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what are your thoughts on this kit?
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isea
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 1:09 pm    Post subject: what are your thoughts on this kit? Reply with quote

I am looking to rebuild my current 1500cc in my 67 beetle. I want make sure I get the right kit for the job. I don't want to spend a fortune but I also don't want to cut corners and regret it later. I came across this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-1835cc-Volkswagen-Engin...3f0f06ca03

Does anyone have any experience with them? Good/Bad?

What kit do you recommend?

Also, forgive my ignorance. But, to build a 1831cc engine I can just convert my current 1500cc's case with essentially bolt on parts? I know I am over simplifying it but is that about right?

Thanks for any help!
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to tell you that is not a bolt on kit.
It requires machine work on the engine case.
Have you done any research here about what it take to build a bigger engine?
There are many threads here about what it takes.
I not trying to offend you, but do have the mechanical ability to build an engine?
It not a simple bolt together.
A lot depends on the conditions of the parts you are starting with.
If your engine case in your 67 Bug is original it is one that is not considered a good one to start with. There has been many problems of cracks and studs pulling with it.
Search the site and read as much as you can stand.
Another option would be to buy a complete engine from someone and you install it or let them do install and dial it in.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

assuming the parts are rebuilt right I get a total of 560$, so it's a ok deal

I would not bother buying thinwall AA 92 P&C, nor reground cam and lifters, it is not worth the risk to use sketchy stuff like that for high-performance, maybe ok for stock rebuild though

To get the most from your money, get re-ground crank(if needed) and re-built rods from DPR or Demell, buy new cam and lifters from engle, use 90.5 P&C kit
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isea
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I not trying to offend you, but do have the mechanical ability to build an engine?


No offense taken Smile I am by no means a great mechanic but I'm not a TOTAL doofus either. The only reason I ask is because someone told it was that easy and I was questioning it really.

Quote:
If your engine case in your 67 Bug is original it is one that is not considered a good one to start with. There has been many problems of cracks and studs pulling with it.


Ok, well good to know really. There was a part of me that just wasted to rebuild the stock engine for a back up once the new one was in anyway.

So does that mean I want to find a brand new forged crank case? Or are you speaking directly to the stock 67 engine is no good for this application and a newer model engine case would be better?

@modok - Thanks for the input!
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fivelugshortaxle
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a good kit....crank isn't counterweighted.....reground lifters.....rebuilt rods....thin wall cylinders........the whole kit cuts corners.........split your case and save the money for a well thought out kit from brothers....air cooled ........mofoco......any good reputable company.....hell...you can even get a better kit from AA.......
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ yup,lugnuts is about right,check out AA and you could add a stroker easely also.no problems with the cast 0r china cranks&rods. get new cam&lifters.there are somany out there .
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at the engine number on the engine case (this is next to crank pulley under the generator stand) and it starts with an H it is the one I am referring to.
Not knowing the history of your Bug, at some time the engine may have been rebuilt or even replaced.
Depending on how you want to use your Bug you could just build a good running 1600cc which does not require any machine work to where the cylinders set in the case and heads.
That not to say that your engine case may need to have a line bore for where the main bearings set or case inserts for the heads studs.
A 1776cc which requires machining the case and head for the oversize 90.5mm piston and cylinders this would be a more reliable then using the 92mm P&Cs.
Tell us some more about what you are looking for.
A reliable engine that will last many miles or something else.
You need to know up front that rebuilding a VW now is not cheap to do it right.
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isea
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@jsturtlebuggy - I will let you know what I see on the engine tomorrow, As far as what I want. I really just want a the Beetle to be a reasonably reliable vehicle that has enough pick up to pass, merge onto a highway and cruise at 70 with the ability to cruise at 80 (even though I probably wouldn't) I want my kids to be able to experience a rebuild early in life since there generation will probably never even touch their vehicle other than to drive them.

Quote:
You need to know up front that rebuilding a VW now is not cheap to do it right.


I know I'll have to put some money into it but it really something I know I'll get a lot of enjoyment out of. I'll enjoy the process and the results so it's cool.

Thanks for everyone's input it is really appreciated!
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KevinR
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could easily get a good running 1600 that would give that car some pep. No reason to go crazy (like I am)...
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 1600cc engine would be fairly simple to build.
Going from single port to dual port heads is a simple step. Does require changing 2 head studs on each side for clearance of intake manifold.
With the dual port heads you have more choices for carburation.
A set of dual Weber 40IDF carbs would work well.
Something along the lines of a Engle 110 camshaft spec would also work well.
And one thing you help in keeping the engine cool is changing to a doghouse(standback) system oil cooler system that moves the oil cooler out of the air flow to the left side cylinders and head and uses a little wider cooling fan.
Also using an extractor exhaust system will improve performance.
This is only part of what you can do.
www.aircooled.net as parts and information.
John visits this site with good advise.
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isea
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, well after a bunch of thinking about it. I thinking about it I'm just going to get a 1600 SP engine and call it a day Embarassed . Now I just need to do the research on the best place to get it. Thanks for all the help!
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Almost Alive
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

isea wrote:
OK, well after a bunch of thinking about it. I thinking about it I'm just going to get a 1600 SP engine and call it a day Embarassed . Now I just need to do the research on the best place to get it. Thanks for all the help!


I'll build you one. Do you have a base to start with?
1600 SP's are one of my favorite engines to build, EXTREMELY reliable when done correctly.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

isea,
There are places in the bay area that can put something together for you.
LaVere's Restoration in Concord is just one.
http://www.vwrestorations.com
Ken Jansen Enterprise in Belmont is another.
(650) 622-9785
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Joseph
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grimace007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

check feedback on laveres before using them.
i have never heard anything good Sad

ive never used them myself and the owner is a real nice guy ive stopped and chatted with him a few times i live close to his shop.

but nothing but bad experiences are what i hear from past customers.

*shrug*
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