Mercedes 15x6.5 Alloy Wheel Mods

[davevickery]

I picked up a nice cheap set of OE Mercedes 8 hole 15 x 6.5 ET 37 wheels and want 215 width tires. I have previously modified some other 8 hole MBZ wheels for my syncro but never for a 2wd. I didn't need spacers for the syncro.

What I did before was buy a large bit to deepen the bolt holes, then use a 60 degree tapered bit to get the right seat, and finally used a 9/16 drill bit to open up the bolt holes from 12mm to 14mm.

I'm wondering how hard it is to remove the rear studs and replace them with longer ones. Having done it the other way, I am guessing that might be easier, especially on a 2wd where you have bolts up front that can just be replaced with longer ones.

So these are 15x6.5 with ET of 37 and 12mm ball seat bolt holes. Center hole is fine. I am thinking small spacers (maybe 5mm) up front with longer bolts and no spacers in rear (or maybe the same as the front) and install longer studs if they aren't too difficult to install. Then I just need to buy rear studs, longer lug bolts and lugs nuts with the right seat and spacers. I figure that is around $120 in parts.

Any thoughts on this? In particular how easy it is to replace the rear studs with longer ones. Thanks

PS. I looked through the sticky but couldn't figure out how to find the info I wanted in the 80 or so pages.

[mackaymanx]

1st post

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=298574

[FNGRUVN]

The rear studs are easy to replace once you have the hubs off. Drive the old ones out and either press the new ones in or just hammer them in. Just be sure to back up the opposite side that you're hammering on. I used a deep socket.

Loogy has all the hardware you'll need at a good price. I would go ahead and replace the front bolts for studs if I were you. It makes changing a tire a lot easier.
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[ALIKA T3]

Will the M14 radiused ball nut or bolt fit your M12 hole rebored??
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[davevickery]

If I drill the bolt holes with 60 taper bit, I would just have to get longer tapered bolts for the front if I even need spacers and I would need tapered rear nuts since I don't have stock alloys now.

That is cheaper than doing it "the right way"; getting longer rear studs, screw-in studs for the front and small ball seat lug nuts. The right way would cost:
$36 for front studs
$49 for rear studs
$40 for lug nuts
and spacers I can get on ebay for $20

If I drill them myself, I still need longer tapered lug bolts up front and tapered nuts in rear and maybe spacers. That will be about $60.

It's not really that much difference in cost to do it right I guess.

[chojinchef]

Just call Loogy. Same deal on my van, he set me right up.

http://t3technique.com

LP
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Its a mistress; an expensive, whiney, needy bitch of a mistress. She is a chunky, dirty girl with bad skin, little motivation and yet she always makes me smile. She sure has been around before shacking up with me. She has a direct line to my wallet, plays with my emotions, is consistantly jovial yet with a sarcastic and sardonic side, is consistant in her inconsistancy, and every once in a while gives me a great ride and a fantastic memory.

[shadetreetim]

I emailed Loogy. He was very helpful, gave me several options to ponder, and fast responses. FWIW, I have 15" Mercedes ET37 wheels and used 7MM front, 15MM rear spacers. The rears still set further in than the fronts, but without the spacers the rear really tucks under.
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[davevickery]

I am half way through this job. Drilled out the Mercedes alloy wheel holes. 9/16 didn't work, and I couldn't find a drill bit in the size Loogy(Chris) suggested, so I used my 5/8. When I did this before, I think I used 5/8 also and don't recall any problems.

These OEM Mercedes 8-hole ET37 15x6 1/2" wide wheels fit on the front without spacers, but just barely. A wider tire than 205 would hit. The inside wheel weights hit anyway. An 8 mm spacer looks like enough room. But I wonder if a 225/60/15 would fit.

Loogy's front stud replacement for the bolts is nice. For the front I got 51.5mm and with the 20mm thick mercedes bolt holes, they fit perfectly, with the stud just barely coming out the end of the nut.

I could not get the rear axle nuts off to save my life. Big breaker bar with extension, jumping up and down. Penetrating fluid, Heating it. Took it to Discount Tire and their monster air hammer did it in 2 seconds. But I'm pretty sure I loosened it up for them.

So tomorrow is the rears, replacing the studs. I did not get these from Loogy, which may have been a mistake. They may not be long enough. Besides the spacers which can be found cheaply everywhere, getting the lugs/bolts/studs from Loogy (t3technique.com) seems like the way to go. Probably there is a reason his spacers are more expensive, but I used the cheap ones last time and didn't have a problem. If you get the front studs, there is no issue lining up the bolt hole and the spacer and trying to get the tire on, like it is without the front studs.

[chojinchef]

My wheels were an aftermarket version of the Mercedes 8 hole wheel. Did not need to drill holes out, and ET was different, as I did not need spacers and have plenty of clearance.

Will have to look under van to see what ET was, curious now . . .

My spare is a stock MB wheel and that one needed drilling.

LP

Update: mine were 15x7's. Sorry for misinformation.
_________________
Its a mistress; an expensive, whiney, needy bitch of a mistress. She is a chunky, dirty girl with bad skin, little motivation and yet she always makes me smile. She sure has been around before shacking up with me. She has a direct line to my wallet, plays with my emotions, is consistantly jovial yet with a sarcastic and sardonic side, is consistant in her inconsistancy, and every once in a while gives me a great ride and a fantastic memory.