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Narrowed beam question
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

at one time i had a bug with a 6 and with a 4. it was night and day. it was a dream to drive the one wtih the 4"
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Cody1963
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya I'm prety set on the 4 inch, I can't wait to make it!
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puttin slow
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

running a 5.25 beam with drop spindles and 195-50's. only rub the trailing arm on full lock and headlight buckets have been cut and re-welded and i still rub the buckets on a quick turn. no body rub though. narrowed beam sucks turning to the left.....just a warning.
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Cody1963
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why to the left?
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puttin slow
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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puttin slow
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tie rod is super short now as with a narrowed beam setup on the left so the turning radius is about half of what right turning radius is now. can always be corrected with a center load rack and pinion. working on that right now
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mdnick
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

like it's been said.. ive been running a 6. i get significant rubbing on the inner fender and the headlight bucket, the cars i've driven with 4" beams are awesome.. if i ever make a new beam it will be a 4
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smitty24
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

a 4" beam is superior to anything more. I would run a 4 but then I wouldnt be able to use my swaybar. I currently have a 2" with swaybar and discs/Sprintstars and 165/60. I need 2" more narrow to clean it up but for these roads, that will have to stay for now. I would stick to the small Smart car tires as well. I had a couple bad accidents due to 135s sliding in the rain, years ago. Now I use either 155/60 or 165/60 Continentals. Much better tire all around.
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dirtylawnchair
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How narrow is all relevant to the offset of your wheels.
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Cody1963
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtylawnchair wrote:
How narrow is all relevant to the offset of your wheels.

Stock smoothies. Drums.... All stock
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cody1963 wrote:
dirtylawnchair wrote:
How narrow is all relevant to the offset of your wheels.

Stock smoothies. Drums.... All stock


2", 3" maybe 4". In my opinion.
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Michael Fischer
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtylawnchair wrote:
How narrow is all relevant to the offset of your wheels.


Very true. A 4" is great with stock wheels. Or anything with a similar offset.

5" is great for anything with a BRM offset.
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smitty24
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

something you also need to realize- if you are running stock 4" smoothies and stock drums, something even minimal like a 2" IS noticeable. 4" is major on a stock setup. I would use the Smart tires and not the 135s if you do a 4". You want the extra track for handling and safety. A 145/65 or 155/60 with your wheels would look good and still handle, and you can still have shocks.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just wanted to add my two cents i worked at a tire shop and i run temps on the front of my bug (think of it this way) lighter in the front and not as fast as the car they came out with. also they under rate the speed on them

as for my set up ive got a 6 inch beam 3 inch drop spindles 3/16ths pied pan head running empi 5 spokes and 135 15 temps. beam adjusters are mid way arms are strait and caster is 10(alittle much but it tracks great)

just somthing to think about if you have bucket rub you can cut 3/4 out of them and weld it back in
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Cody1963
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flatNbug wrote:
i just wanted to add my two cents i worked at a tire shop and i run temps on the front of my bug (think of it this way) lighter in the front and not as fast as the car they came out with. also they under rate the speed on them

as for my set up ive got a 6 inch beam 3 inch drop spindles 3/16ths pied pan head running empi 5 spokes and 135 15 temps. beam adjusters are mid way arms are strait and caster is 10(alittle much but it tracks great)

just somthing to think about if you have bucket rub you can cut 3/4 out of them and weld it back in
I'll probably end up cutting my headlight buckets eventually
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puttin slow
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there was a post i was looking at, can't remember where, but a guy had a narrowed drop spindled early bug and ran 1.5 inch longer trailing arms on his beam. actually looked good in the pictures and the wheels were centered again. He also said there was no head light bucket rub issues. I hope someone can help me out and post a link to this.
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Earlybugs
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

puttin slow wrote:
there was a post i was looking at, can't remember where, but a guy had a narrowed drop spindled early bug and ran 1.5 inch longer trailing arms on his beam. actually looked good in the pictures and the wheels were centered again. He also said there was no head light bucket rub issues. I hope someone can help me out and post a link to this.


I have a set of 1" extended trailing arms that Michael Fischer built on my 60 he had a set on his 64 to. My set up now is a 6" beam with drop spindles 145 65s and 6" porsche spares with adapters. I have also ran randars, smoothies, and spindle mounts with temps with no head light bucket rubbing, it does rub a little on the inner fender well at full turn.

I have no problems with this combo i also have mikes drop plates on the back. I put about 400 miles on it a week year round.

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Cody1963
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn! That bug is awesome and low!!!
Earlybugs wrote:
puttin slow wrote:
there was a post i was looking at, can't remember where, but a guy had a narrowed drop spindled early bug and ran 1.5 inch longer trailing arms on his beam. actually looked good in the pictures and the wheels were centered again. He also said there was no head light bucket rub issues. I hope someone can help me out and post a link to this.


I have a set of 1" extended trailing arms that Michael Fischer built on my 60 he had a set on his 64 to. My set up now is a 6" beam with drop spindles 145 65s and 6" porsche spares with adapters. I have also ran randars, smoothies, and spindle mounts with temps with no head light bucket rubbing, it does rub a little on the inner fender well at full turn.

I have no problems with this combo i also have mikes drop plates on the back. I put about 400 miles on it a week year round.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Earlybugs wrote:


I have a set of 1" extended trailing arms that Michael Fischer built on my 60 he had a set on his 64 to. My set up now is a 6" beam with drop spindles 145 65s and 6" porsche spares with adapters. I have also ran randars, smoothies, and spindle mounts with temps with no head light

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Wow, that wheel is really centered up. Looks good
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dirtylawnchair
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My next project I may notch the pan head to pull the wheels back.


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Your set up looks great. Where did you get those extended arms? Info please!!!
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