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Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic
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Derek Cobb
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endicott jb wrote:
Derek Cobb wrote:
I think about 3 inches with stock shock towers.


3-1/2 inches is actually the max without any major modifications to the body or beam. When you get into the 4" range and further, you may as well cut the shock towers and run shockless.


It might depend on the car. I narrowed a beam 3 1/2 inches and definitely needed to modify the inner fenders. 67 beetle, never hit in the front. Maybe other years would allow it, but not this 67.

If I were to do it over I'd probably stop at 3 inches or plate the inner sections of the shock towers.
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mikegamblin
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have read all 37 pages of this, (whew!) and I've come to the conclusion that I want to put 2 1/2" dropped spindles with disk brakes on my 69 beetle with the stock beam. I also want to put American Eagle 5 spoke Empi clones (5 on 205 lug pattern, 15"X5.5", 3.688 back spacing). To put these on, I will be using 3/8" thick 5 to 4 lug adapters. I was thinking that I would round this out with 135R15 smart car tires.. Is there anything else I need to do to lower the front end and it be drivable? I'm looking (for now) to have that 80's lowered look.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikegamblin wrote:
So I have read all 37 pages of this, (whew!) and I've come to the conclusion that I want to put 2 1/2" dropped spindles with disk brakes on my 69 beetle with the stock beam. I also want to put American Eagle 5 spoke Empi clones (5 on 205 lug pattern, 15"X5.5", 3.688 back spacing). To put these on, I will be using 3/8" thick 5 to 4 lug adapters. I was thinking that I would round this out with 135R15 smart car tires.. Is there anything else I need to do to lower the front end and it be drivable? I'm looking (for now) to have that 80's lowered look.


Im thinking you might end up being too wide with the disc brakes and the 4 to 5 lug adaptors....
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mikegamblin
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm.. Well, I have to put the disc brakes on there. I'm still recovering from my accident in my 59 ragtop with drum brakes and I will never run those again. I guess I will have to get a shortened beam. Good thing Airkewld is right here in Phoenix.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a stock ball joint Beetle (stock spindles) does swapping from drum to disc brakes widen the front track?
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vee dub dan
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4" Narrowed beam - Currently around maximum height
Back was lowered 2 notches (inner)
145/65 front and stock 165s rear

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


How much psi do you guys run in these smaller tires? I guess low profile need more air and so the VW recommended of 18 is too low? A friend runs around 30.

Rear tires are rubbing on my emissions box, probably going to remove that soon as well as putting on the stock exhaust I just got.

Also getting a clunk noise from the back drivers side tire area.. haven't driven it yet, trying to figure out what it is.[/img]
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75smith
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

air pressure in tires stirs up lot of worms, but what I will say is that it depends on the weight of the car and the pressure rating of the tire.

for example, take a truck tire rated at a max of 85 psi, put it on a car(like class 11 style beetles) you probably want to run about 65psi, if you have a tire rated at 30 psi then the cars manufactures recommended tire pressure, a 45 psi tire 10 psi more than car manufacture recommend. alot of this has to deal with how the tire deforms at speed. taking a high pressure tire and blowing it up to the 20psi as recommended by the vehicle manufacture and you'll be rolling the bead in cornering because there isn't enough pressure to hold the sidewalls from rolling

another thing is to constantly watch your wear pattern, know when you have to much air(overinflated for tire or car weight) or too little air(under inflated)

your clunk is most likely a CV joint that has gone bad
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canvmnvw
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read this entire thread and not one post has mentioned the effect that worn front leaves plays on ride height. Yes after say 40-50 years of twisting back and forth, they do wear out. Shocked When they do, the front suspension will soften and gravity will naturally take the front end a bit lower. I just mention this because one person's coice of wheel, offset, tire size, lowering method etc etc may or may not have the same results on every car. The condition of the leaf (torsion plates) in the front axel tubes will definitely affect the ride height .... What might rub with worn leaves, might not with new ones.... and new leaves can also make a world of difference in the ride quality. Wink I'm just sayin... IMHO
happy motoring everyone.

By the way... GREAT THREAD Very Happy
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PaRacer
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
With a stock ball joint Beetle (stock spindles) does swapping from drum to disc brakes widen the front track?

