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Easy Syncro 2" lift
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Tristar Eric
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:34 pm    Post subject: Easy Syncro 2" lift Reply with quote

Well here it is, the revised 2" lift. Some of you may recall the "budget 2" lift". I have to give credit for the idea to Herman in BC Canada for the basic idea. I had to revise it to work.
http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blogspot.com/

Herman's idea was simple, create a tubular sleeve that slides over the lower portion of the front strut.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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I made a pair only to find that there was no room for the driveshaft. What needed to be done was offset the lower addition to allow room for the driveshaft.

The Syncro in my opinion is limited in how high you can lift it. 2" is the absolute limit without modifying the suspension.

The rear is lifted with a 2" upper spacer and a shock extender.

Before and after pics...

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Shot of the lower front strut showing the offset.

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Rear spacer and shock extender.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the lower shock link idea in the rear, looks easy to build sturdily. Any reason that wouldn't be a good solution for the fronts as well? It would be easy to add a slight offset to the front links to clear the driveshaft if needed.
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Tristar Eric
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I like the lower shock link idea in the rear, looks easy to build sturdily. Any reason that wouldn't be a good solution for the fronts as well? It would be easy to add a slight offset to the front links to clear the driveshaft if needed.


That was version 1, only issue was that you are forced to raise the front a minimum of 2". By adding a section under the strut you can lift as little as you like. I think it looks better also.

Version 1 :
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you mean the first one shown was version 2?

Anyway, great ideas, all of them. Very cool. Gotta keep them in mind when I dig into my Syncro. It looks so lonely up on the stands in my shop. But the engine business beckons....

Thanks, Eric!
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any chance that the rear shock mount might try to pivot and bend the shock's piston rod? I was thinking the rubber shock bushing might give just enough to throw the bottom out of alignment with the top. I'm probably wrong, but just a thought.
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Tristar Eric
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran that same setup on my Bundeswehr Syncro for over 4 years. The extender keeps the shock well lined up. It's the twist that does it.
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dixoncj
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Fast Forward kit with the rear donut. Didn't modify my stock Boge rears to do the job and they seem to be working fine. I thought about the add'l length being an issue but it hasn't seemed to have done much either way. Am I missing something?
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canasync
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installed a self-made version of Tristar Erics "Version 1" lift today. So far I am happy with the results.

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Tristar Eric
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job! wasn't too hard was it?
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is the driving after that?
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canasync
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it was really easy.

I quickly realized why you changed your front extenders to the Herman style spacers. I will be changing to those as well since I would like new springs which would then make the Syncro far too high. Plan right now is to have it about an inch lower once the I get the new lift done and new springs installed, till then I will run with what I got.

As for drivability, the reason that I went for this lift was so that I can keep the factory characteristics such as articulation however due to the new rear wheel position I no longer have the downward travel that I require and if I extend the travel I will run into CV problems which would mean switching over to 930 CV's (not in my budget at this time).

My quest for the best on/off road suspension setup continues.

Tristar Eric, if you have any tips for the version 2 easy lift let me know. What was the diameter of the tube that used to slip over the shocks?
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buspor63
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are those tube extenders slip over or are they tack welded in place? If welded, are there any dangers to be aware of?
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hege
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buspor63 wrote:
Are those tube extenders slip over or are they tack welded in place? If welded, are there any dangers to be aware of?

Monotube shocks usually have 100-200psi pressure, so when welding one of them it's better to dismantle them. Twintube shocks that generally are in cars, don't have a high pressure (5psi? correct me if I'm wrong here, haven't worked on twin tube with pressure) because they don't need the high pressure to work.

Funny that this thread came to life. I extended my front shocks yesterday:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Now when reading this I wish I had lenghtened it more. I only extended the shock 0.7". Embarassed

Did it like one of my friends recommended: Cut the eyelet out, tack weld it together and check alignment and finally then weld like hell and throw it in a bucket of water.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm ok with the tube lengthening idea up front but not so sure about having 2 sets of rubber joints on one end of the shock absorbers, especially at the front as I can picture them going into all sorts of odd positions when under high load plus you are asking a bush (twisting it 90o) to work in an angle it wasn't designed to move in at that range.

If the lower mounting point up front is fixed, then you will run out of articulation on the bottom of the shock absorber as the suspension goes through it's full range of movement.

Not trying to shoot it down in flames... just my opinion. I'm all for new ideas and trying stuff out. Very Happy

MG
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dubbified
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tristar Eric wrote:
Quote:
I like the lower shock link idea in the rear, looks easy to build sturdily. Any reason that wouldn't be a good solution for the fronts as well? It would be easy to add a slight offset to the front links to clear the driveshaft if needed.


That was version 1, only issue was that you are forced to raise the front a minimum of 2". By adding a section under the strut you can lift as little as you like. I think it looks better also.

Version 1 :
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




how are these shackle lift dealies workin out?

I have a set of Konis that I envision this mod for, to get the extra 1.5-2 inches on so they mount right with these GW lifting springs...

Thanks!

PM sent as well,

Al
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