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Horn Rebuild
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entomologist2004
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:56 am    Post subject: Horn Rebuild Reply with quote

II have a 62 ghia convertibee with the large bolt apart horns that are not working. I opened my horns up and cleaned the contacts and they still do not work. They "Clunk" but not "Honk" when tested with a 6 volt inverter. Itried adjustin gthe conact screw all the way in both directions to no avail... would testing without the relay cause this problen? Thanks any resources on how to fix these and woud be greatly appreciated , I need someting other than wild shouting keep from getting run down....
Walt
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74Ghia
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this sounds silly but there appears to be something with those horns in that they only beep when installed. I had to install mine in position and then play with the adjusting screws to get the sound I wanted. Unbolt one horn from the chassis/pan and no Beep Beep. Ain'y it wierd??
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Gary
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out this thread from days past.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=279896#279896
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entomologist2004
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:38 am    Post subject: THANKS!!! Reply with quote

Awesome resources Very Happy . I think the problem is that they are not breaking the point contact when they fire. I am going to stick them in the car and test them again, if they still don't work I will take them arpart and try to make sure it all lines up and follow all of the directions provided...Now all I need to do is find a decent Dash Pad!!!! Rolling Eyes
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Gary
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Contact Mike, user ID HouseofGhia. He has an excellent reproduction pad right now.

Here is the example he posted in the Samba Gallery:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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snookerdude
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 3:36 pm    Post subject: horns Reply with quote

if you are reallly using an inveter then that is you problem. they convert d/c to a/c. if you are using a recterfier then probably it does not provide enough amperage. horns are pretty demanding. hook them up to a live battery for a bench test. i've noticet the tuning is different when on the bench from when on the brackets in the car. the pitch goes up in the car.
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EdW
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:15 pm    Post subject: Re: THANKS!!! Reply with quote

entomologist2004 wrote:
Awesome resources Very Happy . I think the problem is that they are not breaking the point contact when they fire. I am going to stick them in the car and test them again, if they still don't work I will take them arpart and try to make sure it all lines up and follow all of the directions provided...Now all I need to do is find a decent Dash Pad!!!! Rolling Eyes


One thing that I found doing mine is that the rectangular bar that is on the horn cover needs to be placed over the 2 coil magnets in the horn. Otherwise it will just clunk as you described.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 6:21 pm    Post subject: Re: THANKS!!! Reply with quote

entomologist2004 wrote:
Awesome resources Very Happy . I think the problem is that they are not breaking the point contact when they fire. I am going to stick them in the car and test them again, if they still don't work I will take them arpart and try to make sure it all lines up and follow all of the directions provided.


And you tried performing these cleaning/adjustments?
"Hella 6V Horn (B31VW1-6V) repair and maintenance": http://www2.lut.fi/~hosia/horns.html

When I did the above to my horns, I bench tested them using the battery.
When using an inverter or a AC to DC converter, you may not have enough amperage to power the horns, that may cause the "clunk" sound.
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EdW
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While we're talking horns, if anyone has any "Klaxon" horns available, pm me as I'm very interested. My ghia is a '73.
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entomologist2004
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:17 pm    Post subject: I now have a VERY HORNY GHIA Reply with quote

I only hope it rubs off on my female passengers!!!

I used the....

And you tried performing these cleaning/adjustments?
"Hella 6V Horn (B31VW1-6V) repair and maintenance": http://www2.lut.fi/~hosia/horns.html

Here is what happened, as an FYI to others...I took the contact points out and cleaned them with emory paper, when I returned them the feramic disk that is hit by the large steel plate was too far to the side so it didn't break the contact and just kept the plate pinned to the magnet when power was applied, hence the "Klunk" . Then I set them up properly but had them so out of adjustment that the plate was separating the contact points without power, so I got no response at all, nothing nada, toss em out .....

The key was testing the resistence, it was an open circuit. I turned the adjuster on the back till it zeroed out the ohm meter and viola... Even using the inverter they are so loud you can hear them, probably too well, from the street when my house is closed up tight.

That'll get 'em to put the cell phone down!!!!

Thanks to everyone, they really are a thing of beauty.

Oh another tip...if you open the horns up you can drop the connector posts out and tap the back side. I used a couple of brass machine screws and double nuts to recreate the spade ends that were broken off. The barrels that theyused are hex shaped so the fit a drill press vice very nicely. You have to be careful not to drill into the threads that the other side uses fo the contact plates...but it worked like a charm, dare I say, better than factory .....
Walt
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tchaika
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just fixed my horn today using the info on the above website. The points were corroded, cleaning them brought it back to life. People should do this if they have an original horn, it's an easy job.
Some things I learned... my horn clunked when I got it back together, like the above poster, it was because the magnet was getting pulled in, but missing the little tab that makes it pull the points open on the way down.
It was because I had put the phenolic/plastic/whatever strip between the points in upside down, so there was no way for the permanent magnet assembly to pull the points down and open them.
Also, to get the points in the right ballpark, adjust them up until the horn plate sits slighting above the horn body, then adjust them down until they are about level.
You don't need a test meter to figure out if you have broken connections, you can just pull out one of the tail light bulbs and see if it lights up across any connection that you suspect.

