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P7rns Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2007 Posts: 145 Location: Northern England
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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:57 am Post subject: Axle Nuts |
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Can Anybody tell me whats the best way to remove axle nuts on 64 buses, and what size socket fits ?
Thanks |
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Andrew Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2000 Posts: 5865 Location: Who in the what now?
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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:21 am Post subject: |
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http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036
If you have big nut reduction boxes, though, you will have to make an adapter to change from 36mm to 46mm, but pictures of how to make one can be found here in the forums by searching. Otherwise, these things work awesome. _________________ -Andrew |
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AlteWagen Troll
Joined: February 23, 2007 Posts: 8503 Location: PNW
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bugcollections Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2007 Posts: 795 Location: Texas
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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:33 pm Post subject: Axle nuts |
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46 mm socket and a very good air wrench after soaking with something such as PB blaster. |
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ach60 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2001 Posts: 4139 Location: Santa Maria
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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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My choice because everybody has a BFH and $10:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7045
This tool has been designed to remove the rear axle nut for brake inspection and service. The removal of this sometimes frozen nut is accomplished with a force greater than that of an impact wrench. To use- simply remove the cotter pin holding the axle nut on and place the tool over the nut. Insert a standard 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet- applying arm pressure- then strike the tool with a hammer knocking the nut loose. Fits Bus 64-79 & Vanagon 82-92 _________________ Good Luck
Al |
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Andrew Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2000 Posts: 5865 Location: Who in the what now?
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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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ach60 wrote: |
My choice because everybody has a BFH and $10:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7045
This tool has been designed to remove the rear axle nut for brake inspection and service. The removal of this sometimes frozen nut is accomplished with a force greater than that of an impact wrench. To use- simply remove the cotter pin holding the axle nut on and place the tool over the nut. Insert a standard 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet- applying arm pressure- then strike the tool with a hammer knocking the nut loose. Fits Bus 64-79 & Vanagon 82-92 |
I have one of these as well, but I was always nervous swinging the BFH with any sort of force so close to the body of my bus, though. _________________ -Andrew
Last edited by Andrew on Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:46 am; edited 1 time in total |
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JoelH Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2003 Posts: 1312 Location: North Dakota
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daniel5560 Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2003 Posts: 260 Location: Western Mass
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:56 am Post subject: |
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Use either the tool mentioned above that you hit with a hammer or get a one of those big giant 1" impact guns. Ive used both and never failed to get an axle nut off. |
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P7rns Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2007 Posts: 145 Location: Northern England
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:25 am Post subject: |
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what is PB Blaster and where do I get it ? |
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Andrew Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2000 Posts: 5865 Location: Who in the what now?
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:45 am Post subject: |
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P7rns wrote: |
what is PB Blaster and where do I get it ? |
http://www.pbblaster.com/
Being in England, you may not have access to it like we do here. You can get it just about anywhere on this side of the ocean. _________________ -Andrew |
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P7rns Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2007 Posts: 145 Location: Northern England
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Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:34 am Post subject: |
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I dont know if its the same stuff as your PB Blaster, but I sprayed what we Brits call WD40 onto the axle nuts and with a bit of persuation and jumping up and down on the bar the nuts came loose !!! |
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DownRiver Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2003 Posts: 797 Location: threeonethree
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Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:40 am Post subject: |
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We have WD-40 here as well.
PB blaster is a penetrant. WD-40 is a lubricant.
Both will work, but the PB Blaster, Kroil or similar will work a ton better. _________________ Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right. -Henry Ford
VanSlyke VW Doublecab |
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Clara Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2003 Posts: 12401
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Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:52 am Post subject: |
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Pull ebrake hard.
If your ebrake doesn't work, chock the wheels so the bus doesn't roll. (Fix your ebrake whether it is an adjustment issue of the brake shoes or broken cable or whatever.)
Remove cotter pin.
Use 46mm socket on 3/4" slide bar.
Often I need the 5 foot cheater pipe on the slide bar.
Place pipe a bit up from horizontal and stand on it. I hold the drip rail for balance.
