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RockCrusher
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2010
Posts: 4596
Location: Parkesburg, PA
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 Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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The cheap Purolator filter was made by Champion filters last time I saw and the cheaper Pep Boys Pro-Line filters are the exact same filter from the same company. They are good middle of the road filters and superior to FRAM any day of the week. The Purolator Pure1 filter is a high grade synthethic element filter and one of the top 3 in the market for filtering ability but has no special burst strength. I blew 2 of those apart on ACVW full flow setup and now they just sit on the shelf.....wish they fit my Dakota (about 1/16" from touching the frame....damn!).
RC
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[email protected] Please use email for all general inquiries.
I will be happy to speak to anyone who has a serious inquiry (meaning real potential business for RC enterprises) or a parts order. Due to machining noise causing missed calls all calls will be returned promptly. |
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bugninva
Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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| RockCrusher wrote: |
| I blew 2 of those apart on ACVW full flow setup and now they just sit on the shelf.....wish they fit my Dakota (about 1/16" from touching the frame....damn!). |
damn RC, get your oil pressure under control.... either lighten it up, or incorporate oneof the fancy external pressure regulators.... 
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| [email protected] wrote: |
| With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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torsionbar
Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2010
Posts: 2215
Location: earf
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| Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:40 am Post subject: |
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| mattt wrote: |
On a related subject...the last time I read up on oil filters, Purolators were said to be good filters. Is that still the case? Pep Boys is the only local place that carries Purolator oil filters, but I now see that O'reilly is carrying Wix, and I've heard good reviews on Wix as well. Purolator and Wix still good oil filters? |
wix (aka napa gold) is a very good filter. avoid the purolator.
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| Max Welton wrote: |
[air cooled vw's] are no longer suitable for the general public. The owner has to be be able to maintain the car. And that is after fixing all the deferred maintenance items and ill-conceived modifications. If you can't do those things you are pretty much screwed. |
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Bruce
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003
Posts: 17290
Location: Left coast, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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| torsionbar wrote: |
| avoid the purolator. |
What makes you say that?
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| overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
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bugninva
Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:39 am Post subject: |
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| Bruce wrote: |
| torsionbar wrote: |
| avoid the purolator. |
What makes you say that? |
opinion....
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| [email protected] wrote: |
| With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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MinamiKotaro
Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2008
Posts: 1039
Location: Somewhere in TN
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| Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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I can't figure out why everyone hates Fram. I've never had the slightest problem with any Fram filter I've ever used on any car.
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1967 VW Beetle
2276cc
MegaSquirt-extra v3.57
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RockCrusher
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2010
Posts: 4596
Location: Parkesburg, PA
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| Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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| MinamiKotaro wrote: |
| I can't figure out why everyone hates Fram. I've never had the slightest problem with any Fram filter I've ever used on any car. |
The problem you will have is one you can not see looking at the outside of the filter. There is less than 1/2 the filter material compared to most other filters and the way it is assembled can allow unfiltered oil to leak past at all times. I like the pretty orange color though!.
RC
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[email protected] Please use email for all general inquiries.
I will be happy to speak to anyone who has a serious inquiry (meaning real potential business for RC enterprises) or a parts order. Due to machining noise causing missed calls all calls will be returned promptly. |
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firecracker
Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2011
Posts: 106
Location: muscle shoals, al
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| Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:33 am Post subject: |
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| i'm getting ready to change the oil in my 60 bug. It's got a 1600dp. I'm running castrol 20w50 right now, but after reading here, it seems that's not a good choice. What i'm wondering is if there's any reason not to run royal purple 15w40 and if it would be better to go with the RP or go with Rotella T? We've got both where I work, so i'm wondering what the pros and cons are for these and which one's you guys would recommend |
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torsionbar
Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2010
Posts: 2215
Location: earf
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| Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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| MinamiKotaro wrote: |
| I can't figure out why everyone hates Fram. I've never had the slightest problem with any Fram filter I've ever used on any car. |
i've had several fram oil filters fail internally. as rc says, the internal construction is poor. on the ones i've opened up, flimsy cardboard separates the clean oil from the dirty. better filters use metal. the flimsy cardboard separates and falls apart, and now it isn't filtering much of anything at all. my clue was that the oil pressure gauge was bouncing all over the place. i'll never buy another fram.
mann, mahle, or wix / napa gold are the only oil filter brands i use on all my cars. on the beetle which has a maxi2 filter/pump, i use the mahle oc84.
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| Max Welton wrote: |
[air cooled vw's] are no longer suitable for the general public. The owner has to be be able to maintain the car. And that is after fixing all the deferred maintenance items and ill-conceived modifications. If you can't do those things you are pretty much screwed. |
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bugninva
Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 7:04 am Post subject: |
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| torsionbar wrote: |
my clue was that the oil pressure gauge was bouncing all over the place. i'll never buy another fram.
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I used to run fram on a truck I had, only because that is what the PO always ran... I noticed the same thing with the pressure inconsistencies, and it always went back to "normal" when I'd change the filter... after a couple of those cycles I opened one up, it was a mess inside... never bought another fram after that...
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| [email protected] wrote: |
| With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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Teeroy 
Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2003
Posts: 3685
Location: Eastern WA
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| Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 1:14 pm Post subject: Official "What oil should I use" topic |
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While at the local speed shop today I checked out what oil they carry and found a couple More SL rated oils.
