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New guys buggy project!
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pallen
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: New guys buggy project! Reply with quote

HI guys just jumped into my first VW!

I have been into jeeps for a long time and currently have a moded XJ. I was just browsing craigslist and ran across this and couple days later it was mine.. I want to get it up and running/ driving. Still not 100% sure on how in depth on restoring I want to go. I know I can spot all kinds of things just from pics of jeeps so here are some pics for the experts on VWs! The title says 78 but I don’t know for sure.

I need to get into some searching but would appreciate any and all comments!!

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But it didnt take me long to get it running!
Ownner said it had sat for 7 or 8 years.

http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/98xj06/?action=view&current=VID_20120215_190839.mp4
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pallen
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So first question. It has NEAL pedals, the master cylinders need work. Do I rebuild them for 50 or new cylinders diffrent brand for 45???

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...-cylinders

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...-cylinders

Heres mine,

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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace the master cylinders.
There are better ones out there then the China ones. Wilwood and other make replacement.
If you are thinking of going to disc brakes you need something with a larger reservior.
Also if replacing the the slave cylinder I found the purple one Speedway Motors has is a cheaper way to go. Looks just like a Neal or CNC.

Nice project, looks something like an El Lobo body. Have fun with the build.
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to verify the Vin number on the pan to the title and/or registration before you go too far on that pan.

That rear is a swing axle and can be up to and include a 1968 bug but the front end is only through 1965.
If your title states a 1978 there is something fishy going on.
The back flat area around the rear inspection cover of the pan has the Vin number.

Post it.
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pallen
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The title is a "kit car"... the only number plate I cab find is this, it matches the one on the tittle..

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GTBRADLEY
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries. It looks to have an assigned title and VIN then.
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pallen
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pan/frame needs some repair but not much. I want to paint it all. What do you guys like to use? Whats the most durable do it your self stuff avaliable? For thr interior section I was thinking some bedliner/ herculiner stuff. It has held up well inside my jeep so I think It would be good here, but I dont want to do everything in it.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I can see of the body, it looks to be a El Lobo.

Nice project!
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For pan cleanup and paint.... First I would media blast if option is available ( and the do any exposed repairs necessary) .... It's a real pain to try to clean it with wire brush and hand power tools.....

I usually primer mine as soon as possible (same or next day as media blast) with "Rust-O-Leum" primer (actually brushed on to get real sloppy wet in all nooks and carnies and actually seal things) ... Then "color coat" of Rust-O-Leum Satin Black... Real easy to touch up with brush or rattle can if need be...

Do not be to concerned about year model and VIN number when it come to year..... VIN stamped on pan (if its still there) near opening for access to shifter linkage will be year pan was actually assembled as a Beetle.... The date on title will probably be year the modified "buggy" was re-titled as a "custom build" car....

IF there is a "state" supplied VIN tab on car (appears to be) and and all paper work reflect correct numbers, registration should not be a problem....

Also if possible I would go back to standard VW pedal assembly and cable controlled clutch and VW master cylinder.... Less dollars then restoring-rebuilding NEAL pedal setup....

Dale
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Last edited by Dale M. on Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pallen wrote:
The title is a "kit car"... the only number plate I cab find is this, it matches the one on the tittle..

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And I will bet it is riveted on tunnel right over original VW VIN number.... DO NOT DISTURB IT IN ANY WAY.... State DMV people get all "pissy" about any VIN that appears molested....

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Note circle in sketch, this is location of original VW VIN location...

Dale
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pallen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I did some investigating and found I have a KO engine so type 3/66-72/54HP, well at least the block. It also has a weber 32/36 carb on it.

I teared into it a little more, Who ever did the conversion did a very sloppy job, I dont think they had a tape measure..... The splice looks decently sound. I think Im just going to true it up a bit and add in a few more supports in.

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I dont know what this stuff was but it was nasty, it at least kept the metal from rusting though...

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Any reason you can see why this strap was added in? It just goes over the trans, I dont see why it would be needed.

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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pallen wrote:
Any reason you can see why this strap was added in? It just goes over the trans, I dont see why it would be needed.


