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need help for my cooler system type 4 2000cc aircooled
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.gray wrote:
Does it look like this with the vented cover in the lower part of the picture?
That's for the Air Conditioner set up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


sorry i`m new in westfalia´s......and yes is the same cooler....in the engine compartment appear two hose (eliminated) connected to this cooler...but back to my previous question, which has connected the air filter at the top?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pablovent wrote:
sorry i`m new in westfalia´s......and yes is the same cooler....in the engine compartment appear two hose (eliminated) connected to this cooler...but back to my previous question, which has connected the air filter at the top?

Yes that's the remnants of an air conditioner, that's the condensor.

As to the air filter question there should be 2 hose fittings on it, one for the crankcase breather and one for the fuel tank vent (#28 here):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And you could indeed have a 2 liter engine, many foreign markets got carbs instead of fuel injection on thier 2L's until the late 80's.
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
pablovent wrote:
sorry i`m new in westfalia´s......and yes is the same cooler....in the engine compartment appear two hose (eliminated) connected to this cooler...but back to my previous question, which has connected the air filter at the top?

Yes that's the remnants of an air conditioner, that's the condensor.

As to the air filter question there should be 2 hose fittings on it, one for the crankcase breather and one for the fuel tank vent (#28 here):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And you could indeed have a 2 liter engine, many foreign markets got carbs instead of fuel injection on thier 2L's until the late 80's.


yes, the crankcase hose is connected to right side air filter top in this moments, then the other hose connect to fuel tank....thanks Busdaddy!!
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

finally use 7,5 cr aprox, is well for run not hotter!!, the piston arrow for the flywheel side and the numbers in the rods up position...but need install oil temperature gauge (vdo)... but, where installing a temp sender?? type??.....
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Generally oil temperature senders get installed in the oil inspection plate or "taco plate" on the bottom of the engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cylinder head temperature senders get installed at the #3 spark plug as described here...

http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/home.php?gspage=customer/main/tech/cht/cht_install.tpl
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Generally oil temperature senders get installed in the oil inspection plate or "taco plate" on the bottom of the engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cylinder head temperature senders get installed at the #3 spark plug as described here...

http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/home.php?gspage=customer/main/tech/cht/cht_install.tpl


Thanks Randy in Maine, my engine overheated and had to repair it completely, the axial metal pressed on the crankshaft, and pistons melted!, still do not understand why happened? ...I have repaired many vw type 1 engine perfectly, but this is my first type 4, have any idea why it happen?.... Now be installing temperature gauges ... where install the oil pressure sender?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil pressure sender (for the OP light) is located in front of the distributor as you know.

You can either 1) enlarge the hole in the tinwork to install a VDO "di-pole sender" that will give you the OP light and the gauge, or 2) you can put an 18 inch "extension" at the stock OP location and mount the di-pole sender on the firewall.

I did #2 and used this little gizmo, but the hose they give you is only 12 inches long so I used an 18 incl long grease gun hose that I bought from the local auto parts store. The threads in the case for the stock OP sender are 10mm x 1.0mm so keep that in mind or it will leak oil. The sender has to be well grounded to work right so no teflon tape is used.

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
The oil pressure sender (for the OP light) is located in front of the distributor as you know.

You can either 1) enlarge the hole in the tinwork to install a VDO "di-pole sender" that will give you the OP light and the gauge, or 2) you can put an 18 inch "extension" at the stock OP location and mount the di-pole sender on the firewall.

I did #2 and used this little gizmo, but the hose they give you is only 12 inches long so I used an 18 incl long grease gun hose that I bought from the local auto parts store. The threads in the case for the stock OP sender are 10mm x 1.0mm so keep that in mind or it will leak oil. The sender has to be well grounded to work right so no teflon tape is used.

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html

ok. in the 1) option..two question...the bipole sender not touch with distributor? and the bipole sender works vertical position?
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aparently, the type 4 engine install in a heavy kombi, have a overheat problem!!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pablovent wrote:
aparently, the type 4 engine install in a heavy kombi, have a overheat problem!!

No, not at all, some develop head problems but overheating is never an issue.
They do develop oil pump problems, alot of the damage you describe sounds like oil starvation.

As for the sender yes it clears the distributor although it's hard to access if you ever need to remove it without removing the tin first, the flex hose setup makes maintenance very easy.
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
pablovent wrote:
aparently, the type 4 engine install in a heavy kombi, have a overheat problem!!

No, not at all, some develop head problems but overheating is never an issue.
They do develop oil pump problems, alot of the damage you describe sounds like oil starvation.

As for the sender yes it clears the distributor although it's hard to access if you ever need to remove it without removing the tin first, the flex hose setup makes maintenance very easy.


Busdaddy, my engine have only 2 months for use and overheated and had to repair it completely, the axial metal pressed on the crankshaft, and pistons melted!, still do not understand why happened? ...I have repaired many vw type 1 engine perfectly, but this is my first type 4, have any idea why it happen?.... Now be installing temperature gauges and new oil pump for sure....for your experience, do you think has influenced automatic transmission? or particular thing or another of these engines?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is more common is when the split main bearing is actually too large and it holds the case "open" when it is freshly torqued down.

As the engine wears, the split main bearing grinds itself "smaller",t he case will close up but then the case through bolt torque values are too loose.

You need to handfit that split main (by gently rubbing the top of it with the red polishing stone) so that it no longer holds the case open.
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
What is more common is when the split main bearing is actually too large and it holds the case "open" when it is freshly torqued down.

As the engine wears, the split main bearing grinds itself "smaller",t he case will close up but then the case through bolt torque values are too loose.

You need to handfit that split main (by gently rubbing the top of it with the red polishing stone) so that it no longer holds the case open.


Sorry, for lenguaje problem ..i dont understand ...can explainme better and slowly please??
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josh
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's basically saying the bearings don't always fit correctly. Sometimes you have to measure them and make them fit.

Parts Quality is not as good as it used to be.
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modok wrote:
...If If stoner A takes a hit and then stoner B goes right away(not waiting two seconds), he's trying to suck on it while it's still got a vaccum, doesen't get much of a hit at all! Cause it hasn't filled back up all the way yet.

Stoner A is cylinders #2/4 B is #1/3 The plugged bowl is the throttle, the bong is the manifold
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok...thanks for the traduction!!!....in this model.....the automatic transmission don´t have oil cooler??
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't need a transmission oil cooler.
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
It doesn't need a transmission oil cooler.


Ok, but other cars with automatic transmission has an oil cooler ... i try to understand the pistons melted!!
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copellos
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the porsche guy i deal with said to open the flaps up both mid way and leave them there. thats what ive been running without the thermo
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

copellos wrote:
the porsche guy i deal with said to open the flaps up both mid way and leave them there. thats what ive been running without the thermo


Shocked
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modok wrote:
...If If stoner A takes a hit and then stoner B goes right away(not waiting two seconds), he's trying to suck on it while it's still got a vaccum, doesen't get much of a hit at all! Cause it hasn't filled back up all the way yet.

Stoner A is cylinders #2/4 B is #1/3 The plugged bowl is the throttle, the bong is the manifold
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pablovent
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

copellos wrote:
the porsche guy i deal with said to open the flaps up both mid way and leave them there. thats what ive been running without the thermo


for best colling......mid way?? or like a photo???

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