Royal Purple, 5-20, 5-30, 10-30,10-40 also 30wt break in
Penzoil HD 30
Castrol GTX Diesel 15-40
ACE Hardware 30
Just changed the oil on our Passat, it calls for 5-40 due to the turbo. I noticed the Castrol Syntec is also SL rated. Any feed back on the Syntec with flat tappet cams?
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Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org |
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miniman82
Samba Swamp Donkey
Joined: March 22, 2005
Posts: 9515
Location: Southern Maryland
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Teeroy
Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2003
Posts: 3685
Location: Eastern WA
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| Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:31 pm Post subject: Official "What oil should I use" topic |
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Both our EOS and Passat are turbo and get changed at 5000 mile not 10 like the Audi, and are both clean with the visual. I was more wondering on feedback on the syntec for air cooled use.
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Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org |
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josh
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2003
Posts: 1773
Location: laid back in the tall grass
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| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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For what it's worth Royal Purple now makes a high zinc/phosphorus synthetic called HPS.
Looks like the levels are pretty high based on this allegedly independent testing.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28027
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| modok wrote: |
...If If stoner A takes a hit and then stoner B goes right away(not waiting two seconds), he's trying to suck on it while it's still got a vaccum, doesen't get much of a hit at all! Cause it hasn't filled back up all the way yet.
Stoner A is cylinders #2/4 B is #1/3 The plugged bowl is the throttle, the bong is the manifold |
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isea
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2011
Posts: 100
Location: Alameda, CA
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| Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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From Aircooled.Net technical articles
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Synthetic Oil Explained ....
At Aircooled.Net we recommend that you run synthetic oils in all cases, with one exception: you should continue to run dino oil (and change it every 1k miles) if your car still has the stock oiling system.
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Sorry for my ignorance but is meant by "stock oiling system"? |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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| isea wrote: |
From Aircooled.Net technical articles
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Synthetic Oil Explained ....
At Aircooled.Net we recommend that you run synthetic oils in all cases, with one exception: you should continue to run dino oil (and change it every 1k miles) if your car still has the stock oiling system.
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Sorry for my ignorance but is meant by "stock oiling system"? |
Not seeing the rest of the article, I suspect he is talking about the stock oiling system on a T1 engine which lacks an oil filter. I personally don't know if much is gained by changing the oil that often. On my Thing I run a 5W-40 Diesel/Gas rated synthetic and change it at 3000 miles or so. I guess if I were running in dusty off road conditions I might not run synthetics and change it more frequently. |
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PatterBon
Samba Engine Connoisseur
Joined: September 27, 2008
Posts: 3446
Location: Copperas Cove, TX
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:23 am Post subject: |
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After working at an ACVW shop and having had engine trouble of my own in years past, I change my oil once every 500-1000 miles. It's almost as gold coming out as it was going in. Most people are under the misconception that VW's are primarily air cooled. When really they are mostly oil cooled, the oil is what moves the heat up into the oil cooler were the air can then wisk it away. I see alot of advantages to changing your oil that ofter...And nothing is worse than to dread your oil change. I personally run straight 30w and have been running it since the day my engine came to life again. 15w-40 and 20w-50 are a bit too thick (so I've been told) for the tolerances between the valve lifters and case.
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dubbified
Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010
Posts: 1406
Location: Redmond, WA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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my local shop tells me that chevron 20-50 lacks zinc, and will not properly break in my engine.
The only method I use to break in, is use a 20-50 and change out after 1 hour of engine operation, change at 500 miles, and then 3K, then normal interval.
This is my first 2.1.. but this isnt apples/oranges, I've had 1.8's, 2.0s all inlines, I'm curious how does this change?
4 yr autograd, 1 yr of college auto and I've never heard that lack of zinc can kill a cam.
does not seem to apply.. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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| dubbified wrote: |
4 yr autograd, 1 yr of college auto and I've never heard that lack of zinc can kill a cam.
does not seem to apply.. |
The amount of ZDDP in the oil was lessened back in the early 2000's because it reduced the life of the catalytic converters. Newer engines with lighter weight valve trains were not affected too badly by this but older pushrod engines have had wear problems with the lesser amounts of ZDDP. There are thousands of thread on the web on this. Have no idea what the actually ZDDP level of the Chevron 20W-50 is but as I said before oils with a second number of 40 or greater do not have to meet the stringent SN ZDDP reductions.
Time to do a bit of reading!!! |
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turboblue
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2003
Posts: 4216
Location: Central Indiana
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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| dubbified wrote: |
my local shop tells me that chevron 20-50 lacks zinc, and will not properly break in my engine.
The only method I use to break in, is use a 20-50 and change out after 1 hour of engine operation, change at 500 miles, and then 3K, then normal interval.
This is my first 2.1.. but this isnt apples/oranges, I've had 1.8's, 2.0s all inlines, I'm curious how does this change?
4 yr autograd, 1 yr of college auto and I've never heard that lack of zinc can kill a cam.
does not seem to apply.. |
Most modern day engines are roller or overhead cam.
Flat tappet VW engines are a whole 'nother ballgame.
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Gary
Turbo VW Sand Drag Buggy
"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!" |
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