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Testing for slow battery drain
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renobdarb
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:06 pm    Post subject: Testing for slow battery drain Reply with quote

Is there a way to track down the source of a slow battery drain with a voltmeter? I have a ohm meter but not a test light.

The battery reads 12.45 on the meter, and when I disconnect the negative cable and put one connector on the cable and the other on the negative post it reads 12.07.

I'm trying to track down a slow battery drain and wondering if this test is telling me there's a drain somewhere.
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Vince Waldon
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reading voltage in this situation can be highly misleading... does your multimeter do milliamps??

You're looking for a current draw... so your best bet is a meter that can read current. A little bit of current draw (10-100 mA) is normal, depending on what your clock and/or stereo draws... hundreds of mA suggests a light on somewhere, 10s of amps suggests a stuck regulator relay (if generator equipped) or a shorted alternator diode.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Testing for slow battery drain Reply with quote

It's not telling you what you want to know. What you want to measure is current, not voltage. Does your meter have a current range (preferably 10 amps)? If so, use the exact same hookup (meter in series with the negative cable.) DO NOT turn on anything. Don't even think of turning the key on. In fact, make sure the front dome light switch is set to the middle (disabled) position, so that it doesn't light up when you open the door.

Now note the reading on your meter. If it's very low, try a lower range. You should read between zero (no stereo) and 0.1 amp (stereo). If you have a stereo, disconnect the "keep alive" full time +12 volt wire (yeah, you'll lose all your settings, but that's life...) Does the meter read zero? No? Start pulling fuses one at a time until the current goes to zero. Whatever is hooked to that fuse needs to be checked (see the schematic in your manual / site Technical section.)

If you still have current flow with all the fuses removed, then pull the big red hot wire going to the voltage regulator, and if you have an alternator, the big red wire going to it (not so easy...)

If that doesn't get it, then you have something strange and non-stock in your wiring. Look for things that look 'modified' or non-stock (they tend to stand out...)

If you don't have a suitable meter, a dome light bulb will work pretty well in it's place.

[Edit: wow - I'm a slow typer...]
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Testing for slow battery drain Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:


If you don't have a suitable meter, a dome light bulb will work pretty well in it's place.


how about this?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



tp
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static
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the tutelage of a smart Engineer friend, I did the above exercise awhile ago and it produced two culprits: the dome light (presumably the door switches, not actually the light itself) and the stereo.

Now, I remove the stereo's faceplate when I park for more than a day and I set the dome light to the "middle" position. I am still drawing a very slight amount (I love me my FM presets) but nothing like before.

Oh, and the greatest improvement? Replacing my car's battery with a shiny new one. (The argument "But it's only eight years old" doesn't work)
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ned
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Tom Powell, I like your style. No need for a socket for that lamp, just solder the wires to the lamp. Fast and efficient.
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I had this problem in the Bronco it was a leaky diode in the alternator. not going to find that with a milliamp meter
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ned wrote:
... No need for a socket for that lamp, just solder the wires to the lamp. Fast and efficient.


and you can hook it up lay it on the ground and look in the side mirrors to check power to the coil etc.

tp
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A Voltmeter will work fine, especially an old analog one. Just remove the negative cable from the battery and hook the meter between the cable end and the battery post. If you have a big drain you will see full battery voltage on the meter, a lesser drain will show less voltage.

Pull all the fuses and see if the drain goes away. If you still have a big drain with the fuses removed it is probably the diodes in the alternator. A smaller drain with the fuses removed may mean that your radio or some other add-on accessory is not fed through a fuse.

Assuming that the drain went away when the fuses were removed, replace the fuses one at a time to see which fuse the drain is on.

You may well have more than one drain, which can make trouble shooting tough. I once worked on an old pickup owned by a rich MF, who had used it on his country estate for years while maintaining nothing. It had five different drains on it when he finally gave up on it and brought it in to have it worked on. PITA to figure them all out.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
When I had this problem in the Bronco it was a leaky diode in the alternator. not going to find that with a milliamp meter

Depends on the meter. The average Fluke, for instance, should show it up just fine. [The problem with the average Fluke is that it is too sensitive. Five ranges; maxes out at 2 amps, unless you have a plug-in 10 amp shunt. If it doesn't show a reading, the leakage is insignificant...]
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Last edited by telford dorr on Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Testing for slow battery drain Reply with quote

Quote:
how about this?

