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What electric fuel pump to run on a dualport 1600
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The_juice
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:12 pm    Post subject: What electric fuel pump to run on a dualport 1600 Reply with quote

Any advantange for electric fuel pumps? I see folks running them and figure an advantage over mechanical
Thank you in advance, Anthony Zarco.


Last edited by The_juice on Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:06 pm; edited 3 times in total
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has been covered quite a bit.
Try strolling through one of these threads.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200
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The_juice
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VOLKSWAGNUT wrote:
This has been covered quite a bit.
Try strolling through one of these threads.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200

Thank you for the response, yes I did do a search on the material. However I was curious about what experienced members would recomend on my specific set-up. I should have prefaced the thread, I do understand being a long term member on several other car sites how it goes with repeated subjects! Really im just excited to talk about my car!! haha, cheers. Anthony.
Back to bidness, what do you foks recomend? thanks again.
Anthony
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Michael Fischer
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would try routing the fuel lines properly.

I'd almost bet money on it it will cure your problem. Wink
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60ragtop
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If that is a pic of your engine it appears to be missing important sheet metal. Get all the proper engine tin and it will help with your vapor lock problems. and it looks to be a single port not dual port Wink
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The_juice
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael Fischer wrote:
I would try routing the fuel lines properly.

I'd almost bet money on it it will cure your problem. Wink


I plan on replacing the line I have now with new 5mm line and to run the fuel filter up front with the gas tank itself. Please elaborate on the routing please, I am new to air cooled motors and the routing is currently ran the way the car came.

Anthony
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run an Airtex unbiversal rotary pump designed to put out 5.5 -7 psi. Put the filter and teh pump up front under the tank. Get a holley fuel pressure regulator and a gauge. Set teh pressure to 2.5-3.5 psi.
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dan97019
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a carter rotary pump they do 3- 3.5psi right out of the box Ive been using one for 5 years now it does a consistant 3.25psi.

But 60ragtop is right you need to get all the tins in there and make sure your fuel line is routed away from any exhaust componets.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is a hose type at FLAPS that you can get to Cover the fuel line that holds out the heat

friends swear by it but i havent tried it myself

I have a F.I. and still get bubbles in my tank sometimes when i drive and stop and restart
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vapor lock or engine overheating??? Or engine overheating causing vapor lock??? Please do us a favor and take some good pics of your engine compartment. I see a lot of things that would cause your engine to be running hot, but can't be really sure without viewing some nice clear close-ups of the engine tin work and the engine to body seals. And having your fanshroud fresh air outlets capped off like they are. Are there big holes in the rear breastplate that are not sealed off? Your oil bath needs the hose connected to the port on the generator stand next to the oil cap.
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The_juice
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all for the help! this is exactly why I have posted I will take some better pictures of the bay
Cheers!!
Anthony


Last edited by The_juice on Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:04 pm; edited 3 times in total
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AnthonyZarco wrote:
Thank you all for the help! this is exactly why I have posted, I assumed the pump being housed on the motor would cause it to overheat from some reading I have done. I will take some better pictures of the bay, I have noticed what seems like missing pieces. I will certainly follow the guidance of replacing the missing pieces. I will certainly ask you to please help show me what is missing. For clarification, the car has vaporlocked; I can see the air in the line. I am always interested in lowering the temperature all around
Cheers!!
Anthony

VW designed the pump to be bolted on the engine...they knew what they were doing. Air and bubbles in the fuel filter is perfectly normal, so your problem is probably elsewhere.
I would move the fuel filter out of the engine compartment and get your fuel line away from the heat riser.
Also, if you have heat exchangers, you need fresh air flowing through them from the shroud so you don't cook your heads.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably not what you want to hear, but I yanked out my electrical fuel pump setup due to noise. I went back to mechanical and love it.
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esde
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not having that rear tin lets a LOT of heat rise into the engine compartment. Get that thing back on there, and get some good rubber around it.
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


1 - Raise the fuel inlet pipe well above where it is now. It's basically laying on top of the head where most of the heat is.
2 - Get the fuel filter out of engine bay. I moved mine to just over the left rear heater box and clamped it to the body. Most like just under the tank also.
3 - Nothing to do with heat, but you need to recirculate the gases from inside the engine
4 - Hook up the heat exchange pipes
5 - Install all proper tinware.
6 - Don't make fun of the drawings on the picture.
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uglyvw
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drs1023 covered most of my concerns, but also a couple of minor ones. When rerouting the fuel line, it looks to be all rubber hose, get the bent metal line that goes arount the shroud, helps keep it in place away from the heat. Also after the rear engine tin is in, don't forget the small fresh air hose from the breather to the tin. I know everyone loves their chrome, but black tarboards decipate heat, and the chrome firewall cover does not. There is a reason for the black boards behind and beside the motor. Once everything is right, you can leave the decklid standoffs in the top drawer of your toolbox cause thats what the louvers below the window are for and overheating will not be an issue.
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The_juice
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drs1023, I owe you a beer sir. I appreciate everyone's time and help.\

Last edited by The_juice on Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Appreciate the offer. Pay it forward to the next set of pretty legs you see this summer. I'm a 23 + year tee-totaler.
Good luck.
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The_juice
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again everyone.
I do plan on new plugs/wires. Anyone see anything that's missing or something to improve? Runs very well now, thank you for you're help!


Last edited by The_juice on Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Culito
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huge improvement!! I bet it's running much cooler now.

My fuel filter is in the same location as yours, but I use the all-steel type - I wouldn't want a glass one possibly cracking or shattering.

Nice work.
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