Can I re-use existing rings....it keeps getting worse

[mxracer]

Thanks Mark. Those are NGK B6HS plugs. Would you recommend switching to B5HS?

[77charger]

I have reused rings mostly leave piston in the barrel i did pull pistons out once and reinstalled in same barrels never felt any different or no blowby,

Last tear down i just replaced rings and honed barrels.Didnt want to remove piston from barrels 2 times without re ringing.
_________________
Click to view image
Bugpack 4 seater rail
2275 built by me
Auto linea alm case,82 dpr crank wedgemated by DK machine
cb 5.4 h beams,12 pound DPR f/w,Slr xv294cam,cb straight cuts,hpmx 44s,40x35 heads ported by brothers machine

[SRP1]

[djkeev]

[mark tucker]

[mxracer]

So I pulled the engine and have it torn down. I did a leak down on it cold again after pulling it and it showed good, only 5% loss on every hole, but the rings didn't seat for sure.

I drove the car the night before pulling then engine and pulled it in the morning. Every cylinder had some oil sitting in the cylinder and the carbon buildup after 2K miles looked like 50K

Waiting on the flex hone and rings now along with some other stuff I am going to correct.

[mark tucker]

check the guides too,and make sure the rings are dry when you ree assemble the motor.

[tbirdscott]

You always want a light coating of oil on the pistons, rings, wrist pin, and cylinder when assembling an engine. Running the engine will get oil in these areas but starting it dry will cause hot spots and uneven wear in the first minutes of running.

Maybe your engine builder incorrectly gapped the rings or placed the rings in the wrong positions. Pull it down and check it out, its just an engine not rocket science!

Scott

[mark tucker]

oil the skirts,oil the pins,Dont oil the rings or the ring grooves,oil the cylinder and wipe it all out.then you can install the piston into the cylinder,you can also use quick seat.

[mxracer]

So it keeps getting worse and worse...

While cleaning up the case I noticed a loose head stud/case saver, which turned into 3. Not wobbly just not locktite'd in and the case saver was spinning. That prompted me to split the case so I could remove them and locktite them.

Once I split the case I see the center main is worn. This is with a new CB 74mm crank and steel backed bearings. The case was not align bored, the "builder" said it was fine and just scuffed the case to clean it up. When assembled the crank turned nice and smooth by hand with no hard spots at all.

So, couple of questions.

1. How bad is that for 2000 miles? am I wrong that it's worn excessively?
2. What is the most likely cause?
3 What's the next step?

This is REALLY disheartening on a new engine. F ME

[Altema]

[66brm]

Who did the case work? the spigot for the cylinder looks damn close to one of the stud inserts in the bottom left of your pic, a lot closer than the others, wondering if they were machined off centre
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[mark tucker]

needs bearings,that one is dead.check linebore,check crank for balance&being straight.check oil system, check all bearing clearances, thourly clean everything. there is a lot of dibreis in that bearing,is all of the oil getting filtered?? are all the oil lines AND fittings the correct size?relief spring ok? booster spring??? oe spring?? or week relief spring??oil /filter not changed soon enough after cam breakin??something is going on, if you dont find out it Will do it again.

[modok]

Wear is excessive.........why? I don't know

If you know what the clearance is now OR what it was to begin with, that would be a clue

Could be some fine dirt, from poor oil or air filtration, if the crank has some signs of abrasion then that would point to dirt.
If not then it is probably too tight or lack of lubrication.

[mxracer]

Same douche bag did the case work.

It's camera angle though. I went back down to the shop to check.

[W1K1]

[mxracer]

[SRP1]

I see a lot of movement and fretting at the case half, I question the balancing job, and/or the torque applied to the main studs.
All you can do now is redo some of the steps and move on, I would have
the entire assembly re-balanced by a known good shop that is familiar with VW's.
I would have the case line bored, new bearings.
I would add a full flow set up, FYI these engines don't have oil filters, that
screen in the bottom is nothing more than a bolder catcher, it is not a filter.
Set it all up carefully checking you clearences as you go, use good oil such
as Amsoil Z-rod, and move forward.

[fivelugshortaxle]

Yep....can see the fretting.....case halves may have not been torqued sufficiently....and is that cae aluminum? Looks like it.....do the oil holes in the saddles line up correctly?
_________________
Good things come to those who wait.
2332 with lots of goodies....
Rotating assembly balanced by Brothers VW
4340 84mm crank
AA 94mm p&c' s
Total seal 2nd ring, rest are Grants
5.5 h beams
Magnum straight cuts
Steve Long XR310 on a 106
CB 1.4 rockers
CB Magnaspark 2 distributor
NGK D7ea plugs
A1 lowdown 1 3/4 with single muffler
Dellorto 48's with 40 venturies
Kennedy Stage 2 with Daiken disc

[HRVW]

I would torque the two halves together at 25 lbs and check with a flashlight...specially the center and rear main. Depending on what you find will determine if torqueing to 35 lbs and line boring can save the case.

That center main does not look too good.

As for squirting oil on the rings I learned to do that over 70 yrs ago which is considered to be standard procedure from the old school which still applies today.. There is grease or oil on all pistons and cyls out of the box. They are not assembled dry so why assemble dry to initial firing up.

Most knowledged builders will assemble with some grease/oil and crank a engine over a few times with the coil disconnected before firing it up.