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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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Shaun Murray
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Aaron, thanks. I figured you would ask me to scrape your decal off this heap.
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Shaun Murray
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need rear shocks for my '66 with a straight axle. Should I get a set of beetle rear shocks, or will a different shock work better?
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaun Murray wrote:
I need rear shocks for my '66 with a straight axle. Should I get a set of beetle rear shocks, or will a different shock work better?


This is a good place to start:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...;start=440
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Shaun Murray
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Split 66' wrote:
Shaun Murray wrote:
I need rear shocks for my '66 with a straight axle. Should I get a set of beetle rear shocks, or will a different shock work better?


This is a good place to start:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...;start=440


Thanks, I must have overlooked that page.
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ratherb-buggin
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm no newbie to the search feature, but I'm having trouble finding more than one source for steering box covers. Any help? I found the one from Neil (Jonesy on Samba).
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Tire rubbing on torsion housing Reply with quote

Hi everyone,
Me and some friends did a straight axle conversion on my 66 bus the other weekend. When I had the bus RGB transaxle in, I had dropped the rear one outer spline. I wanted close to the same ride height, so when I put the bug transaxle in, I re-adjusted my new offset springplates back down one spline since I was losing the RGBs. When everything was back together, I was little higher than before. I didn't want to do a full outer spline (7.5 degrees) so I did a combination of inners and outers to get about 5.45 degrees of drop.

Now, the inside of my drivers side tire is rubbing just barely on the corner of the torsion housing. I grabbed a pic from the gallery and circled the area in red that I'm referring to.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



My current set-up is:
1966 Bus
67 bug transaxle with 68 long/long axles.
Womack offset plates
4 lug late model beetle backing plates/drums/brakes
4 to 5 lug adapters
Tires are 195/75/14

I'm just barely rubbing this corner. What should I do??? Do they make different thickness 4 to 5 lug adapters? Could I grind a mm or 2 of the corner of that casting? Skinnier tires?

Is this a common issue? I tried searching but couldn't find any other mention of rubbing this part.

I'm at a reasonable height, the bottom of the fender well is dead even with the top of the rim. I still have a hint of positive camber.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks for looking!
Eric
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EmpiGT
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you got bus 14's on there, you already doing pretty good. They have such an offset that you can't even run them on the rear of a short axle bug, without having them touch the spring plates. If all you need is a mm or two you should be fine grinding the nubs that much. As it is just a stop for the plates to hit.
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Before I dropped it, the positive camber was worse and I was rubbing the bottom of the spring plate slightly when in reverse. Dropping it another 5 degrees got me away from the springplate, but moved me closer to that cast piece.

I really hate grinding it, seeing how its not really a replaceable part, and dont want to be hated forever by its next owner, but don't know what else to do. I plan to keep this bus for a very very long time though, and its a very small amount that needs to be removed, so I suppose that's what I'll do.

Thanks!
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Busryder
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxcap wrote:
Thanks!

I really hate grinding it, seeing how its not really a replaceable part, and dont want to be hated forever by its next owner, but don't know what else to do. I plan to keep this bus for a very very long time though, and its a very small amount that needs to be removed, so I suppose that's what I'll do.

Thanks!


Consider something like this before you commit...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm running bus 14's with a spacer in a similar setup.

Just a thought...
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you also have the 4 to 5 lug adapters? I saw those spacers on CIP1 (1 inch I believe), but just feel it's kind of sketchy safety wise having adapters and spacers. thoughts on running the two together?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope... just a wide five drum.

~400mi since install, re-tightened after first few trips to the store.... no problems yet, and I have been brave enough to take the freeway too.
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Shaun Murray
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxcap wrote:
Do you also have the 4 to 5 lug adapters? I saw those spacers on CIP1 (1 inch I believe), but just feel it's kind of sketchy safety wise having adapters and spacers. thoughts on running the two together?


If you're worried about running the two together, you can switch to Thing or type 3 wide 5 drums. They are about 5/8-3/4" wider than bug drums I believe. I'm running Thing drums on my '66 with a '68 long axle bug transmission(originally 4 lug) with the bug brakes and backing plates and they work great. They are a direct bolt in replacement, the only thing I changed was I drilled and tapped the lug bolt holes to accept the 14mm bus lug bolts. Then you could bolt the wide 5 spacers directly to the drum, just a thought.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just used super beetle front cyls in the rear (had to ream the backing plate a bit), and some bullshit chrome swap meet buggy drums (fixed a spun drum)... been there for a while now... but the spacers and stocker rims are new-to-me this last month.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaun Murray wrote:
fluxcap wrote:
Do you also have the 4 to 5 lug adapters? I saw those spacers on CIP1 (1 inch I believe), but just feel it's kind of sketchy safety wise having adapters and spacers. thoughts on running the two together?


If you're worried about running the two together, you can switch to Thing or type 3 wide 5 drums. They are about 5/8-3/4" wider than bug drums I believe. I'm running Thing drums on my '66 with a '68 long axle bug transmission(originally 4 lug) with the bug brakes and backing plates and they work great. They are a direct bolt in replacement, the only thing I changed was I drilled and tapped the lug bolt holes to accept the 14mm bus lug bolts. Then you could bolt the wide 5 spacers directly to the drum, just a thought.


Or you could run the cheaper and more readily available 4 lug late type 3 rear brakes with 4-5 lug adapters. I built my neighbor's 64 panel with this setup and it worked out perfectly.
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jaime sd
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 2:49 pm    Post subject: i lowered my vw bus 1970, but i cant fit tires in the rear, Reply with quote

SoCal Chuck wrote:
Here is my 67 Westy that I owned when I was 18 years old, dont mind the blanket as I was hiding a hit and run accident. I lowered this bus the poor mans way and yes it has RGB's. For the front I chopped the ends off the torsion bars making stacks for them to still attach to the trailing arms. All were chopped except 2 largs ones. It slammed really low with no flipped spindles and no adjustable beam...and it rode nice on air shocks. The rear I notched the spring plates and set them in a lowered position. It drove great on the fwy but I had a major camber. Very ghetto and unsafe but at the time it was the way to go.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: but the tires wont fit in the back, what sizes are better? Reply with quote

Bongo wrote:
Dubdemons, 1 notch on the torsion bar will give you about 2½ inches of drop, which if you combine with a 4-4½ inch drop at the front with dropped spindles, gives a pretty good stance. Turning them just one click doesn't give that much camber, and toe-in looks shabby anyway!
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have about 1/8th of an inch of play in my kingpin on the passenger side, the play is located here:

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These are stock spindles on an old Busboys adjustable beam. Is it time to have the kingpins rebuilt? Are they safe at this point?

Thanks.
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WideFive
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Split 66' wrote:
Is it time to have the kingpins rebuilt?

Yes.
Split 66' wrote:
Are they safe at this point?

No way to be 100% certain of what's going on in there, but I wouldn't drive it across the country or anything.
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply Aaron, I know who to contact when I make the decision Cool .

I am at a crossroads here, in as far as my adjustable beam. *I like the ability to return to stock height, with just an adjustment. Though since lowering it in '90, I haven't thought about returning to stock height.

That said, do dropped spindles make for a smoother ride than what I am running now? Are they worth the commitment, to only being lowered?

Thanks again.
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WideFive
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you've already made the decision to be lowered Wink

Spindles are the logical 1st step when lowering, then using the beam (adjusters) to get you lower. I don't know if you'll notice a difference in "smoothness" of ride or not, but it won't be any worse.
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