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Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: The Ball Joint Beam
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:55 pm    Post subject: Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: The Ball Joint Beam Reply with quote

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: The Ball Joint Beam

If you have followed this series from the start you know that I recommend a '69 or later standard Beetle ( not super Beetle ) for people who want to build a simple, inexpensive Baja Bug.

The '69 or later standard Beetle comes with a ball joint front end. This can not be modified for more travel, but in can be modified in useful ways.

For the remainder of this series we will concentrate on modifications that can be done by typical metal fabricators with readily available materials and welding equipment.

The Bently manual image:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


An unmodified bare ball joint beam:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A Glorious Modified Ball Joint Beam: Thing spindles and arms, hook and rod stops, rod up front, adjusters and reinforced towers:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A spindle and ball joints up close:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


note that one ball joint points up and one points down. Later on, we will explain why this is a problem

Lift:
The ball joint front end can be modified for more lift three ways:

  • Cut and Turn or
  • Adjusters; and
  • Raised spindles

Any method alone can provide almost 3". If you combine two methods you can get almost 6" of lift. If you do this without making the beam wider, invest in a roll cage.

Hook and rod:
If you make only one modification, make this one.

Widen the beam:
You can do this while installing adjusters, or doing a cut and turn

Brace the shock towers

Swap the left and right lower trailing arm and install the lower ball joint downward

Remove the swaybar to let the wheels work more independently off road. Your insurance company may not like this. Jeep owners can set theirs up with a quick disconnect.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Torsion bars: Thing AKA Type 181 torsion bars are about 20% stiffer than Beetle bars.

Lift Illustrated:

Unlifted car. note that the axles are pretty much in line with the bottom of the pan:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


lifted car. note that the axles are lower than pan:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cut and Turn:
A front end with a 1/4 inch cut and turn:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


the bolt on the front was at a 45 degree down angle. now it's a few degrees below horizontal. the metal fabricator:

  • scribed a line on the tube

    Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


  • cut the center of the tube out

    Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


  • repositioned it with the line in the cut out part 1/4" above where it was
  • welded it back together

getting about 2" of lift for his efforts. you can cut and turn 3/8". good luck getting the spindles on.

Adjusters: adjusters are a variation on cut and turn. you can fine tune the lift. you can also disassemble an adjuster while driving over rough terrain.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Why I don't do adjusters:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A front end with 4 adjusters. why 4? will be explained later

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Raised spindles There are two paths to raised spindles:

  • Modified spindles
  • Thing AKA Type 181 spindles


Modified spindles are made by cutting off the axle from a forged spindle and welding it back on lower. As my flight instructor was fond of saying -
"You go ahead. I'll watch"
and you lose the speedometer cable hole.

Thing spindles are vast hunks of forged steel with:

  • Much bigger ball joints.
  • Both ball joints point down
  • There is a lovely speedometer cable hole


Which is why I have a set waiting to go on my car. Good for about 2 7/8" lift. You need Thing trailing arms to go with Thing spindles. Thing ball joints are bigger than beetle ball joints, and use a different eccentric for camber adjustment.

eviljedi25 wrote:
You can use Thing spindles with stock bug arms if you flip the lower arm on your stock bug beam? -

Yes, many suggest slightly machining a lip on the arms to allow the BJ to seat "correctly"... personally haven't done it so am not entirely sure. I basically put Thing spindles and lower arms on an otherwise stock bug beam, it all bolted up fine.

I don't know if you guys caught this but it is not the lower arms that get flipped if using Thing spindles on upper/lower Bug arms.

To install the ball joint upside down though, the bug arm does need to be ground down a bit to allow for the lip on the ball joint to seat flat. Taking the arms to a machine shop and having them mill the area is ideal, but it can be achieved with some very carefull grinding in the home garage.

Mine currently has Thing spindles with Bug upper/lower ball joints and arms and I had to take a little off with the grinder, then smooth it with a Dremel sanding disc. Works great.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thing spindles compared to Type 1 balljoint spindles:

The Thing spindle post.

The caliper adapter you need to put KG brakes on Thing spindles:

Hook and rod: Why you want this mod:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oh, yeah. BTDT. A robust bump will disassemble a ball joint in flight.

How to prevent this? limit the range of motion of the trailing arms. put a big old 3/4" rod through the beam, make some plates to contact the rod just before you stress the ball joint, and weld it all up.

CAD image by Buggy Disaster
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


sxuxrxf wrote:

I did one side at a time with the center torsion bar bolt free to rotate and no shocks or tires.

-While holding a hook to the arm, I put the pin in a central location that allowed the hook to "hook" it.

-Then I tried the other hook to the pin. I adjusted the pin location a bit until it was in the right location for both hooks.
(It doesn't matter where the arms are in the range of travel as the end that the hook attaches to is round)

-I then drilled the hole for the pin and welded it in place on both sides of the beam upright. The pin should go through both sides for strength. Some people even gusset it to the rear of the pin.

-Now with the pin in place, it's time for the hooks. For the top, raise the spindle with a floor jack until the ball joints bind then back off a bit, 1/4" or so. Place the hook on the arm where the hook hits the pin and tack it in place.

-Do the same for the bottom. Lower the spindle until the ball joints bind and then raise it 1/4". Place the hook in place and tack it.

-Now you can cycle the suspension up and down to confirm placement and weld 'em. Weld both sides, but be careful on the inner side. Don't go crazy with the weld or it will chew up your bushings.

