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didget69
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Looks like your engine might suffer from heat intake as cooling air intake draws heat off of the exhaust in this configuration... did you see Lo Cash John's approach to a T3 buggy exhaust?


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bryan
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so I picked up some of those zip tie self adheisive mounts and some jb weld from the local carquest. I tested one out by sticking it to the rustomeum bed liner stuff I have on the underside of my buggy. worked great!!! I tried to pull one off and I thought i was going to rip the fiberglass apart. really cleaned up the wiring. everything is also wrapped in wire loom. even if one didnt get the best hold and eventully falls off I can just jb weld them back on. I think I put one every 8". also they only had white ones, but a quick coat of spray paint to make them black was all it took.

as far as the exhuast goes, any ideas? how about wrapping the 4 pipes in some heat tape? or maybe make some kind of funnel to get the cooling air from in front of the pipes? the only way to really tell if its going to effect cooling or not is to run it and monitor both cylinder head and oil temps. im still aways out from driving it, but ill post results as soon as I can.I
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Bob Elgin
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used flex seoal on my buggy. Cant go wrong with the new technology for sealing up our buggies. Good job keep up the good work.
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob Elgin wrote:
I used flex seoal on my buggy. Cant go wrong with the new technology for sealing up our buggies. Good job keep up the good work.


What part of the buggy did you need to "seal up"?
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, im exited and pissed off at the same time. the buggy moved under its own power today. drove it about 20 feet forward and back. sat my ass on the floor and putted out the garage to the driveway and back. it was awsome. but then i found out my gas tank has a leak in it. bummer. i dont know what happened. it had a small hole in the top and i fixed it before i installed it. found it while wire wheeling it. i filled it up with water to test my patch and it held fine. no leaks. so i dont know if i got a leak when i bolted it down or when i was trying to install the hood. it was a huge pain in the ass to get the hood to go over the steering coloumn support, over the gas tank filler, and it has to go under the front of the tub. i am not looking forward to haveing to remove it. lot of cussing and scratched paint. anyways, heres what it looks like today.

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so you can see in a pic. that ive got a gas can catching the dripping gas.
the windshield is the one i got from buggyfaron. i need to replace the tinted glass with some road saftey glass.

also. whats with the vw gas tank. i noticed i had to put about 2 gallons of gas in the tank before it even made it to the fuel pickup tube. why is that? the pickup tube is in the middle of the tank, not at the low point. the tank is at so much of an angle im not getting the full potentol of the tank. im thinking if ive got to do some patch work to the tank(im thinking its leaking at the seam.) i might as well move the pickup tube to the low point. i probably should just buy a new tank. its just money, right?
so far, 1.5 years and $5000 into it.
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so its leaking at the seam. both front corners now have a steady leak. dont know why. I filled it wih water to test for leaks and to see if my tank patch kit worked on the top of the tank. anyways, what can I do to fix it? I really dont want to buy a new tank. I know I should. one reason is safety. the other is because its such a pain in the ass to get the hood off. what would you do? still on a tight budget, dont have an extra 150 plus shipping for a new tank. might be another month till that happens. can I maybe roll the seam up and weld it?ive never used a tank sealer before. will it work on this?
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason water didn't show the leak but gas does probably has to do with the molecular make up of the two different fluids. I could probably get my wife to explain (she minored in organic chemistery) if you want.

If I were you I'd pull the tank, wash it out three times with a hot water/detergent mix then weld it properly.
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so I got another problem. found out ive got a brake fluid leak at the brake switch threads. how do you seal that one? I tried thread tape and tried tightening the switch down several times till I twisted the threads right off the switch. so I had to pull the master cylinder to easy out the piece of switch. reinstalled with another switch and same thing. its an overnight leak. maybe a couple drips a night. I dont know what to do. I dont understand how it seals. theres nothing for it to seal against.

think I fixed the gas tank though. it was leaking at the seam on the front 2 corners. picked up a gallon of Red-Kote and did 3 coats. im going to let ir sit for a few more days but its looking good.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pipe thread tape/a.k.a. 'Teflon tape', etc., is one area where the concept of 'if one wrap is good, then more wraps are better' is a falsehood.

Was the brake master cylinder a new unit?

Sending unit or brake switches use a tapered pipe thread - try using paste-type pipe thread sealant. Coat threads lightly with paste, then reinstall. But first, check the threads in master cylinder to be certain that the problem is not in the master cylinder. Don't over-tighten the switch when installing it.

bryan
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dan macmillan
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
Pipe thread tape/a.k.a. 'Teflon tape', etc., is one area where the concept of 'if one wrap is good, then more wraps are better' is a falsehood.

Was the brake master cylinder a new unit?

Sending unit or brake switches use a tapered pipe thread - try using paste-type pipe thread sealant. Coat threads lightly with paste, then reinstall. But first, check the threads in master cylinder to be certain that the problem is not in the master cylinder. Don't over-tighten the switch when installing it.

bryan

This is not correct. Brake switches andthe oil press switch have M10x1.0 straight threads. Never use any type of thread sealant on any brake parts.

