2.0 fuel injection any good??

[guppysoup]

I¦m looking at a van with a 2.0 fuelinjected motor. Is that fuel injection system a reliable one? I had a friend with an injected square back and he had nothing but problems. Is the 2.0 a good solid motor? I only have experience with bugs and 1600 dp motors, I love em! I just hope the 2.0 is as much of a workhorse. Thanks GJ

[nodtobob]

When the fuel injection is running good and everything works it is a good system, but when they are not running good then they are full of headaches. They are reliable and have better performance, but they have to be treated good. Putting new hoses on these old systems, fixing the vacuum leaks and good fuel filters. I had FI on my first bus that was a nightmare but it was the operators(me) fault for not running good. Then I had a squareback that had FI and rebuilt the system myself, not really needing just did after pulling the motor to do the clutch and it ran like a champ and never failed me after I massaged all the parts back to good order. New fresh rubber hoses that didn't crumble when you touched them. Anyway I do like them but I drive a simple 1600sp which I like alot. Just depends on what you want. Good luck anthony

[Tram]

The 2litre is a simpler injection system, and needs far less maintenance and know- how than the Type 3.

[ratwell]

No one likes the Type 3's D-Jetronic FI. The L-Jetronic system on the bus is much better and you only need a VOM and FI fuel pressure gauge to test every component. Everyone can make use of a vacuum gauge and dwell meter no matter what type of induction is used.

The 2L is a good motor and yes, the bus FI is reliable. It's starts easily at any temperature and no adjustments are required besides basic timing and dwell (unless you go to electronic igntion which I highly recommend for $60 then you only need to check the timing at typical mileage intervals).

There are no valve adjustments to worry about but I do suggest you set them once after you buy the bus from a stranger. There's no secret to keeping it in running order except making sure you have no vacuum leaks. I would also change all the fuel lines right after purchase so you eliminate the chance of burning the bus down. Additionally, after everything else checks out and you know all is right with the FI get the idle mixture set by a shop by measure the %CO in the exhaust. Vacuum leaks and lean mixtures will kill Type IV heads so spend $40 and ensure your engine lasts as long as possible.

The good thing about FI is that the components either work or don't. When it's not running right you can trace the symptom to a particular component fairly quickly. Finding a vacuum leak is probably the most elusive task unless it's a huge leak coming from a single hose or opening.

If you are buying a FI bus that is NOT IN RUNNING CONDITION you should test as much as possible so you can find out how much extra money you are going to be in for. The prices for new parts are expensive so keep looking for another bus unless the body is pristine. Used parts are always a good price but their life expectacy will be far reduced compared to new in most cases. What you need to check for:

- good wiring harness with all the connectors
- AFM that doesn't have a worn spring or track
- fuel pump that puts out 1.5L/min and doesn't make abnormal noise
- fuel pressure regulator that reads 36 psi w/ no vacuum and 28 with
- cold start valve that doesn't leak
- thermo time switch that isn't stuck on/off
- aux. air regulator that closes in about 90 seconds from room temps.
- injectors that spray conical patterns
- temp sensor 2 that reads ~2500 ohms at 68F
- decel valve working (high idle symptomatic)
- brake booster not leaking
- working EGR system if you live in a smog testing state like CA
- fuel vapour recovery system present if you live in CA
- working ECU

On top of that you need gaskets and hoses that aren't cracked but replacing everything in that category is inexpensive. The s-boot is NLA and has to be crack free but good used ones are around for trade.

I hope this doesn't turn you away: a long list of things that can go wrong but if you are smart and purchase a properly cared bus it will serve you well.

- ratwell
1978 FI Westfalia

[NeverHadaBeetle]

If you're looking for a van with a 2.0 liter FI engine then you need a 1976-79. These years are fairly similar except for a couple of exceptions. The 1976 FI system has several components that are not compatible with the 1977-83 systems so finding USED FI parts for the 1976 is sometimes a little more difficult. The 1976-77 both had solid lifters so you will have to continue regular valve adjustments. Hydraulic valves from 1978-up rarely require adjustments. Heads and exaust system is the same from 1975-78, but changed from 1979-83. The heads went from oval to square exhaust ports. I would avoid the 1976 because of the FI components and the 1979 because of the Vanagon style square port heads and exhaust. The 76 FI shares many of the 1975 1.8 liter FI parts and the 1979 shares many 1980-83 Vanagon parts so that will help some when finding used parts. Good luck with your search.

[ratwell]

Many agree that the best models are 1971 and 1978. FI started in 74 with the automatic model in CA but avoid it.

The 76 parts that are different vary by VIN: 226 207 7583 and earlier have a different EGR, exhaust cross-over tube and air cleaner with a preheat intake than the late 76 and following models. The AFM has 6-pins instead of 7 and the wiring harness is different to reflect this. None of those parts are available new so increase your chances of finding them at the junkyard by buying a 76 1/2 or later model.

Except for the AFM and ECU which changed every year including different models for MT and AT, all the other parts are the same. The charcoal canister became cylindrical and put behind the battery in 1978. Another drag about the 75 model is if you get the Westfalia it has the cluttered interior. The 76-79 campers have a better layout IMHO.

Starting in 77, the seats are a better design and the passenger seat in the camper swivels. Also the aux heater runs w/o the alternator running. In 76 the transmission become larger and has a bigger clutch and flywheel. All this info refines the choice to 77-78 which is what I would go for.

[pogolo]

Sorry....just had to refute my pal Ratwell. My early '76 has a swiveling chair AND the heater runs independent of the alternator. Ha!

[ratwell]

You're right. It's reclining that came with that model. Swivelling came earlier.

The early wiring diagrams show the booster fan in the engine compartment wired to the alternator (left-side of layout by battery/alternator). The later ones show it independent of the alternator (right side of fold-out).

When the engine is off you can still turn on the fan in the engine compartment?

[pogolo]

Tis true, the fan runs in the engine compartment with the engine off. But the ignition must be on. A reclining seat would be nice!

[[email protected]]

I like my 78 2.0 FI. It's a great, strong motor and runs like a charm. It's about time for an oil change, but other than basic maintenance, they're great. A friend of mine once told me that FI's are great if you take it to people who know how to work on them. Just make sure it's in a good condition before you buy.

Chase