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Building an offroad split bus
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will also mention B D R to plate underneath the cutting / steering brake to keep the floor flexing to a minimum. Think about it, any other master cylinder is mounted to some sturdy metal to resist the pushing force it takes to make the brakes work, and this is just a hand master cylinder.

Well the cheap, quick front end lift worked and works very well. The EMPI coil over shocks made for baja's work on the front of buses and do not make it ride like a war wagon. This will suffice for this season until I pull the beam and do the cut-n-turn. They are set on the lowest coil adjuster setting.

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Crawled up under again to seal up the peddle pan. Here is a busy shot of all the brake lines, tubes, rods and heater ducts. For non-bus owners, you can see the undercoating line that defines where the peddle pan covers. That tiny area is the only place to mount the steering brake and get the business done.

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Had to go a little industrial and finally put my Bice Bumper on the front. I have had this thing for almost a year and am tired of tripping over it. Note the parking sticker on the front drivers side. It is from UC Berkley University and expired in June 1983. Think of where this bumper has been in its life.

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And finally, the license plate. I searched for some time and found a WV '59 plate. The SCab PO gave me the plate frame. The wife was miffed about the plate frame and I still do not think she believes me when I tell her it is about the VW, not her. Also check out the original dealer sticker just below the plate.

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slammedcamper57
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

any progress here?
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am done building on mine until winter. Just driving it.

If I would do anything now, it would not be drivable for a good while. My next step is panel replacement.
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i_am_cool_fred
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

question, when you do a trans drop like that on a bus, and run stock sprign plates, does it affect toe?? seems like the further down the plates are in the circle the closer the axles would be to the front of the bus.

does that make any sense?? it does in my head
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i_am_cool_fred wrote:
question, when you do a trans drop like that on a bus, and run stock sprign plates, does it affect toe?? seems like the further down the plates are in the circle the closer the axles would be to the front of the bus.

does that make any sense?? it does in my head


You are correct.

On mine, the notch I made in the spring plates only allows the wheel to drop/droop 1 inch farter than stock. This small amount of increased wheel travel downward is only for articulation on my bus during transversing rough terrain.

What the tranny drop did for my purposes is to lower the inside swing axle tube pivit point. This allows for the wheel to have less/neutral camber at the same spot as it would have positive camber in stock form. This allows me to run a taller tire and clear the wheel wells. (I will be welding in new wells this winter).

So, as I run down the highway, the wheels are in the stock area of travel as they are normally, keeping the toe very close to stock and not scrubbing my tires. The severe toe in only happens when I am traveling slowly off road where tire wear is not important.
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Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

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i_am_cool_fred
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gotcha, so stock height when it comes to overall suspension, yet less camber allows for more movement and taller tire, where you would gain the height, that wouldn't of fit in stock form due to camber...so toe is not affected at all...question 2 (lol) with the axles pointing more straight out than in a downward angle does that push out on the spring plates when riding at stock height like that?? or is that again, a lesser of evils persay.

edit: you are running 6" wide centerlines in the rear on rgb and will be able to fit the rear fender wells on it??? dang, and to think i sold my centerlines when i went to stock height.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i_am_cool_fred wrote:
I gotcha, so stock height when it comes to overall suspension, yet less camber allows for more movement and taller tire, where you would gain the height, that wouldn't of fit in stock form due to camber...so toe is not affected at all...question 2 (lol) with the axles pointing more straight out than in a downward angle does that push out on the spring plates when riding at stock height like that?? or is that again, a lesser of evils persay.

edit: you are running 6" wide centerlines in the rear on rgb and will be able to fit the rear fender wells on it??? dang, and to think i sold my centerlines when i went to stock height.


I am not at totally stock height. I did re-index slightly. 4 outer splines down and 4 inner splines up. It gave me about a 1 1/4 inch lift, which almost matches the tranny drop, but still does not go out of the "stock" spring plate area until axle drop off roading. Without the notch in the spring plate, it was about 1/8 inch from hitting the bottom stop.

I do not understand the second question of pushing out on the spring plates. I did not widen the axle tubes, so the spring plates are in the stock location on the axle RGB's. It does not push out on the spring plates.

The centerlines will not be staying on the bus when the wells are back in. I have a set of 5.5 Ansen wide 5 rims that will go on it and fit up under the wells. A full set like the shallow one in this picture:


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Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

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i_am_cool_fred
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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as you can see as the swing axle follows a radius, at the closest to 0 degres it gets the longer it woudl be to the spring plate, if the space from spring plate to transmission is the example 4.25" (we'll say) and you straigten it out, you gain nearly 2" distance from mounting points to transmission vs. what was stock, so i would think it'd push the plates out a bit, would it be enough for the plate to pop out of it's retainer, i dunno.

this is a rough example of what the axle does, may not be near that drastic on an actual vehicle.

but, after asking this question, i do realize that you have adjusted your plates to where you gain a bit over 1" of clearance, which would help compensate for the trans. drop. so my question may be unimportant.

edit: sorry, the mathematician in me is coming out a bit...sad thing is i'm a graphic artist for a living.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understand what you are saying now.

The overall width of the mounting surface of the RGB's has not changed, so the spring plates will not be any farther apart than when it was stock. During stock use, the axles articulate from axle up to axle down, so the spring plate still cycles the same width because the transaxle width has not changed.

At full drop/droop, the spring plates are still twisted like stock and tucked in at the lower stop. No risk of them missing or popping off the lower stop ledge.

Your diagram only depicts 90* of movement. It is not showing the drop/droop side that is a mirror image. The axle does not travel 180*, but I get your point.

The wheel actually only travels about 8.25 inches total, so 4.125 down from straight/level to 4.125 up from straight/level. Mine is currently set up about 1 inch down at the wheel from straight/level at rest and I have about 3/125 inches of downward travel and 5.125 inches of upward movement when the bed is empty.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the answers, one more question, nt suspension though, you running ansens, you have early drums right??? will you have to machine the drum/wheel for clearance on the hub?? i've kinda been lookign at the new empi ansen look alikes lately.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These Ansens are the originals. They are cast to clear the front brake hub snout.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm in the middle of my trans drop. got it set in today. alignment and welding later.

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notice how i did not move my cradle lower only the horns. giving a true lift in the rear.


jb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work! How much of a lift are you gaining with this? 2"? I might try to swing by and check out the progress.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it will be about 2". enough to level out after the bay beam.

come on by. evenings after 5 are best. gonna get it welded in this week.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
notice how i did not move my cradle lower only the horns. giving a true lift in the rear.



Lowering the cradle does give a true lift, it just does not give any additional clearance. Dropping the tranny with the cradle or sectioning the cradle will result in the tranny in the same lowered position.

I like you style of dropping the tranny the best. I would have done mine that way for extra clearance if I had seen it or thought about it.
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Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ first page mayn Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should still be simple to just trim the bottom of the cradle.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cage66 wrote:
Should still be simple to just trim the bottom of the cradle.


It is, but never had an issue with it dragging, yet.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I figured as much. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive been woking on this single cab all winter-spring.disk brake bay beam mounted 4 inches lower, bay rear, corvair 110 with power glide, 7.00 15 tires
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