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My 2012 quest for Bently Section 9
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:28 pm    Post subject: My 2012 quest for Bently Section 9 Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
Have you gone thru all the items in the 21 pages of Lube and Maintenance section of your manual? That's not repair but just routine maintenance.



Alright. I'll bite.

I've been fishing for a project as of late and this sounded like a good challenge. I have tomorrow off and think I can get a start (though this will undoubtedly be an ongoing project).

The Rules:

A.) Each procedure must be able to be done with the tools on hand (no specialty). Though im willing to buy within reason.
B.) Items covered must be relevant to a 1972/Type IV/Dual Weber 40 set up.
C.) Photographic evidence not required (honor system), but bonus points can be awarded for documentation.

I'll edit this post and add the list below when I get some of the steps under my belt and I can add pictures. Reading though, I'm not familiar with all the parts in the section, but that's what this is about: learning a bit more.

-----------------------------------------------

4.1 – Oil change service: (Waiting on torque delivery)
a.) Engine: change oil, clean oil strainer, check for leaks, check crankcase breather rubber valve
b.) Battery check: Clean and grease terminals
c.) Windshield washer fluid level

4.2 – Vehicle and Emission control checks: 6000 miles

Engine and clutch
a.) Generator and V belt: check tension and condition (5/8 in. deflection)
b.) Ignition dwell/timing with electronic equipment
- 1. Additional clean and oil components (motor grease on pivot, multipourpose on the advance plate guide ball).
- 2. Dwell should be 42-58 degrees or gap should be 0.4-0.5mm (no points but what the hell): It's 40, gap is about 0.5mm on Petronix (Done)
- 3. Timing should be 7.5 btdc Around 6 seems right.(Done)
c.) Compression check:
d.) Exhaust system damage?: (Done)
e.) Manual transmission: check the clutch pedal freeplay (13) should depress 3/4 in.
f.) Engine: Check the engine oil level (Done)

Transmission and rear axle
a.) Drive shafts: check the boots for leaks
b.) Check transmission for leaks: Weaps a bit, but nothing spectacular. (Done)
c.) CV screws (25 ft/lb)
d.) Inspect shock absorbers:

Front axle and steering
a.) Front axle: Check the dust seals and the ball joint plugs for proper fit (Done) .
b.) Ball joints: Check the play
c.) Steering : Check the play. Check the tie rods and the dust seals on the tie rod ends
d.) Steering damper and steering gear leaks:

Brakes, wheels, and tires
a.) Brake system: Check for damage and leaks - Nope (Done)
b.) Brake pedal: Check the pedal freeplay and the pedal travel (brake adjustment)
c.) Parking brake: Check the adjustment
d.) Brake fluid: Check the level - (Done)
e.) Brake linings or pads: Check thickness
f.) Tires (including spare): (Done)

Electrical System
a.) Headlights, high beam indicator light, parking lights, side marker lights, license plate light, emergency flasher stop lights, taillights, back-up lights, turn signals, horn, rear window defogger and brake warning light. (Done)
b.) Headlights: Check adjustment
c.) Wipers: operation (Done)
d.) Windshield washer: operation
e.) Battery check: Check the voltage under load

Test drive
a.) Check braking, clutch, steering, heating, ventilation system and overall vehicle performance.
b.) Check interior lights and the instrument lights (Done)
c.) Check ignition steering lock and the buzzer alarm (Done)
d.) Check the safety belt warning light and the buzzer alarm
e.) Check the warning lights for the generator and for oil pressure - Funcitoning at aux (Done)
f.) Check cylinder head covers for leaks

4.3 – Additional Vehicle and Emission control checks:
Additional @ 6000 miles

a.) Engine: Change oil. Clean oil strainer. Replace the oild finter
b.) Valves: Check and adjust clearances (Done)
c.) Ignition distributor: Check and adjuste the dwell angle and timing (Done)
d.) Engine idle: Check and, if necessary, adjust (should be 850-950 rpm) (Done)
e.) Door hinges, door checks, sliding door mounting points and locks: Lubricate (Done)
f.) Manual transmission: check the oil level
g.) Front axle: Lubricate (Done)