Yup, that'll get it. A piece of large shrink tubing around the base of the bulb and sticking down 3/4" would make it perfect.
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renobdarb
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Testing for slow battery drain Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:
It's not telling you what you want to know. What you want to measure is current, not voltage. Does your meter have a current range (preferably 10 amps)? If so, use the exact same hookup (meter in series with the negative cable.) DO NOT turn on anything. Don't even think of turning the key on. In fact, make sure the front dome light switch is set to the middle (disabled) position, so that it doesn't light up when you open the door.

Now note the reading on your meter. If it's very low, try a lower range. You should read between zero (no stereo) and 0.1 amp (stereo). If you have a stereo, disconnect the "keep alive" full time +12 volt wire (yeah, you'll lose all your settings, but that's life...) Does the meter read zero? No? Start pulling fuses one at a time until the current goes to zero. Whatever is hooked to that fuse needs to be checked (see the schematic in your manual / site Technical section.)

If you still have current flow with all the fuses removed, then pull the big red hot wire going to the voltage regulator, and if you have an alternator, the big red wire going to it (not so easy...)

If that doesn't get it, then you have something strange and non-stock in your wiring. Look for things that look 'modified' or non-stock (they tend to stand out...)

If you don't have a suitable meter, a dome light bulb will work pretty well in it's place.


Thanks for the help, guys... it was basically a matter of getting my voltmeter set up and set correctly. When I finally figured out how it should be set up to read amps, I got a reading of .80 amp and started pulling fuses. When I pulled fuse #7 it dropped to .10 amp.

I'm almost certain my wiring has remained stock so I think the only thing that's on that fuse is the fluorescent light that's above the sink and stove. Last summer I re-did all the interior paneling, and in the process removed that light (which didn't work anyway) but not the wiring. Would having just the wires loose like that cause that fuse to drain the battery?
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it isn't wiring unless one of them is lying in water or some corrison that is dielectric. If you had a short you would see a lot more current. Is there anything else on that #7 fuse besides the light?

#7 is accessories - do you have a refridge, a power amp, a clock, a fan - etc
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Testing for slow battery drain Reply with quote

renobdarb wrote:
... Would having just the wires loose like that cause that fuse to drain the battery?


Could be. Might be if the power wire to the switch is grounded behind the paneling. What else does #7 fuse supply power for?
tp
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your stereo work with the #7 fuse removed?
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timo78
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have your assistant watch the voltmeter, then start removing/reinserting fuses. When you get to one that has an effect, then determine what is on that lead. I had a VDO clock back in the day that would drain the battery. Contemporary stereos can have this trouble too.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:25 pm    Post subject: Parasitic Battery Drains Reply with quote

Hi looking at the light bulb tester I started thinking (man it hurts) about the amperage rate of the bulb. That looks like maybe an 1156. Using an 1156 27w as an example the rated amp is 2.10A. That being said it takes 2.10A to fully light the bulb. I don't know how much it takes to make it just glow. But lets compare a test light to it. Most test lights take 500 ma. If I remember right with the introduction of computers they came out with a 200ma. test light so you would not fry the computer. See were I am going. If the Draw is to small you will not see it. I found a great article on Parasitic Draws. If you do not have a meter. (that is another topic) After reading this you will want one. The article also touches on alt. diodes. Good Forum Good Luck

ParasiticBatteryDrains
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about the LED DC test light that they used to sell at radio shack? Maybe pulls 20 ma at 14 vdc? Build one from a red LED in series with an 820 ohm resistor and a 1N4001 diode (to protect from a reverse connection.)
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renobdarb
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Does your stereo work with the #7 fuse removed?


Yup. So does the dome light and the 12V accessory socket I installed a couple years ago. The only thing I didn't check was the sink pump. The fridge was out of commission long before I had the slow battery drain.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There were some videos on youtube for testing for parasitic battery drain. Go on there and do a search - was informative.
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