-Robb


an enhancement to beef up the rod:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you have to rotate this image right to see the hook and rod in action:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


NOTE! some fabricators put the rod at the front of the beam. some center the rod. the ones who put the rod at the front of the beam don't complain about the hooks fouling each other. there is a lesson in there somewhere.

thext94s Video of hook and rod stops in action:

Hook and Rod get a workout


Link


A bargain at $20:

Widen the beam: We have seen this image already:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


4 adjusters. The space from the center of one to the center of the other is how much the beam was widened. you can do it without adjusters if you cut two beams, one to the left of the center mount, one to the right, and splice them together.

Brace the shock towers This dude has embraced the notion of bracing the shock towers:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Swap the left and right lower trailing arm and install the lower ball joint downward Regretfully, this will not be illustrated. People who do this are too busy driving their car, trying to get people who did not do it to follow them and bust a ball joint, to take pictures of the finished product. You have to put the left arm on the right side and vice versa.
Problem: the tapered hole for the ball joint on the bottom of the spindle goes the wrong way.

A link to a thread where almost everything described here was covered, but not in a tidy organized way:

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index
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Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index


Last edited by Mal evolent on Wed Feb 15, 2012 11:18 am; edited 31 times in total
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Adventurer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AWESOME. Shocked once again great job, This thread also belongs in the "FAQ, Information, References, PLEASE READ FIRST" sticky.
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greg mgm
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent post!!!! Great info.
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MarkZee
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:18 pm    Post subject: ball joint beams Reply with quote

Great info. A few questions; are thing arms longer? Do thing balls & sockets pivot a greater angle before crashing? Do thing spindles increase the track width? Regarding swapping / inverting lower arms; the eyes / cups are angled -not in line with the arm. (mine are )- Inverting them will increase the socket / stud angle at full extension. The stud and cup may crash sooner than when not inverted.

Im trying to figure out a combination of parts & mods that will give my bj beam more travel without breaking.
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plotch
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What greg mgm said. Plus a vote for sticky. Thanks for the three chapters so far.
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

link to the Thing spindles post added. When I put mine on I will write it up as I go.

there is info about flipping the bug ball joint in the Thing spindle post. Apparently them Thing boys use bug spindles to lower Things. weirdo freaks.

Quote:
Do thing spindles increase the track width?


2"

Quote:
Im trying to figure out a combination of parts & mods that will give my bj beam more travel without breaking.


read the second sentence again, please
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work. Some of those photo's looks familiar. I like those popped ball joints. Rusty ball? Torn boots? Those should have been replaced long before they broke.

Also important to keep the swaybar to cut up to put inside the tie rods.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

plotch wrote:
What greg mgm said. Plus a vote for sticky. Thanks for the three chapters so far.


X2.

Hopefully these will be read, and re-read by all currently in baja, and all future bajaistas.

I'd hate to see all of this hard work not get used.
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Some of those photo's looks familiar.


as noted in the intro post, I intend to loot and pillage existing threads and consolidate information into an organized package
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's all free game if it's on the internet. Pillage on!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only thing I can see missing is gusseted spindles.... great job!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great info

This adjuster shown is probably not suitable for offroad use. (but can be installed without taking the beam off the car or cutting all the way through) The other type with the bolt and nut adjuster seem like they are stronger. That said , my upper adjuster broke after many years of mild abuse.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



to answer MarkZee
thing arms are not longer
I think the thing ball joints do have a bit more travel and are beefier
the thing spindles make the track width an additional 1" on each side
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up! One thing to mention though is you do NOT need Thing arms to run the Thing spindles. They will work on bug arms. All you need to do is flip the balljoints and install the correct ones for a Thing (bigger diameter). You also need the Thing specific caster adjusters. I just put Ghia spindles on my Thing arms in order to lower it and have discs.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we don't want to flip the ball joints. we most assuredly do not want to lower our cars. we are off roaders. we want ball joints facing down and nosebleeds when we climb into the cab
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most excellent thread/post!!!. Thank you!. Very Happy
I recently converted our baja's BJ beam to thing arms/spindles... Great setup, far better, IMO, than aftermarket spindles (not ALL a/m spindles, but the "cheap" versions).
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mal evolent wrote:
we don't want to flip the ball joints. we most assuredly do not want to lower our cars. we are off roaders. we want ball joints facing down and nosebleeds when we climb into the cab


Laughing
Great info! I have been persuaded to eventually go with some thing arms and spindles and to employ the hook and rod! Thank you! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im running a stock front end and im gunna be rebuilding it soon (seen better days!). I truly dont trust my driving skills (or lack of) and was wondering if i should put a hook and rod on while im at it. From some the reading ive been doing everything time you come to a stop you feel and hear a clank! from the hook hitting the rod. I know im gunna wind up in a ditch when it starts getting icy outside and i dont wanna blow out a ball joint. Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks, Colton

btw: I love the threads mal evolent
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you hear a clank every time you come to a stop your torsion bars are had, dad.

I have read that people go high speed fire roading and never hear a clank.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think he is talking about people complaining about the clanking sound of the hook stops.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mal evolent wrote:
we don't want to flip the ball joints. we most assuredly do not want to lower our cars. we are off roaders. we want ball joints facing down and nosebleeds when we climb into the cab


The way I understand it, is that you can run Thing spindles, with bjs facing down, with bug arms IF you flip the lower arm L to R with a bit of machining.

Cheap and you still get a nosebleed.
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