Additional @ 12,000 miles
a.)Ignition system: Visually check the distributor cap and rotor - (Done)
b.)Spark plugs: Check – 0.60mm (.024 in)

Additional @ 18,000 miles
a.)Front axle: Lubricate (Done)
b.)Check the control flaps for preheated air

Additional @ 30,000 miles
a.) Front wheel bearings: Clean and repack
b.) Rear wheel bearings: Clean and repack

Additional @ 48,000 miles
a.) Activated charcoal canister


Last edited by Malokin Martin on Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:17 pm; edited 21 times in total
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pregame questions and shopping list:

1.) Im starting from just about scratch in the lube department. I have two large grease guns (tube kind for the zerks) and two big jugs of motor oil. What should I buy in the way of lubricants? Can anyone provide a list? I'll be shopping at a generic auto parts store. I could make a quick run for something special if you had any necessities not available there, but try to keep it "flaps available" if possible. Fire away!

2.) "crankcase breather valve": where is it located? Anyone have a picture?

3.) is "v belt" analogous to fan belt?

4.) Throttle positioner: I'm assuming that this was out with the stock carbs?

5.) socket head cv joint screw: im assuming that these are hex heads? And are these just a "hand tight" deal?
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, you are on an awesome new year venture. Best of success to you.
Your questions-
#1- Bentley section 9. You have to read the labels at the FLAPS.

#2- Get an early T-1 Bay and then forget about it. Or process of elimination. Identify everything else in the engine compartment.

#3- I don't know what analogous means but yes, our fan belts are V belts ad match the V shape of our pulleys. Not like new cars with serpentines and the flat belts.

#4- Section 9 is for stock. Don't let your mods and aftermarket stuff get you in trouble. It can. Keep an good inventory of what your engine is really composed of. It's really important to know what you have in detail. For instance, if you have a T-1 that has a case later than the stock factory engine it might have 8mm head studs instead of 10 mm which was stock. So torquing them per stock spec is overtightening and can result in pulled studs.

#5 Hex socket head cap screw is the industry standard name for that type of fastener. However instead of a hex most of the replacement screws are 12 point and need a 12 point tool for them. The hex wrench will fit but only getting half the grip and will probably strip them out. If yours are still hex then they are old and it would be good to put new ones in. Boot or joint kits usually have new ones. Torque per specs in in the torque chart in the rear axle chapter . Or have a failure leaving you dead along the road like some Samba people do. Good practice is with about every fastener on the bus to check the charts and see if there is a torque spec. Besides, you need the numbers to use your torque wrench.

When going thru section 9 it's a strong possibility that many of the items have never been done before.
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit of a slow start, but it’s been fun so far (minus the breakage on the brake drain valve).
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Some new old steel to help me out with the project!
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First off was the wires:
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Spent an afternoon removing some old speaker wiring and making sure everything was straight:
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First time the license light has worked since I’ve owned it. Man this took me forever to get right.
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Brake fluid looked black. Whoa… this hasn’t been done in a while…
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're the man Malokin Laughing
This is cool. Keep us a list of things Bentley had you do or check that would have resulted in a breakdown or failure it you hadn't found them.
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sofakingcool
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suddenly realized im getting old when I was very interested in someone doing maintenance on there vehicle.. crap.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sofakingcool wrote:
I suddenly realized im getting old when I was very interested in someone doing maintenance on there vehicle.. crap.


With age comes wisdom.

Aloha
tp
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aparrothead
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wisdom, aching back from contoring yourself in the engine compartment, sore muscles, headache from eye strain (bi-focals are a bitch), needing a buddy just to help you off the floor, and on and on and on. Very Happy
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sofakingcool
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very true guys. Keep up the good work man.
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