Aluminum Case Crack

[BearBroth]

...so I bought a brand new aluminum case a few years ago from the local VW parts house and I am finally building something with it. The motor has been assembled and disassembled twice but has never turned on under its own steam (first time it was configured for T3 cooling with 85.5 P/C, then for T1 upright cooling with 92 P/C, and now finally opened it up to 94 p/c and going back together as a 1914 with dual Kadrons).

My problem is that while removing the plug for the oil bypass in front of #1 cyl. a small chunk of aluminum cracked off the very edge of the sealing surface where the gasket/seal goes. The outside of the casting seems very porous and I suspect this condition probably contributed to the weakening of the area.

I now doubt I will be able to seal this plug effectively and I'm stumped as to what to do. I've been contemplating using (gasp!) JB weld or some similar product to take up the space (about ~3X5mm chunk), or using an O-ring instead of the steel gasket.

I'm not sure if I know any other way to do this without welding and remachining this area.

All ideas and suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

TIA.
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[79SuperVert]

I don't know the answer to your question but I do like your Arendt quote.
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[Dale M.]

Are you referring to plug at end of oil galley behind flywheel (behind #1 cylinder) ???

IF so, have case TIG welded by "certified" welder (aluminum experience) and drill and tap it for a plug....

The "bypass" phrase is confusing because the "bypass" (valve assembly) is on 3/4 side of case and you mention "behind #1 cylinder" ..

Picture of problem would bring a lot more clarity to issue...

Dale
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[jfats808]

Since you already had it machined, the case is unreturnable. You already probably realuze this. See if you can have a welder skilled in aluminum welding to take a look at it. Best case is grind down the weakened area , fill it in with tig, and retap the galley. Poor mans fix is jb weld and likely never be able to get the plungers out from it being sealed. Not promising, sorry .
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[BearBroth]

Dale, you're probably right and I got the name wrong. It is right behind the flywheel right by #1 cylinder. I apologize for no pic, I wasn't home when I posted but I'll post one when I get home.
it's a shame because it's such a small piece but it's right at the sealing surface.
its not really the thread I worry about, its the flat surface the gasket seals with. This might have to be spot milled me thinks.

By the way, I was not intending to entomb the plunger in the bore with JB, just build up the missing chunklet of aluminum along the wall of the thread.

The more I think about it, the more welding seems like the way to go. I'll post pics in a bit when I get home. Perhaps yall have a better alternative.
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"It is possible to store the mind with a million facts and still be entirely uneducated."
- Alec Bourne

[BearBroth]

Thanks for the nod on the quote Supervert. It's one my favorites.
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"It is possible to store the mind with a million facts and still be entirely uneducated."
- Alec Bourne

[RockCrusher]

[BearBroth]

I apologize to all in advance... the crack is behind cylinder 3 not one (got my case halves cornfused... duh).

But on the upside... here are some pics.
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"It is possible to store the mind with a million facts and still be entirely uneducated."
- Alec Bourne

[Type 5 Joe]

I think the easiest repair would be to set the case up in a milling machine, and plunge an end mill down on the sealing surface slowly until it cleans up the chipped away spot.

Record the depth of cut, and make an aluminum spacer on the lathe for the screw in plug.

That sucks, the material looks really crappy in the casting.
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[Dale M.]

Actually measure the depth of the threaded area to the bypass hole and measure the plug.... Apply a really good sealant on plug and thread in till you are almost to depth of bypass hole but not plugging it.... It should be ok as it appears you only damaged the first 1-2 threads and may have 3-4 remaining threads to "hold" plug....

Verify the bypass port is not plugged by running in a wire or drill bit from inside case to verify port for bypass port is open....

Other option would be to have it TIG welded and go through all the steps to have it drilled and threaded and verifying bypass port is not blocked....
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[BearBroth]

Thank you all so much for the advice.

Unfortunately, my reaction is typical to most humans faced with disaster - the 5 stages of grief: Denial, anger, negotiation, depression, and acceptance.

I denied there even was a crack for a few days, and now I'm trying to bargain my way out of it by some miracle solution.

I am going reluctantly to try the sealant method but I know that the correct way to repair this is the machining method.

Wish me luck... I'll update if/when it bleeds like a stuck pig.

Thanks again!
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"It is possible to store the mind with a million facts and still be entirely uneducated."
- Alec Bourne

[Shadd]

I know that it probably sounds like a half assed redneck fix, but hear me out. At one point when I was daily driving my 61 bug the little ear under the oil cooler cracked off. Not only does this support the oil cooler but it has a machined surface that seals the oil galley to the cooler. So just as a temporary fix I decided to JB weld it back together. I cleaned everything with solvent and sculpted the JB weld into a perfect replacement for the ear. I let it dry for 24 hours and reinstalled the seal and cooler. Although I was always scared that it would let go and leave me stranded it held just fine. I never really got around to fixing it right. I drove it like that for two years before I replaced the motor for other reasons. All of that being said, I think that you know that the fear of a poor repair can make a quality repair worth the cost, even if both of them hold up.

[mark tucker]

millet, no not the bird food.millet and be done,no taping ,no welding, no sealer.you can shorten the plug where the spring seats if you wish or just use a stock spring.

[didget69]

...Mill It?

bnc
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