The brake switch seals against the bottom of the hole while the oil switch uses an o-ring or gasket. Many people use a 1/8 tapered pipe thread oil press sw as it happens to almost fit, but it is not right.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stand corrected. Dan is correct for factory German master cylinders.

I have installed aftermarket replacement VW brake master cylinders that most definitely have NPT thread ports for brake switches.

There has been discussion on this in past that I didn't look up until now.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=317329

And some suppliers sell brake switches that have been pre-coated with thread sealer, so someone - somewhere along the way - obviously felt a need to seal the threads.
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Last edited by didget69 on Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:32 am; edited 2 times in total
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still dont see how it seals. the hole in the master cylinder is deeper than the threads on the switch. I cant see it sealing if I tighten it all the way down.
it was a new master cylinder. the chrome "dune buggy" one. I was messing with it last night and its already taken a dump. blead the brakes. was pumping the peddle by hand to see where the leak was coming from and all of a sudden there was no resistance in the brake peddle at all. I can push the peddle down to the floor with one finger. opened the resivior cap and no fluid movement.

this is rediculous. im going to get a new master. the dual cylinder one. having a little trouble finding a resivior for it though. the volvo one. ive been getting most of my stuff from chirco and berrien buggy.
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some suppliers have caught on to the Volvo reservoir trick and are selling what is basically a copy (or maybe old Volvo stock?). I forget who has them but I'll bet someone will chime in with info.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lo Cash John wrote:
Some suppliers have caught on to the Volvo reservoir trick and are selling what is basically a copy (or maybe old Volvo stock?). I forget who has them but I'll bet someone will chime in with info.


The most admired supplier of all time, EMPI. Rolling Eyes
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karu
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This reservoir in CB performance????

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=91
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

new lights for my speedo.
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so i wrapped the exhaust in an exhaust wrap. makes a bit of difference in the temperature of the exhaust pipes. still hot to the touch, not burn your skin off hot. im currently working on the dash. ordered a vdo oil temp guage, a vdo volt meter gauge, and an auto meter tach. as you can see in the picture ive kinda got a plan on how i want them layout. oil temp guage and warning light to the left of speedo. volt meter and warning light to right of speedo. bottom left will be headlight switch (which you can see dangling at the moment) and the hazard switch which ive ordered from my local napa autoparts. should be here soon. my speedometer is from the 74 superbeetle donor bug so it has the built in fuel gauge, generator and oil pressure warning lights, dimmer light, and turn signals.

before i finalize my dash panel, is there anything im missing? do i really need to monitor my cylinder head temps? or is oil temp enough? i know my exhuast setup is not ideal. but i like it. if the motor is not running cool enough im thinking i could make some sheet metal deal to put between the exhaust and the engine cage to dirrect cool air. kinda like the origanil type 3 setup.

also, i need a little help wiring my wiper motor to my steering column. i completly rebuilt my 59 wiper motor. updated it to 12v. regreased the gear box. every peice of the wiper assembly was siezed. its been a project in itself. so i know how to wire the motor, just not how to wire it to my 74 super steering column. any help would be apreciated. all i have is about a foot of the steering column wiper switch harness.

side note.. fixed my brake situation. still running the single circut system. i ended up rebuilding the original 59 varga master cylinder. cleaned it up, honed it out, and put a 20 dollar rebuild kit in it. works good so far. i know i need to go the dual circut route, but im still on a buget. i was really hoping to have this thing ready this summer. maybe next summer.
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im having trouble hooking up my wiper motor to my wiper switch. its a '59 single speed wiper motor and im trying to wire it to a 74 superbeatle wiper switch. the wiper motor has 3 terminals. I ground the wiper body and if I hook 12 volts to terminal 54d the motor turns.

so looking at the images below it looks like I need to hook 12 volts to terminal 54. switched power to terminal 54d. what does terminal 31b do?
why does the wiper need a constant 12 volts and power to 54d?

so then im thinking I need to wire 12 volts to switch terminal 53a.
im lost on the rest.




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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I got it. just need someone to confirm my ideas before I fry my switch or my freshly rebuilt and converted to 12 volt wiper motor.

fused 12v to wiper switch 53a, and wiper motor 54.

wiper switch 53 and 53b (high and low speed) to wiper motor 54d. im thinking both so that my wipers will work at both clicks on the switch.

wiper switch 53e(park) to wiper motor 31b

I was also wondering why my wiper switch has 3 settings. well 4, but one has to be "off". is my switch for a 3 speed wiper? it also has the feature of pulling back on the switch for wiper fluid, but im not using that.
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Kevinwterry
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i got my wiper motor to turn on with wiper switch. it only turns on with the switch at the very upper setting. oh well. it works enough.

here is the hard top im thinking of fixing up. i need to see if the roll bar will fit under it.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top has some promise. Smile
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