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tire rub against upper control arm
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presslab
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a groove worn in the actual sidewall after your 2000 miles? Or is it just the raised lettering? I wouldn't worry so much if it's just the lettering.

As mentioned, take off a lug nut and count the turns it takes before it's tight. I aim to get 7 turns on my nuts. Confused Any excess turns means you can add that size spacer, say you have 10 turns, that means you can have a (10 - 7) * 1.5 = 4.5mm spacer.
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targis58
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no groove yet but marks on the letters as well as on the black wall.

I get 12 turns on my lug. So i am going for 3mm spacer for a quick fix for now.

thanks

P.S. Is there any disadvantage of adding spacers to the van I should consider?
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targis58
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

davevickery wrote:
A 3mm spacer would be the cheapest and easist. So long as you can get 5-6 full rotations of the lug nut. Check how many rotations you get now to see if the 3mm would work or not. They cost $15/pr or less on line.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-WHEEL-SPACERS-5-LUG-3MM-...%26ps%3D54

If you can't get enough rotations you can buy longer 14x1.5 lug bolts with the same seat on line or from T3 maybe. Just adds another $30 or so to the total cost.


Thanks for the link
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levi
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

targis58 wrote:
no groove yet but marks on the letters as well as on the black wall.

I get 12 turns on my lug. So i am going for 3mm spacer for a quick fix for now.

thanks

P.S. Is there any disadvantage of adding spacers to the van I should consider?


If it puts the outside edge of the tire outside of the wheel well, you'll get road crap tossed onto the side of the van.

If the quality of the spacer is crappy, the thickness of it will vary from one end to the other, giving a little bit of a wobble to your winkle.
I mean, tire.
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Vango Conversions
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you hadn't noticed any problems with your tires rubbing when you first got them, your ball joints may have worn out recently. In your photo I think I may have seen a crack in the boot so it's a good idea to check it out. Try jacking up the front of the van, grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and seeing if there is any slop. It could also be a sloppy wheel bearing.

You may also want to experiment with your tire pressure to see if you can reduce the bulge in the sidewall. Maybe over time you lost a little pressure and that's causing the tire to bulge more? I'd try both higher and lower psi to see if that helps.

You could also remove a little material from the control arm with a file or grinder, but be careful, you don't want to weaken it any.

A small spacer should take care of things but if this problem just recently reared it's head, something has changed and you want to make sure to take care of it before changing something else. Good luck.
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

targis58 wrote:
davevickery wrote:
A 3mm spacer would be the cheapest and easist. So long as you can get 5-6 full rotations of the lug nut. Check how many rotations you get now to see if the 3mm would work or not. They cost $15/pr or less on line.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-WHEEL-SPACERS-5-LUG-3MM-...%26ps%3D54

If you can't get enough rotations you can buy longer 14x1.5 lug bolts with the same seat on line or from T3 maybe. Just adds another $30 or so to the total cost.


Thanks for the link



Be careful! Be aware! That is all I have to say!
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

targis58 wrote:

P.S. Is there any disadvantage of adding spacers to the van I should consider?
I have bought several spacers for various wheels not just vanagons and I get the cheapest thing I can find, and I have never had any issue whatsoever. Can't imagine a spacer being thicker on one side than the other, but maybe someone makes them like that.

A 3mm spacer is thin enough that there are no issues with it pushing the wheel out that little bit.

I'm surprised you can get 12 full turns on that wheel. Maybe check that again, but if so that seems good. I read the standard is that the engagement should be at least the thickness of the bolt. Discounttire says 7.5 turns on a 14x1.5 thread. I did some once that only had about 6 turns but maybe I should have reamed the holes out more. Just want to make sure I am not advising you incorrectly.

Only downside I noticed is it is slightly annoying when trying to get the threads started while lining up the spacer. But you figure out ways to do it pretty quick and you don't need to remove the wheels that often.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

davevickery wrote:
I have bought several spacers for various wheels not just vanagons and I get the cheapest thing I can find.


I support a Vanagon specific vendor such as T3 Technique Exclamation
Chris has all fitment products covered and offers excellent quality parts.

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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having the same issue with my front tires contacting the upper control arms

I just need to run spacers for a short time, my tires barely contact the control arm but inspection wont pass me with this issue

I want to run these for a VERY short time will I need longer lug bolts with the 5mm spacer

http://gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=21890&category_id=372&category_parent_id=
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

davevickery wrote:
A 3mm spacer would be the cheapest and easist. So long as you can get 5-6 full rotations of the lug nut. Check how many rotations you get now to see if the 3mm would work or not. They cost $15/pr or less on line.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-WHEEL-SPACERS-5-LUG-3MM-...%26ps%3D54

If you can't get enough rotations you can buy longer 14x1.5 lug bolts with the same seat on line or from T3 maybe. Just adds another $30 or so to the total cost.

2x on this.. Do it now.. Save your tire while you sort out the longer term solution.

Get it driveable. And save your Vanagon bucks for Burley UCAs.

You might also check with your alignment guy and ask that 150lbs be placed in each of the front two seats during alignment. This *may* bring the adjustment range within spec WITHOUT use of the spacers. Remember, a van is never driven without at least 150lbs in the driver seat right? Wink

The Bentley discusses this (weight loaded) in its alignment specs.

Burley's UCAs are on my list for this year...
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those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

j_dirge wrote:


Get it driveable. And save your Vanagon bucks for Burley UCAs.

...

Burley's UCAs are on my list for this year...


Talk to Burley about what tires you have before you order arms.
I have Burley's 2WD tubular arms for standard height and they slightly rub (shinny groove) on my 215/70r15 tires when the tires are turned all the way. My front end is completely rebuilt with poly bushings. I just ordered 3mm spaces from Chris at T3 and he is machining them to fit my front big brakes.

