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Cutting dual taper pushrods
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Hophead
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:25 pm    Post subject: Cutting dual taper pushrods Reply with quote

I have some Manton dual taper pushrods that I need to shorten 1.5 CM. In a perfect world you cut an equal amount off of both ends. Is it really a big deal if I lopp it all off of one end. I am looking at 8 cuts instead of 16.

I am using Jaycee pushrod tubes with 1.4 rockers. If i did just one end would there be any rubbing?
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To me, it isn't worth buying a part like that if you aren't going to do it right. This ain't the time to get lazy, I used a small tubing cutter and did all 8 of mine in pretty quick time. Take the time, do it right, you did spend good money to buy good parts.

brad
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baked beetle
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no I wouldn't waste my time for 1.5 cm but that may be just me...........is one end assembled already? if so I would cut the unassembled end and use that end in the lifter, that would move the taper down and possibly giving more clearance an the PR tube lip.
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Hophead
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not cut anything yet... was going to use a chop saw. I was afraid a pipe cutter would wander down the taper.

Even if I cut the full amount off of one end there is still some taper left. It is not that I am lazy or in a hurry. It is just setting up the saw for one cut would reduce the chance of introducing error accross the set of eight.

Where is the taper of benefit anyways? Out at the head?

Also, How do you ensure equal length with a tubing cutter? With a chop saw i was going to set up a flip stop.
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Nater
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slalombuggy wrote:
To me, it isn't worth buying a part like that if you aren't going to do it right. This ain't the time to get lazy, I used a small tubing cutter and did all 8 of mine in pretty quick time. Take the time, do it right, you did spend good money to buy good parts.

brad


X2 + the tubing cutter doesn't put all that heat in the tube.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After finding out what Jake Raby uses for cutting push rods,
and arrow cutter.
I went and bought one an it works great and fast.
I use to use a lathe and the arrow cutter take less time to set up and all push rods are the same length.
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yamaducci
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hophead wrote:
I have not cut anything yet... was going to use a chop saw. I was afraid a pipe cutter would wander down the taper.

Even if I cut the full amount off of one end there is still some taper left. It is not that I am lazy or in a hurry. It is just setting up the saw for one cut would reduce the chance of introducing error accross the set of eight.

Where is the taper of benefit anyways? Out at the head?

Also, How do you ensure equal length with a tubing cutter? With a chop saw i was going to set up a flip stop.

Yes the benefit of a taper is out at the head.
Making them dual-taper just lightens them and makes them a no-brainer for which side goes where. If you do cut one side; put the cut side in the lifter cup, allowing the most taper to be out at the head where it's most beneficial.
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yamaducci wrote:
Making them dual-taper just lightens them


No. Tapering the pushrod "triangulates" the structure of it (i.e. a cone rather than a cylinder) making them MUCH stronger. It is not done for weight reduction.
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yamaducci
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eaallred wrote:
yamaducci wrote:
Making them dual-taper just lightens them


No. Tapering the pushrod "triangulates" the structure of it (i.e. a cone rather than a cylinder) making them MUCH stronger. It is not done for weight reduction.

Yes Eric I understand the centerline priciple here. I guess I should not have dumbed it down. Cutting Both sides equally is Ideal but cutting one side will leave the largest diameter to work with I.E. a triangle; yet it will still have taper where it counts.
Either cut won't be noticed until you run K800 or better springs at 9000 RPM+
I doubt the OP is in that arena; I could be wrong.
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Last edited by yamaducci on Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jsturtlebuggy wrote:

I use to use a lathe and the arrow cutter take less time to set up and all push rods are the same length.


Is this it?
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darth,
That not really an arrow cutter. Yes I see on line that someone is using it for that. I bought one of those cutters for from Harbor Feight and returned it the same day. I was using to cut brake line and little cog belt keep slipping. Piece of crap.
I found my arrow cutter at Cabela's on line.
It is not cheap, $159. It the 8,000RPM model without the dust collector.
looking on line tonite, Cabela's has a $20 rebate on spending over $150
There are more expensive ones, I don't know how much better they are.
It works and I have to do very little to clean up the end of the push rod after cutting it.
When I take up bow hunting it will a dual purpose tool.
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Nater
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I googled it and found this interesting! Laughing Laughing

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1439856&page=1

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