Yes, slightly. There are disk brake kits that don't I guess. but the VW ones do.
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Chris Vellat
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PaRacer wrote:
EVfun wrote:
With a stock ball joint Beetle (stock spindles) does swapping from drum to disc brakes widen the front track?

Yes, slightly. There are disk brake kits that don't I guess. but the VW ones do.


The VW 'Ghia disc spindles aren't wider...Depending on the owner's manual you read, you may even find a drum brake car has a wider track, by several mm's.

I own three or four sets of CB spindles, and only use them on one car...I don't care for them on a car that's got a 'real' tire and is 'really driven' along with stock fenders...rather have an AVIS adjustable beam and stock 'Ghia spindles.
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Erikb91
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having troubles lowering the front end of my 71. I've been told i have an adjustable beam. So I checked how to lower and from what i saw i loosen the 4 bolts and then turn the longer out to expose more of it and it effectively lowers the front end. I was loosening and the bolts comes out so I'm not sure if its lowering it or not. I saw it on the airkewld video.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Some questions:
Do I have to loosen the upper bolts with an allen key too? I've only been loosening/messing with the two longer bolts as i understood those were what lowered it.
Are my beams adjustable? I see no weld points so I'm not sure.
How do I lower it?
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risk
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Erikb91 wrote:
Some questions:
Do I have to loosen the upper bolts with an allen key too?
Are my beams adjustable? I see no weld points so I'm not sure.
How do I lower it?


Yes, those are your beam adjusters and it looks like thats as low as you can go. Your beam is in the lowest position in your pics.

Tighten the upper bolts (grub screws) with an allen (just to make sure they are tight), then tighten the nuts down. Next screw the adjusters studs back in until they just contact the adjuster blocks, and tighten down those nuts.

This will put your beam in the lowest position. It will settle some after you put the car on the ground, but it's not going to slam it out. If you want it lower, get some drop spindles.
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mikemck
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hole in the block that goes over the set screw going into the beam is offset.

Make sure the narrow side is toward the adjusting screw (toward the ground).

In the photos it looks like maybe the wide side is there.
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mikemck
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have drop spindles and the lower ball joint rubs on the wheel.

I am already using 10 mm spacers.

I have concluded that what I need to do is ream out the tapered hole the ball joint goes into.

Can anyone tell me what reamer I need and where to get it?

Also, can I do this with an electric drill?

Thank you very much for any replies.
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nodak_85
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally think you might have a different issue. You shouldn't have to reaM out anything. Are you running an after market wheel?
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nodak_85 wrote:
I personally think you might have a different issue. You shouldn't have to reaM out anything. Are you running an after market wheel?

Agreed. Dropped spindles will place the lower ball joint / torsion arm very close to rubbing the inside of the stock wheel. With any alloy wheel that is thicker than stock it will definitely rub. Lightly grind the torsion arm to clear.

I really don't think you want to ream out the holes in the spindle where the ball joints mount. This would mess up the alignment and possibly create a dangerous situation.
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v68dub
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 68 does the same thing. Balljoint rubs the rim on my original Porsche 2 liter 4 lugs. I'm going to swap them out for the steel wheels tomorrow as spacers didn't do anything. I'm running a adjustable beam and drop spindles.
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nai
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: adjusters narrowed dropped spindles Reply with quote

hi everyone out there

I own a 69 bug and just bought a pair of dropped spindles and sway away adjusters and would like to narrow it.

ive got 2 questions

1) will i be able to use 14 inch wheels with dropped spindles
2) being a daily driver whats the best narrowing size keeping in mind that it won`t hit the inner panels when the steering is at full lock position

thanks alot Ian
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both of your questions depend on wheel offset.you may not be able to run 14 inch wheels with drop spindles, they rub on the lower ball joint on lots of cars with 15 inch wheels with specific Any significant backspacing
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Livin'LaVdubLoca
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Derek Cobb wrote:

It might depend on the car. I narrowed a beam 3 1/2 inches and definitely needed to modify the inner fenders. 67 beetle, never hit in the front. Maybe other years would allow it, but not this 67.

If I were to do it over I'd probably stop at 3 inches or plate the inner sections of the shock towers.


x2. In the exact same boat. 67 - 3.5" narrow. Rub/sits on shock towers. I'm just going to chop em off!
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