I have mentioned this to Burley maybe he can spare a bit of metal from the arms in the area where contact happens. I thought about grinding a bit of the arm but the contact happens at a tight spot too close to the weld bead.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madspaniard wrote:
j_dirge wrote:


Get it driveable. And save your Vanagon bucks for Burley UCAs.

...

Burley's UCAs are on my list for this year...


Talk to Burley about what tires you have before you order arms.
I have Burley's 2WD tubular arms for standard height and they slightly rub (shinny groove) ...

Thanks for the tip, E!

Burley mentioned those arms came back once for a slight modification.. but they still rubbed? Was that a separate issue from the first adjustment?

Any chance you can click a pic for us? May be of value for anyone needing slight mods to his "off-the-shelf" UCAs.

Because I am runnig 16s and 225r75/16s, I'll be in a different 3 dimensional contact zone than most when dealing with tire rub.. but it is good to be aware of these other fitments when trying to troubleshoot my own.
My UCAs will be a semi-cutsom job, I am thinking, as I am wanting to tilt the tire in a bit on upward swing.

Burley is a 2WD guy at heart from his racing days.. and he's pretty stoked to building for the 2WD crowd.

Remember to find me at BurningVan, E.. I have the 16" swing arms in..
Dangerous. Laughing That planned mod with 930s, is adding some serious Vanagon bucks to the overall project budget. Very Happy
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"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jim,

yes, the first modification was just minor due to small spec differences between mid and late Westy models, he just did some minor grinding adjustmenets where the spacers go to attach the arms to the van.

The rubbing is a different issue probably related to going from stock tire size to 215s. I have ET 30 Rhein wheels.

Here is a pic I took a while ago with my phone and a flashlight when the van was off the ground, look at the dark circle on the inner side of the tire. The pic was taken with straight front tires so there is no contact as it looks, contact only happens with tires turned all the way in and only at the back end of that rounded lip protruding from the arm.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Below are the inch diameters of the various tire sizes being discussed: (please correct me if your tire diameter is different than the ones I looked up)

you folks may want to track your fender to axle height data, when reporting rubbing with whatever tire and UCA you have. You might also consider you rim width and offset. I believe madspaniard and targis 58 both have Rhein rims, 6.5" wide, ET 30. FWIW the stock 14" alloy rim is 6" wide, ET 30..

here are the tire dimensions

stock 205x70x14 = 25.4" no custom fitment required
madspaniard 215x70x15 = 27" edit: no rubbing with stock UCA, Burleys UCA rubs.
targis58 215x75x15 = 27.8" custom fitment required (possible lift, or spacers, probably not Burleys UCA needed)
jdirge 225x75x16 = 29.3" not relevant to stock configuration, extensive mods required (possibly including front fender modifications)

Ball joint spacers did not prevent targis58's 27.8" tires from rubbing..

And madspaniard has tire rubbing with Burleys UCA's, with a 27" tire, so I dont think telling targis58 to use Burleys arms, will solve the problem.


Last edited by Jon_slider on Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't mention this before but my tires were not rubbing on the stock UCAs, rubbing was detected when I switched to Burley's tubular arms.

17.5" from fender to axle with Burley arms, early generation of syncro.org springs and spring pads in back to counter Westy lean.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider wrote:
jdirge 225x75x16 = 29.3" not relevant to stock configuration, extensive mods required (possibly including front fender modifications)

Ball joint spacers did not prevent targis58's 27.8" tires from rubbing..

And madspaniard has tire rubbing with Burleys UCA's, with a 27" tire, so I dont think telling targis58 to use Burleys arms, will solve the problem.

FWIW.. the thread is not discussing "stock configurations"
The OP is running 2" lift springs.

I think my setup is relevant to "stock" configuration, because my 16"s clear the OEM UCA lock to lock, compressed to extended... both with OEM springs and 1.5" lift springs.

The only mod required to run those tires on an ET37 rim was an effective 3mm spacer. I changed to wheel studs at that time to accommodate an 8mm spacer (which became a disk brake hat at a later time). and the project became a rabbit hole with the addition of Audi G60s.
But I digress..


So now we know that this is an issue with the OP's tire and wheel size and ET dim using 2" lift springs and GW BJ spacers.


The least expensive solution, as Chris pointed out, is a simple 3mm spacer.. maybe 5mm. Though I caution on moving the OPs tire outboard much more as that may introduce potential for more fender contact.
Or just remove the BJ spacer all together, for the timebeing, until a better solution can be remedied.. How far out of spec is alignemtn without the BJ spacer?


FWIW.. the contact would happen without the 2" lift springs, as well.. just not as often. If you follow the geometry, contact would be made with OEM springs but it would require more extension of the spring. Probably not without uneven pavement introduced to induce such.
Since the van is now raised 2" in its geometry, that contact happens more often/consistenly.

Spring lifts do not necessarily create any additional room for a larger tire and/or wheel.


It seems to me, that if one were to follow Madspaniard's advice and inform Burley of the contact issue and the tire sizes/ETs used, he'd be able to modify his product to work in that particular application.


In my case a 16" wheel moves the widest part of the tire UP.. and may avoid any contact with either OEM or a Burley UCA. (I have experienced none at lock to lock.)

The Burley UCA address other "issues" as well. It allows more range towards alignment spec (fixing the GW 2" lift/ BJ spacer problem), eliminates the squeaky bushing annoyance, and if it is true what MS says.. a small removal of material solves the wheels to lock/contact issue.

Burley's UCA is a viable solution, and since his products are mostly semi-custom, he can address these unexpected problems as well. IMO it is a better long term solution than the GW spacer, albeit more expensive.


Thats just my limited experience in fitting "too-big" tires and wheels on my 2WD Westy front suspension.
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-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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