It was added because the transmission mount at the nose of the transmission got old and allowed the front of the transmission to swing upward and make a loud and annoying thunk every time the previous owner let out the clutch. Instead of replacing the transmission mount with a new one, he drilled big holes in the frame horns and added that strap. Its the kind of work you'd expect from someone who just cut the front bulkhead of the body out to install new pedals instead of fixing the ones he had.

You can get a new transaxle mount or even upgrade it with a heavy duty one.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=643

If you remove the strap, weld up the holes the PO drilled in the frame horns. They will crack and break.

While your at it junk those hydraulic pedals, glass up the hole in the body a reinstall a set of stock pedals with a dual circuit master cylinder and clutch cable.

I wouldn't leave my engine and trans hanging by the axles in the garage. I don't think its doing your side covers any good. Put some blocks of wood under it


Last edited by BL3Manx on Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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pallen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info! Will get that new mount.
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pallen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have been looking at OE pedals and have some questions. I would need this, Does it need a mounting bracket or what?
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1437

But what about the clutch cable? all the replacments are just the cable no housing as I have none... Will an aftermarket one work with the stock pedal assembley?

One more question! Any Idea if there will be clearence to use the NEAL throttle pedal or should I get all the OE throttle pedal set up also.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pallen wrote:
Well I have been looking at OE pedals and have some questions. I would need this, Does it need a mounting bracket or what?
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1437

But what about the clutch cable? all the replacments are just the cable no housing as I have none... Will an aftermarket one work with the stock pedal assembley?

One more question! How does a factory throttle pedal mount? Or could I still use the NEAL one with the OE pedals..


Clutch cable tube should be in chassis (tunnel) already unless PO gutted it when shortening pan....

http://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/inside63tunnel.html

Factory throttle pedal mounts on clutch/brake pedal assembly (as all in one unit) and cable goes through tube in tunnel...

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Uses the two little nubs out front (lowest portion of pic) to hold throttle pedal shaft... (look close and note holes through nubs)...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a set for $15. They have the zirc which is nice. The hook needs to be replaced which is easy. You'd also need the brake push rod, pin, lock tab and stop tab.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1149810

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/721305113A.html

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1255957

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1071615

The bolts to mount the cluster to the chassis are

M10x30mm 1.5 pitch with a 17mm head. VW part number N 010 230 8

Check that the nut plates are still in place and also feel up inside the tunnel with your fingers to see if the clutch cable tube is there and is secure. If you look at the hole the pedals fit in, the tube should be at the 1 o'clock position, back inside a bit.

Here's a dual circuit master and reservoir.

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=


http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=

The two master cylinder mount bolts had spacers which kept the bolts from crushing the bulkhead when they were tightened. Look inside your bulkhead to see if they're still there. The two bolts are 8mmx40mmx1.25 pitch

pallen wrote:
One more question! Any Idea if there will be clearence to use the NEAL throttle pedal .


Yes

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Last edited by BL3Manx on Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:34 am; edited 2 times in total
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pallen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the great info! Its starting to make more sense.

It currently has no ebraks also, is it as simple as two of these...
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/609721113F.html

and a shorting kit,
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC000703
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the parking brake tubes are in there, those cables and the shortening pieces should be all you need.

Those will work fine for parking brakes but the ones they sell for the clutch cable are no good. If you wind up using a clutch cable either use cable saddle clamps or read one of the other threads on the subject on how to shorten the clutch cable.
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pallen
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So whats your guys thoughts on tire and wheels?

It has the narrow on the front and wide in the rear... The tires are shot and the wheels are rusty. Im not against painting the wheels and new tires but not sure on the big wide tires on the back. It also has adapters on the rear... Measure 5x4.75

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Im looking for the most cost effective approach, maybe new wheels and craigslist tires type of thing...

Whats the thoughts on wheels like these...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1263505
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd look for 15x7 or 8 rear and 14x 5 or 6 front. 5x4.75 is the Chevy bolt pattern. There ought to be something reasonable there in Michigan off a Chevy second hand. Maybe even a set of old American or Ansen Mags.
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