout, look at the fast cars.
http://speeddemon.us/
http://bonnevillestreamliner.com/
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK
Since I'm still in the design stage of my car [can't afford to do much more] I'm working on a body shape, I am thinking about a modified "bowling pin'"shape with a tapered tail. Has this been done before? Will the wasp waist hurt aerodynamics? It will be flat on top except for the wind screen in front of the roll cage that will be blended in to the body. does this sound like it will work, should it be flat bottomed or left open underneath? Thanks for any help.

Casey
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74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
https://time-zonelabs.blogspot.com/p/about-kelly.html
DEATH TO CHINGERS!
[From a military recruitment poster in the novel "The Stainless Steel Rat" By Harry Harrison]
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go with a flat bottom. The more YOU can control the air flow the better. As for the bowling pin shape. Works good at supersonic speeds, but can't see much need for it at sub-750 Very Happy

I found a great tech article online discussing aerodynamcis, virtual and wind tunnel testing, I'll see if I can find a link and post it for you.

brad
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