You really shouldn't need heat etc. In fact, if the axle nut is torqued to 250 ft lbs (which is should be), you can just stand on the slide bar and not need the cheater pipe. Do not use the cheater pipe when installing the nut. grease the splines so the drums doesn't rust in place, and the threads to the nut, and to torque it stand 1 foot out if you weigh 250 lbs, or further out if you weigh less (do the math). 2 feet out if you weight 125 lbs. In between if you weigh in between.
Then see if the cotter pin holes line up... bounce on the bar till the cotter pin holes line up and don't forget to put that cotter pin in.
Torque on the nut is something like 217 to 250 ft lbs.
The whacker tools can be useful, but I worry that it could be bad for the bearings. So I prefer the socket.
If the drum doesn't come off, there are threads for stuck drum issues. It is a not uncommon problem on buses that have sat a while.
WD-40 is a lubricant, but not a penetrating oil like PB Blaster. _________________ The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/ |
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pyrOman Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003 Posts: 12409 Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Hijack! (Sort of)
Though WD40 is a lubricant, its uses have other limitations as such. Namely, you do not want to use it to lubricate a stubborn keylock as it will also dissipate any existing grease. While it may "help" the situation at first, it will recurr more often after using WD40. If you must use it there, make sure you take it apart later and grease it properly. Or just take it apart from the get go, repair, grease it, and be done with that. _________________ Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise. |
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FlusteredBust Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 217 Location: St. Pete, FL
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Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Like Clara said, chock the wheels real well. I used a 4' cheater bar along with my 18'' breaker bar, and had no problems. To remove the drum, make sure you loosen both adjusters as much as you can. To me, peering into that little hole and finding and loosening the adjusters is actually the biggest pain in the whole process. |
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Mortimer Bondurant Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010 Posts: 40 Location: The Channeled Scablands
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Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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Dredging up this old thread because I just twisted the 3/4" drive off of a Craftsman 18" breaker bar. It had a 1" adapter on the business end into a large nut socket. On the other end was a 36" cheater bar with me standing on it and my son whacking it with a nut tree knocker in the area of the breaker bar. This worked fine on the passenger side rear but the driver's side rear is not budging. 1967 Deluxe. My questions are:
1. even though the front spindle on the drivers side has reverse threads , all three other spindles including this one are counter-clockwise to remove, right?
2. We've been soaking it for a week in 3-in-1 oil. I've never seen PB Blaster for sale. Should I look harder for PB?
Thanks.
I guess I'll try heat too which is mentioned above in this thread. |
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jlarsen Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2005 Posts: 39
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Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:32 pm Post subject: axle nuts |
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yes - both rear axle nuts tighten by turning them clockwise and loosen by turning counterclockwise. Kroil is another effective penetrating and lubricating product as an alternative to P.B. Blaster.
jim |
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Mortimer Bondurant Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010 Posts: 40 Location: The Channeled Scablands
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Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, Jim. Also, in my haste, I gave you a few pieces of bum information. I ruined a 1/2" inch drive going into a 3/4" adapter and it was an ACE brand breaker bar, not Craftsman. |
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ldsvwguy Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2003 Posts: 1020 Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
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Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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X2! Plus this works on the gland nut if you ever need to replace the flywheel. |
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guatebus Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2003 Posts: 393 Location: Oakland, CA
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Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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Mortimer Bondurant wrote: |
Thanks, Jim. Also, in my haste, I gave you a few pieces of bum information. I ruined a 1/2" inch drive going into a 3/4" adapter and it was an ACE brand breaker bar, not Craftsman. |
You pretty much need all 3/4" hardware to get the axle nuts off. The 1/2" stuff tends to break. Using the proper tooling, it's not too hard to get them off.
One of the big things is making sure the bus holds still when you're torquing off the nuts. I'd block the wheels AND make sure the e-brake is on. You can even get an assistant to step on the regular brakes as you work in back.
I don't recommend the "whacker" tool, but you can weld one to a big length of pipe to make a great axle nut removal tool. Or upgrade to the 3/4" breaker bar, as mentioned above. _________________ '64 standard microbus
'69 deluxe microbus |
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