These things are really well built, worth fixing over putting in some crappy replacement.
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:53 pm    Post subject: Re: I now have a VERY HORNY GHIA Reply with quote

entomologist2004 wrote:
"Hella 6V Horn (B31VW1-6V) repair and maintenance": http://www2.lut.fi/~hosia/horns.html


Can anyone find the fix for this link, or is it just gone? It was a fantastic reference.
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Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:56 pm    Post subject: Re: I now have a VERY HORNY GHIA Reply with quote

Snoop Bob wrote:
entomologist2004 wrote:
"Hella 6V Horn (B31VW1-6V) repair and maintenance": http://www2.lut.fi/~hosia/horns.html


Can anyone find the fix for this link, or is it just gone? It was a fantastic reference.


I grabbed it from the way back machine, here you go.
Unfortunately the photos are dead
Code:

Hella 6V Horn (B31VW1-6V) repair and maintenance

Theory of operation:

Current flows in from a terminal and its screw (picture 1, top right), through the contact points (top middle), actuates electric magnet (shiny metal parts below that, inside red coil) and leaves to another terminal screw (bottom right). The coil moves the plate (separate part below body) inward, breaks the electric connection and plate returns to original position and this vibration produces quite unique, sneezy sound typical to Beetle.

Horn disassembled
Picture 1: Horn disassembled.

As the picture above shows, the horn has only three major parts: the body, the plate and the cover. The body consists of breaker points, adjustment screw, coil, terminals and terminal scews.

If the horn is not working properly, there are two main faults:

1) Horn is misadjusted (Spring loaded adjustment screw can be seen in pictures 2 and 3 on the left side.)
2) There is one or more oxidized connections.

The coil itself is very rugged and it's not easy to burn it. I have two 6V horns on 12V system (Ghia) and they are not only working fine but very loud, too.

Adjustment

Measure resistance between terminals. It should be very low, at most few ohms (mine is 2.3 ohms). If it's not(=breaker points open or burnt), then adjust the adjustment screw to clockwise until you get low resistance(=breaker points close). If you can't get it, then move to section Connections, as points are dirty or burnt.

When you have low resistance, you can test the horn: general adjustment advice is to make it as loud as you can. You could also use an ampmeter to measure the current running through, but I don't know the nominal value for it. Mine takes about 8A.

If you get no sound at this point, the breaker might be too closed and it won't open at all, so adjust the screw counterclockwise until connection breaks and then clockwise again so that connection is just made. Then you should have some noise and you could adjust it to the maximum.

Connections

There are only three joints/breaking points in horn electric circuit, so if there is much resistance, it should be easy to locate the oxidized joint. Usually the breaker points are in bad shape and need cleaning (I've two horns and the other one was mute because of that). Two other joints are under the screws which also holds the terminals in place (picture 1, right. The other horn was mute because of the other screw was oxidized.).

Also cleaning the terminals is a good idea if the body is disassembled. Be careful when assembling the terminals, they should have two small paper seals each, within the body and those are easily lost or broken. Also check that contact breaker and its parts are in right order, there should be no contact between upper and lower part if breaker points are open.

Horn body, pic 1 Picture 2: Horn body.

Horn body, pic 2 Picture 3: Horn body, adjusting screw and coil showing.

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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, cool. Something is definitely better than nothing, but the pics were really good. Regardless, the info is informative and complete and should be helpful to others.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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John Moxon
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should find this of use: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4819237#4819237
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
You should find this of use: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4819237#4819237


Perfect...thats what I get for searching everything but refurbishment...sometimes less in more...sometimes Wink

Thanks again. EB...Electrical FAQ material?
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snoop Bob wrote:
Thanks again. EB...Electrical FAQ material?


It was already in the Ghia "How To" stickies at the top of the page: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=433752
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
Snoop Bob wrote:
Thanks again. EB...Electrical FAQ material?


It was already in the Ghia "How To" stickies at the top of the page: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=433752


OK...maybe we can get it moved to all models - How to - since the horn is a multi-cultural appendage.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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h2odrx
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is one"6volt"
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2020 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Horn Rebuild Reply with quote

Hi, any information on who can repair Hella Horns 6 volt and 12 volt ?
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