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H6 Conversion- My New Problem.....
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Is the motor destroyed?
Yes!
44%
 44%  [ 4 ]
No, it can be re-built.
33%
 33%  [ 3 ]
Start saving money....
22%
 22%  [ 2 ]
Total Votes : 9

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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:38 am    Post subject: H6 Conversion- My New Problem..... Reply with quote

My exhaust broke the other day. As I drove (slowly!) to work, the engine started to knock. I had the exhaust welded at work, but the knock stuck around. Here is the video I made on Sunday.

Link

....And I have already posted this on the Subagon forum.
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The poll should have had a "all of the above" option.

You might want to stop running the engine until you tear into it a bit to see where the trouble is. I was cringing during the whole video and when you revved it up, it was like dragging your nails down a chalkboard.

I wonder if the shorten oil pan had anything to do with it or maybe your donor engine came out of a rollover. I don't know, do new cars have a safety feature that shuts the engine off as soon as the car goes belly up?

This has convinced me to leave my oil pan alone, though. Good luck.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are you still running the engine?

Since you are, I'd say its f'd.

Drain and screen the oil.
Pull the pan and check it and the sump for particles/ pieces of anything.

Where did the exhaust crack?

It sounds to me like a hole in a piston, but I'm thousands of miles away watching a video.
Its chugging right?
Sounds like a train to me.
Very difficult to diagnose under these circumstances.

If it was me, I would have the engine on a stand and opened up at the first sound like this.
Continuing to run this motor will cost you more and more to fix it, the longer it runs.
EZ30d long blocks are going for roughly $850 in my neck of the woods.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Killing one cylinder at a time and repeating your test, will take the load off of the cylinder to help narrow in on the noise. Rod bearings fail due to lack of lubrication or from detonation or a combination of both. If killing a cylinder at a time does not make a difference in the sound, it may be upper end. I would also remove all the belts to be sure it is not an external problem.
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xoo00oox
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you revved it up, I held my hand over my eyes waiting for a rod to punch through the case.
Stop running it and maybe it can be fixed. How did the exhaust break? Wasn't it all new?
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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the exhaust was fixed, I drove it home, and it has stayed put since. As far as taking the belt off, I hadn't thought of that, but then again, it does not sound like the power steering pump. I comes from under the pump. It sounds like #1 cylinder.
Insyncro- could you check on those motors for me? For $100, my shop's part supplier will ship a motor to my shop. My computer is a 01-02.
The donor motor DID come from a wreck. I had to replace the crank position sensor when I finished the build. This is the emergency shut off for the motor.
Yes, the exhaust was new. It broke on a welded seam, right under the trans.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This crack went just about all the way around. We had to pull the exhaust apart and weld it on the bench. Our Master Welder added a sheath over the weld just to beef it up. The pipes are thin, coated mild steel. I mentioned this to the guy I got my conversion kit from, and he said that he has since changed the quality of pipes he offers. He then offered me new pipes for cost of shipping.
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WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I understand it the stainless pipes had issues.
The replacement mild steel, coated inside and out are much more stout.
At the cost of shipping for them, that is a deal and no brainer Exclamation

As for motors, they are plentiful.
The low mileage ones are drying up fast.
Do a search, they will turn up.


Last edited by insyncro on Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah. Lets move this to PM. I found a way, but I gotta clear it through work, so I will let you know tomorrow.
Please look into the motors and let me know what is actually available and prices.
Cheers!
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WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As with other suggestions, pull power to each plug one at a time. If it's a rod, it should quieten down a little.

I'd also pull the sump and check for bearing material. How's the oil pressure?

Bummer... I know how it feels. Bad luck mate.

MG
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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about oil pressure (I don't have a pressure gauge), but I did spot a class 1 oil leak coming from under the crank-shaft pulley.
Oil IS full, BTW.
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WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
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xoo00oox
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is your oil light working right ?
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that rod would have let go by now-- you may have spun a cam shim or a lifter on the right side. pulling one plug at a time will hint to which cylinder.
my condolences--I too installed a hard-run engine with oil in my coolant now. a new engine is a good preventative with conversions. It lasted a while though.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Horrible engine to work on/in but reliable as hell.

Take a long small metal tube and listen to different location on the engine.
Pinpoint noise. Still, it's cheaper to simply find a new engine.

For me, this sound like a small end piston side knock
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess I'm missing something from what I've read here (is this a carry-over from another conversation?), but how does a small exhaust leak lead to a rod knock? It seems the only logical connection between the two would be a burnt exhaust valve from the introduction of super cool air into the exhaust stream. How about a simple diagnostic test like a compression test?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
I guess I'm missing something from what I've read here (is this a carry-over from another conversation?), but how does a small exhaust leak lead to a rod knock? It seems the only logical connection between the two would be a burnt exhaust valve from the introduction of super cool air into the exhaust stream. How about a simple diagnostic test like a compression test?


We shall see.
Im curious to know what happened, but not that curious.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A replacement ceramic coated mild steel header is on the way, look for it in your mail box soon.

Did you try to put a magnet to your existing header ? Unless the builder of that exhaust lied, it is indeed stainless steel, and they were not cheap.

www.stainlessheaders.com

If you need to replace the motor, I would recommend doing a leak down test on the "new" one before buying it, and unless the motor has less than 50k miles, it would be a good idea to replace the plastic chain guides and tensioner...

Their are plenty of those motors available here in the states, although a 2001-02 will probably have higher miles.

Eric
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just hoping I hadn't missed out on the Group Buy for the Samba "Jump to Conclusions Mat"

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude, that sounds bad...time to put an EJ2.5 in Wink
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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So thank you all for your help with finding a new engine. A special big thanks to whats-his-name for telling me I'm not worth his time, and doesn't deal with 'people like me' (?) via PM.
I found a new motor, had it shipped to Germany, and had it installed in two days.

And yes, it was a bearing. When I pulled the oil pan off the old motor, there were chips and pieces stuck to the magnets.
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WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea how this happened? I'm assuming it might be due to the situation (wreck) that led to it being available in the first place--> roll-over
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