2332 rod length

[veedubnut]

OK engine builders here's a question for you: what length rod would you use on a 2332? 5.5? 5.6? 5.7? The reason I'm asking is that I notice in a lot of threads when setting deck height there are spacers under cylinders and copper shims on top of cylinders to get you where you want. I also notice that CB sells an aluminum case with 3 different raised decks cast in: 3.5., 7.0 and 9.5 along with standard. Wouldn't it be better to use the longest rod possible and machine down the case deck to get the deck height you want with no added spacers or shims? I don't know the math to figure this out...

[ALB]

If this is a high revving motor making all kinds of hp up top, then use a longer rod- 5.5" or 5.6". The motor will be getting really wide; this may cause problems getting it into an earlier car. For something that revs to 6500 rpms max and makes all sorts of torque for the street, I would stay with a 137mm (5.4") rod. The motor will just be a little bit wider than stock and have a ton of bottom end/midrange grunt!
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[slalombuggy]

When I talked to Pat at CB about which case to get, he said to use the 3.5mm deck case with a .020 shim to get .040 deck height. I'm running 5.5" rods on both my 2332s

brad

[mark tucker]

5.5 or longer.

[veedubnut]

3.5 cast in deck with an .020 shim...see that's my point. Wouldn't it be better to get a 7mm deck case then machine it down to get your desired deck height and therefore not use any shims or spacers? Is it a cost thing? Is it just easier to utilize the shims and spacers and leave the case deck alone? Am I overthinking this again????

[veedubnut]

What I'm saying is (using your numbers) a 3.5mm case deck using a 5.5 inch rod gives a deck height of .020. Adding the .020 shim under the head gives .040 deck height. So if you opt for the 7.0mm case deck, machine it down .117, wouldn't you still end up really close to .040 deck height with no spacers or shims?

[catbox]

On mine I am using 5.5" H-beam rods.

I am using an mag case along with Revmaster long cylinders machined to my measurement (+0.175"). They will make it so that I do not have any shims under the cylinder and the copper shim under the head is used to set a tight deck height.

With my Tims heads max'd out in chamber size I will have to have the pistons notched to achieve the compression ratio I am looking for.
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"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..." - Keith Seume.

[neil68]

One of the issues to keep in mind when deciding on rod length for a 2332 cc is the distance that the piston skirt will "protrude" from the bottom of the cylinder sleeve inside the case (ie. at the bottom of the stroke).

On my OEM mag case with 5.5" rods, the Mahle piston skirt comes out the bottom of the cylinder just a bit (~5 mm on the long part of the skirt), in the area where the case is clearancing for the rods. The rest of the piston (short part of the piston skirt) does not protrude at all.
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Neil.

Der Kleiner Rennwagens
68 Beetle 2332 cc, 204 WHP
12.5 seconds @ 107 mph
Dynojet Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo

[slalombuggy]

[veedubnut]

[[email protected]]

5.5s have their own share of problems specifically making the tin and exhaust fit.

You have to take ALL things into consideration when deciding on engine components. This is why the 5.5/78mm is a great combo for a bus.
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[mark tucker]

5.4 making gobs of torque and low end power,thats funny.it is amazing that a 5.5 rod will even be able to keep the motor running below 7ooo rpm.hmm wonder what length rod is a gobstoper? hey I got an idear!!! one of you computer wizzes can do a simulation on one of those engine programs and compair the exzact same engine with about 4 different length rods!!!! we might just find the gobstoper!!!I have the program but havent seen it in years.and yes they are very close if you put in the correct data.

[jamestwo]

5.325 engine will be same width as stock.
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hEY, lOOK, i'M WRONG HALF THE TIME, AND THE OTHER HALF i'M NOT SURE WHAT THE HECK i'M TALKING ABOUT. MY POST ARE FOR MY OWN ENTERTAINMENT VALUE ONLY.

[veedubnut]

Ok, ok let's stay on track here. All armchair humor aside, I think I am asking legitimate questions here. I'm just trying to learn enough to be comfortable in selecting the right parts for what I want out of the engine when the time comes. I'm trying to learn what works and what doesn't but more importantly why. Knowledge is useless without understanding it. Most of us don't have the luxury to try multiple combinations of parts to achieve what we want, we have to make an educated decision, stick with it, and hope for the best outcome. And anyways, gobstoppers are nothing but sugar and bad for your teeth!

[jamestwo]

I'm just saying i used the 5.325 rods in my 2332.

Benifits-

1.All the tin fits, it will fit in a old bug easy, because it's actually ends up being a little narrower.

2. Tons of torque, the short rods work the ports hard, keeping velocity up, and the torque down low.

Disadvantages-

1 Rods that short are hard to find in a chevy journal especially

2. you need a good flowing head to make much HP

3. engine cylinders will not have the same life, but most people are not driving a 2332 everyday any way.

4. you have to use a slipper skirt piston.


My 2332 you can start in third gear and run it out to100 mph, pretty wide power band.

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hEY, lOOK, i'M WRONG HALF THE TIME, AND THE OTHER HALF i'M NOT SURE WHAT THE HECK i'M TALKING ABOUT. MY POST ARE FOR MY OWN ENTERTAINMENT VALUE ONLY.

[jamestwo]

How are you planning on using this motor and what is it going into?

If didn't want to spend the money on a short rod, go with the 5.5
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hEY, lOOK, i'M WRONG HALF THE TIME, AND THE OTHER HALF i'M NOT SURE WHAT THE HECK i'M TALKING ABOUT. MY POST ARE FOR MY OWN ENTERTAINMENT VALUE ONLY.

[catbox]

[veedubnut]

Mine will be a daily driver also, will be going in a Ghia. Won't be taking it cross-country but it will see trips down the freeways for a few hours at a stretch. Most driving in town is 40-50 mph and average freeway cruising is 70-80 mph. I want the teeth to chew the ass off all the retired Corvette owners, redneck 5.0 owners, and G-boy ricers but still get an average of 20 mpg if I stay out of it. Seriously considering the Porsche 914 5 speed transaxle conversion for my gearbox. I have an excellant photo'd how-to on that and my metal skills ain't too shabby, pretty sure I can pull it off correctly. I want to install 930 CV joints, stub axles, etc. for strength and longevity in the rearend too. Disc brakes, fat anti-roll bars, good Koni's, dry sump oiling, etc. I want to set it up to kick ass but last.

[jamestwo]

Run the 5.4 rods, Cb wedge port heads, Fk-8 cam.

1-5/8 exhaust. car will run low 13's easy.
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hEY, lOOK, i'M WRONG HALF THE TIME, AND THE OTHER HALF i'M NOT SURE WHAT THE HECK i'M TALKING ABOUT. MY POST ARE FOR MY OWN ENTERTAINMENT VALUE ONLY.

[veedubnut]

Was gonna run an 86C, Steve Tims stage 2's, 5.4 rods, 1 3/4 merged exhaust, 48 IDFs, 1.4:1 rockers...