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sanderbing
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2010
Posts: 153
Location: RI / CT
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 Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:05 am Post subject: what size is the axle nut? |
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| I've read about every thread on removing the rear brake drums but mine aren't budging - so I need to take it off via a hub puller but must first remove the axle nut. Any idea what size that is? |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:25 am Post subject: |
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I think it is a 46mm, but I use a fractional socket that fits okay. You can buy a cheapy slug wrench to fit it from many VW parts places.
If your vehicle drives, you can take it in to a truck shop and have them loosen it as well. |
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shiningstar76
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Joined: July 12, 2003
Posts: 2689
Location: Savannah
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 11:12 am Post subject: |
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A little advice on putting that back on. It's 240 ft lb torque. And it has to be on there that tight. I'd consider putting it on as tight as you can and having a shop torque it to spec.
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 11:52 am Post subject: |
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| shiningstar76 wrote: |
| A little advice on putting that back on. It's 240 ft lb torque. And it has to be on there that tight. I'd consider putting it on as tight as you can and having a shop torque it to spec. |
The torque is a minimum of 240 ft*lbs, and then continue tightening until the cotter pin holes line up. On the Vanagon they went to 360+ ft*lbs using essentially the same parts and techniques, so that is what I do on the my Bays. |
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sanderbing
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2010
Posts: 153
Location: RI / CT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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| got it - the 1 13/16 was available and the same as the 46 mm. Unfortunately, I can't get it off. I'm using a level and pulling so hard it lifts up that corner of the bus. And the bus isnt registered so I cant drive to a shop. I'll try hitting it with some oil a few days and hope that works its way through. |
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Wildthings
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Desertbusman
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Joined: June 03, 2005
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Location: Arizona
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BumbleBus
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Joined: August 17, 2009
Posts: 483
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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| sanderbing wrote: |
| I can't get it off. |
This worked for me. WHACK, WHACK! Off she came eventually. Put back on @ 253ftlbs from standing on a cheater bar about 13 1/2 inches out (I'm about 225-230lbs) + a little more to line up the cotter and I added a tiny bit of anti-seize to the threads. Snug as a bug since and easy to get back off. Good luck!
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sanderbing
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Joined: October 03, 2010
Posts: 153
Location: RI / CT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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didn't that pry bar on the lug bolts mess up the threads?
and im not exactly sure how that tool works |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16971
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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My Ingersol Rand 1/2" drive impact gun usually does the trick with about 140 psi from my big ass compressor.
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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| sanderbing wrote: |
didn't that pry bar on the lug bolts mess up the threads?
and im not exactly sure how that tool works |
You can put the lug nuts on if you are worried about damaging the threads.
The tool works by whacking it with a small (3-8 lb) sledge hammer. You can also add extra force by putting a breaker bar through the square hole and having someone stand on it while you whack. |
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3899
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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That tool works by slamming on the heavy outer part with a BFH. Yes, it
works well for the purpose, but you need to realize that you are also
slamming on (1) the axle shaft splines, (2) the wheel bearings, (3) both
constant velocity joints, (4) the differential gears, and (5) so on into
the transmission. Most guys like to pretend they're not doing any damage
to those vital parts, but those of us who have some appreciation for the
laws of physics have a different opinion. Personally, I wouldn't use anything
except a 3/4" drive socket and a cheater bar as long as it takes.
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16971
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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I have used the whacker in the past many times. The part that scares me is swinging the hammer and possibly hitting the bus with it. It's never happened but I'm always concerned about it. An impact gun is an amazing tool and every mechanic should have one.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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sanderbing
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2010
Posts: 153
Location: RI / CT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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| i do have an impact gun but not sure if its a 3/4 drive as needed for the 1 13/16 socket, nor do i know if the socket will take the stress from the impact gun as its not an impact socket - I might be in for an adventure. plan B would be the whacker tool I guess |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16971
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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I use an adapter for the 3/4 drive sockets.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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VDubTech
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Joined: December 29, 2002
Posts: 9142
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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First things first....what year Bus are we talking about here? If it's 72-79 you don't have to remove the hub nut to take off the drum.
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| borninabus wrote: |
| a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: |
| my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
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10 photos = douchebaggery |
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BumbleBus
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Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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| sanderbing wrote: |
| didn't that pry bar on the lug bolts mess up the threads |
Not enough to make any difference. The nuts spin right on still easy peasy.
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BumbleBus
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Joined: August 17, 2009
Posts: 483
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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| kreemoweet wrote: |
I wouldn't use anything
except a 3/4" drive socket and a cheater bar as long as it takes. |
Stood (and jumped on it a few times even) at the very end of a 6 foot cheater with zero results with mine. That whacker tool is the only thing that worked for me. I think some PO mechanic had air-gunned that thing on waaaaayyyy too tight and sitting in a open field for years didn't help matters either. It's all circumstantial. Wish I had a big ass impact wrench myself, but couldn't justify the cost for a 1 time use thing.
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Randy in Maine
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Joined: August 03, 2003
Posts: 34890
Location: The Beach
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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| VDubTech wrote: |
| First things first....what year Bus are we talking about here? If it's 72-79 you don't have to remove the hub nut to take off the drum. |
The question to be asked.
I have a dollar that says it is a 1978. |
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sanderbing
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2010
Posts: 153
Location: RI / CT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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| yes, its a 78. and I did get the drums off but still need to get the hubs off to replace the backer plates. Plus i have the hardware kit and it will be much easier without the hub |
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